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What Did You Do With Your Rover Today?


AdvRovr

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For mobile use, batt powered impact guns are super convenient. You can run it between trucks and a decent 18v impact gun will yield 300 ft-lbs to remove lugs. I can't think of other things on our trucks will need more than 100ft lbs to undo. Ok, I can... if you were to undo a 20yo bulkhead bolt off a D90/110. :)

I used to swear by the air compressors. Then, I got batt impact guns and never really looked back. I do use the little pan cake compressor to blow dust out from the alternator and air filter after trips.

Edited by lithium1330
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I would also be curious how impact tools work.  The twin compressor in a box is also sold to work with impact wrenches and the like but I haven't actually tested it.  I don't have any preconceptions it will do a great job but might be passable when needed.

I seem to recall trying to run an air-tool off your ARB and getting a big fail.  It wasn't an impact though - body saw maybe?

 

Regardless, the ARB twin is fine for airing up tires but don't think you're going to run any sort of tool off it even with a tank.  Just not going to happen.

 

As for electric impacts, I'm also a big fan.  I have 3, all Milwaukee 18v fuel, from a small driver I use daily for running screws to a 3/8 I use for general working around the truck like pulling skid plates off, to a 1/2" that (at least as of last year) is the most powerful electric impact you can buy.  I think it can do something like 700lbs in reverse though it's advertised as 1100 or something ridiculous.

 

By the same token, I don't carry any of them in the Rover.  Too much wasted space when I know a basic ratchet or breaker bar will ALWAYS work.

 

Back to compressors, I don't think you can beat the Viair dual 400C for $300.  Check the cfm@pressure - there are faster 12v compressors out there but at 3x the price.  These are only officially rated at 30% duty cycle but I've aired up 8+ tires back to back w/o problem.

 http://www.viaircorp.com/dual400C.html

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...a decent 18v impact gun will yield 300 ft-lbs to remove lugs. I can't think of other things on our trucks will need more than 100ft lbs to undo....

You must have better luck than I...

 

...I have a 600 ft-lb impact gun I run off a 26 gallon air tank, and run into things that are too stuck for the gun on a regular basis. 

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@DHappel  didn't you win a gift cert towards a pump that does 100% duty cycle?

I remember the mfgr claims you can run impacts off their pump... 

I did, though I haven't actually bought one yet.  They do offer 100% pumps but the volume (speed) is lower than the Viair dual 400 I have in the LR3.  And like I said, I've never had a duty cycle issue with the Viair except one time I tried to do 3 trucks back to back to back - I overheated after the 10th tire and had to cool the pumps off.

 

You must have better luck than I...

 

...I have a 600 ft-lb impact gun I run off a 26 gallon air tank, and run into things that are too stuck for the gun on a regular basis. 

I know my Milwaukee 1/2" will pull the 300ft/lb+ CV joint nuts off the LR3 with no problem, while my (well reviewed) HF Earthquake gun won't.  I was running it at like 150 psi but it was through about 100' of hose so there would be a pressure drop.

 

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I, too, am skeptical on some of the high torque number claims.

To be fair though, I've only had HF "600ft-lb" impact air gun that I got for $40-some/$50 or whatever they cost after 20% off coupon. 

 

For the bulkhead nut mentioned, I used my dewalt 18v 1/2" impact (300ft-lbs) to undo the nut to install a slider. 

The gun didn't just zip the thing off... it took a multiple 30sec bursts... i felt i sat there for a 5-10min or so before the nut finally got loose. 

That, and plenty of liquid wrench soaking for multiple days. On nuts that I feel may be stuck, I always soak them everyday for 3 to 4 days leading up to the job. 

 

I have the Dewalt DW059K 1/2" impact wrench 300ft-lbs for the bigger job, and the smaller Dewalt impact driver (forgot model #) w/ 100ft-lbs for tight spaces and less torqued down stuff. Both run of the same 18v battery type. 

 

Talking about it so much, I think I'm gonna take the impact to undo & re-do all the lug nuts on the truck - just the fun of it. :D 

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BTW, don't forget that if you run an extension on an impact (air or electric) you'll get waaaaay less power out of it due to the rotational flex of the extension.  Just today I was taking my sliders off using my 3/8 impact and with a 6" extension it wouldn't break loose a bolt that was probably no more than 50 ft-lbs.  W/O the extension it had no problem with it.

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I, too, am skeptical on some of the high torque number claims.

To be fair though, I've only had HF "600ft-lb" impact air gun that I got for $40-some/$50 or whatever they cost after 20% off coupon. 

 

If you want to get a good idea of the real power of a given tool, check out the Real Tool Reviews channel on Youtube.  He actually has the testing gear to verify or disprove claims.

 

FWIW, the HF 'earthquake' impact is pretty well regarded.  I have one but don't use it since I don't like using air when I can use battery.  Of course it's only as good as the compressor and air lines pushing it.

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Last weekend I pulled off all my armor, cleaned and painted it, and re-installed.  Also cleaned up some surface rust that was starting to show up on suspension/chassis components from Soda Lake.  And replaced the compressor air valve block in an effort to stop my tank from bleeding down.  A vain effort it would seem.

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Last weekend I pulled off all my armor, cleaned and painted it, and re-installed.  Also cleaned up some surface rust that was starting to show up on suspension/chassis components from Soda Lake.  And replaced the compressor air valve block in an effort to stop my tank from bleeding down.  A vain effort it would seem.

 

Hi Don,

 

If the valve isn't the source of the leak, what else could it be?

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Hi Don,

 

If the valve isn't the source of the leak, what else could it be?

Well, that's the question isn't it? Most likely candidate would be a fitting. I doubt. Dry much the tank or a line actually have a hole; that's uncommon and the leak is too slow.
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Scored some 50% off parts today at pick n pull. Got a replacement front bumper for the p38 which was damaged by the deer my wife gave a love tap to. Had to make quite a run for it as it seams the hse model with the painted lower is a rare beast. Also snagged a few other odds and ends while I was in there. Met a nice fella who was looking for some p38 door parts. Told him about the club and directed him to RoverWare for some parts he was looking for. Maybe we will see him around.
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  • 2 weeks later...

Finally got around to using Teds coolant pressure tester. Found head gasket leak on the P38. Parts on order from the helpful guys at RoverWare.us

Which ones do you find helpful?  I find everytime I call I get get some old ornery cuss with a funny accent and bad attitude.

 

:P

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With help of nengelbrecht6, replaced the rear brake pads, flushed brakes and added 1" of spacers to the passenger-side rear suspension... B/c for reason of it's a Land Rover, that corner of truck sat 1" lower (19" fender to center hub) than the other 3 (20"). 

 

Still have a coolant leak somewhere. That will need to take to a shop, I think. 

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Changed the plugs and wires on the D1. Waiting on the new fan clutch and fan to arrive then changing that. Also ordered a new rear drive shaft flange kit as I was having issues with my used version.
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