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What Did You Do With Your Rover Today?


AdvRovr

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Head Gasket replacement complete.   So far so good.  Ran it in the driveway for a while last night and not a visible drop.  All in all not a terrible job.  Had a couple of setbacks that cost me some time.  The biggest three were 1. installing the exhaust manifold gaskets upside down which fit but wouldn't allow the install of the new spark plugs (pretty sure I did the same thing on my disco at one point)  2. installing the pulg wires on the coil upside down (owners manual diagram isn't very helpful but the RAVE is significantly better) 3. breaking a bolt for the alternate bracket with almost no torque at all (one handed with a stubby wrench).  Other than that all went pretty well.  I could probably shave a bunch of hours off if I ever had to do it again.  (Please God, don't make me do this again on this car)  

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New front rotors and pads - went with pagid high carbon rotors from rock auto and ebc ultimate pads from Atlantic British - so far very good ....

I'm about ready to do brakes on the LR3 again and have been debating about what to go with this time myself.

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I would say the EBC are pretty close to stock from a brake feel point of view - I did not notice a significant difference yet - but I am also not very hard on the brakes. I used Akebonos on my daughter's BMW - they have less initial bite cold - but perform well warm - and leave almost no black dust on the RIMs if that is critical to you. They also seem to wear very well - still almost like new after 30K miles .... (main reason I went with EBC was because i had to use the Atlantic certificate that was about to expire). I think EBC also has a heavier duty pad that gets good reviews - made in UK factory where I went to college and close to JLR ... StopTech from RockAuto might also be an interesting (and less expensive) option - I have a set of rear pads I'm going to put on this weekend - but no experience yet with those ....

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I ordered SBC slotted and dimpled rotors and 6000 series green pads. I've got those and a bunch of other bits for the rear coming so the project should start next weekend.

 

 

 

 

Unless something _else_ happens next weekend. Stay tuned for more info.

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Did rear pads today - decided to leave rotors to avoid playing with EPB ... rotors look ok and measured at close to 20mm. Used powerstop z31 ceramic pads - came in nice kit with new spring clips. Pads are thermally scorched to help bed in. Easy job. ( used harbor freight caliper compressor - 15mm wrench, 13mm socket and torque wrench ) so far brakes smoothly.

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I think that just helps sell them.  The first time you put the brakes on at the end of an off-ramp, and go from 65mph to zero, I'm pretty certain you'll scorch them a lot more than they did at the factory ....

 

Graeme

Yeah - you are probably right - but they are American made, ceramic, good reviews on other platforms - so I wanted to try - and price is very good too ... Let's see after 1k miles how they are doing ... 

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Yeah - you are probably right - but they are American made, ceramic, good reviews on other platforms - so I wanted to try - and price is very good too ... Let's see after 1k miles how they are doing ... 

 

Well, maybe the Chinese have worked the Japan scam ....

 

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Usa,_%C5%8Cita

 

Regards,

 

Graeme

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I'm sure it said "Mrade in amelica" on the box .... now I have to pay the trump border tax too ?

No, it said made in China, just in very small print and that was hard to see under the big American flag graphic and the 'US Brake Pad Company' name.  

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Got the front of the P38 put back together tonight. I had to remove the front carpet because of a heater core leak that soaked the passenger side footwell. The leak was slow and I think it had been going for a while because the coolant that squeezed out of the carpet was real thick like warm maple syrup. Took hours to get it out of the carpet and pad and three days for it to dry. To get the carpet out the center consol, seats, door sills, kick panels and a few other things had to come out. Took me about 3 1/2 hours to put it all back together. Frustratingly, I did end up with two extra screws. And for the life of me can't figure out where they go.
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Got the front of the P38 put back together tonight. I had to remove the front carpet because of a heater core leak that soaked the passenger side footwell. The leak was slow and I think it had been going for a while because the coolant that squeezed out of the carpet was real thick like warm maple syrup. Took hours to get it out of the carpet and pad and three days for it to dry. To get the carpet out the center consol, seats, door sills, kick panels and a few other things had to come out. Took me about 3 1/2 hours to put it all back together. Frustratingly, I did end up with two extra screws. And for the life of me can't figure out where they go.

Just two!! Much better than I am...I probably would have just left it out indefinitely.
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Got the front of the P38 put back together tonight. I had to remove the front carpet because of a heater core leak that soaked the passenger side footwell. The leak was slow and I think it had been going for a while because the coolant that squeezed out of the carpet was real thick like warm maple syrup. Took hours to get it out of the carpet and pad and three days for it to dry. To get the carpet out the center consol, seats, door sills, kick panels and a few other things had to come out. Took me about 3 1/2 hours to put it all back together. Frustratingly, I did end up with two extra screws. And for the life of me can't figure out where they go.

 

Congratulations on the cleanup.  I've heard many horrors of the leaking/cracked heater core -- are the replacements OEM or has someone improved the design to hopefully prevent it from happening again?

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The stock version uses rigid pipes, an o-ring and plastic tanks on the core.  Justin showed me that with a little modification to the inside of the heater housing you can use an audi heater core and run rubber hoses.  So that's what I did a while back.  Unfortunately the heater core i purchased had a small casting flaw in the outlet pipe which just happened to be right under the body of the hose clamp.  drip, drip, drip 

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The stock version uses rigid pipes, an o-ring and plastic tanks on the core.  Justin showed me that with a little modification to the inside of the heater housing you can use an audi heater core and run rubber hoses.  So that's what I did a while back.  Unfortunately the heater core i purchased had a small casting flaw in the outlet pipe which just happened to be right under the body of the hose clamp.  drip, drip, drip 

Just did a heater core on my 95 RRC (same as D1 & D2)  considered using the Audi core but ended up doing it the total PITA way and removed the entire dash!  those fixed pipes are effing stupid!  had to grind of the rear bracket to heater box as it was screwed on from the back... refused to break the seal for the A/c so left it alone.  I am convinced Rover purposefully does this to create more leaks WTF with the seals too @ the core.  anyway all done now and I have heat after not having it for 6 years.

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Fan clutch arrived so picked up the fan wrench and busted that thing off. Started to reassemble and the new fan is thinner than the old so I need to grab washers.

 

Moved on to my rear flange replacement. Removed the drive shaft without issue but then realized I have the breaker pipe back to neighbor.

 

So hopefully this weekend I'll close these out.

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Fan clutch arrived so picked up the fan wrench and busted that thing off. Started to reassemble and the new fan is thinner than the old so I need to grab washers.

 

Moved on to my rear flange replacement. Removed the drive shaft without issue but then realized I have the breaker pipe back to neighbor.

 

So hopefully this weekend I'll close these out.

I need to check this thing out.  I haven't seen it in ages - I still think of it as nearly stock.

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