What Did You Do With Your Rover Today?

[SLOHybrid]

So you need to tap a few places with a hammer and your done. 15 minute job.

yep!  Like Nick did

[ndamico]

If i were going to go 37 i would have done it this time around. I didnt want to regear it again. My 4.12s are about perfect with the 35s. Maybe ill save the bigger tires for a defender....

[Guest Pedram]

Did I just hear the "D" word?

[SLOHybrid]

Nick... stay with LWB it is way better than a Defender

[Jethro]

Ordered my 3" lift kit for the D1.

[Guest Pedram]

Ordered my 3" lift kit for the D1.

I would also recommend some steering upgrades if you go that route. I haven't seen your rig yet. Sounds like your ready for some fun trails.

[Timbo]

 

For the first weekend in many - absolutely nothing!

 

Did spend a lot of money on a new house though - with a garage that got 12' ceilings - I see shop air and a lift in my future!

[DHappel]

For the first weekend in many - absolutely nothing!

 

Did spend a lot of money on a new house though - with a garage that got 12' ceilings - I see shop air and a lift in my future!

Would you like some links to lift companies....

 

My advice - whatever brand you go with spend a few hundred extra and go bigger than you think you'll need.  I'm looking at 9 or 10,000lb untis myself.

 

12' ceilings in a residential garage?  How did you find that?

Edited June 13, 2016 by DHappel

[Timbo]

Would you like some links to lift companies....

 

My advice - whatever brand you go with spend a few hundred extra and go bigger than you think you'll need. I'm looking at 9 or 10,000lb untis myself.

 

12' ceilings in a residential garage? How did you find that?

With great difficulty! The house we got has an 3 car garage with one of them an extra tall door for RV's, but all 3 have the same hight ceiling once inside.r. Lucy likes to think that she had the say on the choice of this one - but we all know the truth!ðŸ˜

 

Was dong a bit of reserch seems the 4 post are a little easier and have a plus to being movable- I could imagine myself having some quite Interesting balance issues with a 2 post, plus you have to bolt it down and the floor has to be strong enough. Was looking at the bendpak hd9 with the optional bridge jack.

Edited June 13, 2016 by Timbo

[AdvRovr]

I have access to a 2-post via a friend and I don't care for it at all. Even bolted to a ridiculously thick, high-pressure warehouse slab it still has a lot of flex in it and I never feel very comfortable under the vehicle. Plus, having a lift for simple things like fluid changes would be nice, and the time/effort to properly position the vehicle on a 2-post lift isn't worth it for those simple jobs.

 

The solution I decided on for my dream garage is a 4-post lift with a pair of bridge jacks that would still let me get all 4 wheels off the ground if needed. 

[DHappel]

This deserves it's own thread.

 

Chad, what brand is the 2-post you're using?  I assume it's a decent quality as it's being used by a professional shop.

 

There is no question a 4-post is faster and easier to use but it's more limited.  Want to lift a body off?  Not going to do that on a 4-post.  Want to change a tire?  You'll need additional equipment like bridges and jacks.  Access to the entire underbody is more limited by the 18-20" wide ramps so suspension work and the like is tougher.

 

On the other hand you don't need to worry about the slab (you may need to cut out and re-pour the area where you're going to install a 2-post if your slab isn't designed for it).  Heck, some 4-posts can even be moved around with a car on them.  And for simple maintenance jobs like changing oil its just point and shoot simple. And it's generally safer since you don't need to worry about balancing the car on it.

 

I'm planning to go with a 2-post to start and may eventually add a 2nd 4 post later.  The idea is I could roll the 4-post outside to get under the truck and clean it up!

[AdvRovr]

It's a Challenger lift. It's not repair-shop grade as they aren't a repair shop, it's just used for R&D occasionally. But it's in a warehouse on a thick, high-pressure slab.

 

And yes, for a 4 post, I would want a pair of bridge jacks on it.

 

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Edited June 14, 2016 by AdvRovr

[DHappel]

Replaced the steering rack on the LR3 today.

 

Not too bad a job, but did take some fiddling to actually get it out and the new one back in place.

 

The only bad part was after hooking the new one up I got carried away triple checking things on the rack prior to starting the truck to bleed the power steering.  When I started it, a geyser of oil shot out.  Oops...I sort of forgot I had removed the oil filter to make room to get the rack out.  You'd be surprised how far and how much oil can shoot out of a Rover motor in only a few seconds.  Oiled down Hello Kitty that was parked on the other side of the driveway.  And for pervs among you, that's not as interesting as it sounds.

[JFuller]

Found out that you wouldn't use all the screws that the flexi-flare kit includes when you install said flares. If you do, and you install them in the location you're supposed to, one of the screws will go right through your fuel filler neck. And you probably won't notice for quite a while and right before a wheeling trip. Ugh

[AdvRovr]

Yikes. No bueno. 

 

I spent last night following Brenton's video for an end-to-end splice on my winch line. Kudos to those of you who find the process "easy" - I found it time consuming and frustrating (hint, I was able to replace the starter on my brother's 4Runner in less time). Oh well, it's done now and seemed quite solid.

[DHappel]

Today I planned to replace the only orriginal half shaft (passenger front) left on my LR3.  Ordered one from Lucky8 (OEM) and had it here ready to go.  Only to find out they forgot to send the stub axle nut and this being an updated part, the old nut doesn't fit.  Funny, you'd think they'd know this given I ran into exactly the same issue last year when I replaced the other side....

 

So instead I changed the oil, changed the air filter, made a new antenna mount (old one was bending in trees too easily) dropped my armor to trim the frame horns back a bit more, and while the armor was off went ahead and gave it a coat of paint.  Since I'm actually going to be home the next couple nights, I'll change the cabin air filter and hopefully get that missing nut overnighted out so I can go ahead and replace the half shaft, then I'll re-install the armor and antenna.

[Timbo]

 

Finally got new tires cooper discoverer at3 LT 245/70's

 

Really look the part.

[JFuller]

Yesterday was a big rover day. Started off with a trip to pick n pull and paid my respects to 4 discoveries and 2 P38's who were donating their remains so mine can soldier on. There was a couple of things I was after, most imporatantly an alternator. To replace the one that took a dump on me while on my way home from Thursday nights drip in the driveway. Thanks Ted for making sure I got home. I found a nearly new looking alternator on a gold 97 that had just shy of 300,000 mile. The engine compartment looked cleaner than I had ever seen and the interior was impeccable. Seemed a shame that it ended up like that. And for $13 the alternator was a steal. I also grabbed a side marker light and bulb to replace the one I crushed on the rubicon. Then off to the P38's as the website showed one had a stock roof rack that I wanted. But alas I was too late and some other lucky sole walked away with it for a mere $30.

 

Back at the house the replacement alternator was installed and the disco was back in business again. Then on to the P38. I installed the front drive shaft that I had rebuilt the night before, and if you know anything about front drive shafts on a P38 you're glad it wasn't you doing the job. Then I turned my attention to the door handles on the P38. I don't know if the D2's have the same problem (because their handles look similar) but on the P38 they are known for wearing out and being difficult to open and sticky. I had recently ordered a set replacement "guts" for the driver and passenger doors as they were both worn. I purchased them through RoverWare for a great price $6 per side and had great customer service. I pulled the handles off, which involves pulling the door panel and then removing one screw. After removing them it was clear that guts and the handle both needed replacement. Fortunately I had pulled a couple of rear handles from a pick and pull truck a few months back because they were in great shape. Because honestly how often do the rear doors get opened compared to the fronts. The "guts" are held in place by a roll pin that would be impossible to remove on its own. But the RoverWares kit comes with a new one! I found it convenient to use a pair of dykes and cut the old guts into enough pieces that it came out and the roll pin was exposed and easily removed by with some pliers. Getting it all back together is an exercise in dexterity but not terribly difficult. Added some "Lube" to the repaired parts and reinstalled. First one took me an hour and the second one was about half that time. And now the handles operate flawlessly. Definitely a recommended project if yours need it.

Edited July 18, 2016 by JFuller

[AdvRovr]

Nice! By the way, I have a P38 factory rack if you're interested. I have more in it than $30, but I could do $50.

 

My door handles are in sad shape too.

 

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[GraemeWare]

Yesterday was a big rover day. Started off with a trip to pick n pull and paid my respects to 4 discoveries and 2 P38's who were donating their remains so mine can soldier on. There was a couple of things I was after, most imporatantly an alternator. To replace the one that took a dump on me while on my way home from Thursday nights drip in the driveway. Thanks Ted for making sure I got home. I found a nearly new looking alternator on a gold 97 that had just shy of 300,000 mile. The engine compartment looked cleaner than I had ever seen and the interior was impeccable. Seemed a shame that it ended up like that. And for $13 the alternator was a steal. I also grabbed a side marker light and bulb to replace the one I crushed on the rubicon. Then off to the P38's as the website showed one had a stock roof rack that I wanted. But alas I was too late and some other lucky sole walked away with it for a mere $30.

 

.... Then I turned my attention to the door handles on the P38. I don't know if the D2's have the same problem (because their handles look similar) but on the P38 they are known for wearing out and being difficult to open and sticky. I had recently ordered a set replacement "guts" for the driver and passenger doors as they were both worn. I purchased them through GraemeWare for a great price $6 per side and had great customer service. I pulled the handles off, which involves pulling the door panel and then removing one screw. After removing them it was clear that guts and the handle both needed replacement. Fortunately I had pulled a couple of rear handles from a pick and pull truck a few months back because they were in great shape. Because honestly how often do the rear doors get opened compared to the fronts. The "guts" are held in place by a roll pin that would be impossible to remove on its own. But the GrameWares kit comes with a new one! I found it convenient to use a pair of dykes and cut the old guts into enough pieces that it came out and the roll pin was exposed and easily removed by with some pliers. Getting it all back together is an exercise in dexterity but not terribly difficult. Added some "Lube" to the repaired parts and reinstalled. First one took me an hour and the second one was about half that time. And now the handles operate flawlessly. Definitely a recommended project if yours need it.

 

Jason,

 

You must mean these kits from RoverWare.US

 

http://www.roverware.us/door-handle-cam-kit-kit-door-safe-stc3063-left-front/

http://www.roverware.us/door-handle-cam-kit-kit-door-safe-stc3064-right-front/

 

Regards,

 

Graeme

[DHappel]

Since we cancelled the eastern Sierra run I spent the weekend tinkering.

 

Yesterday I replaced the front right strut.  I still had my orriginal in it from last year when I broke the Arrnott on the trail.  I've had a new version of the Arrnott sitting here waiting to go in and I noticed recently that my stock 130K mile part was over-extending on full droop letting the upper arm rub against the aluminum bag sleeve.  Given enough time that would eventually rub through the aluminum then the air bag would go very soon after.

 

I also received the new half-shaft nut I'd been waiting on so I put the new shaft in that same right front.  

 

And for good measure I swapped out my nearly new (1000-ish miles) EBC 7000-series green stuff pad for Hawk pads.  The EBCs had been a big dissapointment both in stopping power (no better than stock it seemed) and mostly in noise as they squealed like crazy when warm.  Hopefully the Hawks will do better.

 

Today I've been installing my roof rack flooring which I expected to be a quick and easy thing but I've ended up re-doing all my mounts for axe, shovel, tent, Road Shower, and adding a couple extra tie downs for anything random to be carried in the future.  It will be much harder to add more after the flooring is mounted so I figured I should go ahead and put them all in now.  I'm still waiting on some paint to dry before finishing this project.

 

Oh, and I replaced the cabin air filter.

[El Solis]

Met a guy from Overland Bound who made me a table for my window guard. Painted them and installed it today. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160718/bcd118b9624c210f275c4f2e046a9173.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160718/931b958129d2eec04d85ad7a1c35d28d.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160718/23c3f80588f399a7a1d41b3d177a7890.jpg

[JFuller]

Jason,

 

You must mean these kits from RoverWare.US

 

http://www.roverware.us/door-handle-cam-kit-kit-door-safe-stc3063-left-front/

http://www.roverware.us/door-handle-cam-kit-kit-door-safe-stc3064-right-front/

 

Regards,

 

Graeme

. Yup. Exactly. Get yours before they sell out. You won't regret it.

[JFuller]

Nice! By the way, I have a P38 factory rack if you're interested. I have more in it than $30, but I could do $50.

My door handles are in sad shape too.

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chad. Is it like this?

 

https://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http%3A%2F%2F2.bp.blogspot.com%2F-L1YMjiYrmNQ%2FTbF-tJ_FDPI%2FAAAAAAAAAdQ%2FkNnZNoevh0M%2Fs1600%2F32.JPG&imgrefurl=http%3A%2F%2Frangeroverworld.blogspot.com%2F2011%2F04%2Frange-rover-p38-accesesories.html&docid=eYH_8s19ddU_2M&tbnid=R3wCcDmBVHEp_M%3A&w=1600&h=737&hl=en&client=safari&bih=672&biw=1024&ved=0ahUKEwj1kcmTk_zNAhWJ4iYKHeLTDB0QMwhSKBcwFw&iact=mrc&uact=8

[AdvRovr]

chad. Is it like this?

 

https://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http%3A%2F%2F2.bp.blogspot.com%2F-L1YMjiYrmNQ%2FTbF-tJ_FDPI%2FAAAAAAAAAdQ%2FkNnZNoevh0M%2Fs1600%2F32.JPG&imgrefurl=http%3A%2F%2Frangeroverworld.blogspot.com%2F2011%2F04%2Frange-rover-p38-accesesories.html&docid=eYH_8s19ddU_2M&tbnid=R3wCcDmBVHEp_M%3A&w=1600&h=737&hl=en&client=safari&bih=672&biw=1024&ved=0ahUKEwj1kcmTk_zNAhWJ4iYKHeLTDB0QMwhSKBcwFw&iact=mrc&uact=8

Yep. Also I'll be in Sac Thursday if you want to meet up. Oh, I also have Thule bars with ski racks instead, depending on what you're looking to do. Those are $100. Pics later.

 

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