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What Did You Do With Your Rover Today?


AdvRovr

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Last weekend we took a bachalor trip across rubicon for Julia's brother in law. We swam every chance we could, smoked too many cigars, drank too much whisky, and ate too much red meat. At the springs we caught crawdads and had a boil then watched the meteorshower. Shockingly the guacamoland rover was the only truck in our group to not suffer a mechanical break, I managed to only cut a tire and that was probably due to being overloaded with beer. All in all a great weekend and it gets me that much more excited for rovicon. 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Cris stopped by last weekend and we got his awning bolted up. 

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He also helped throw some firring strips down on the barn... which may very likely will be stuffed with rovers and or rover projects in the future. Now to find some roll doors....

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  • 1 month later...
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...

Last few weekends have been dedicated to catching up with Snowflake's maintenance and preparing for the next trip. : 0

  1. Both front and rear differential fluid changed
  2. Oil changed
  3. Engine mounts changed
  4. The upper ball joint was changed: 
  5. Steering wheel re-aligned. 
  6. Driver's door handle efforts adjusted.
  7. Also added a 1" spring spacer to the rear (thanks Robert!) - even after extending the extended bump stops, Snowflake could bottom out in the fender well during some hill climbs. Originally they were the easy to machine "rounds" with just two holes in them. To reduce a bit of mass, I had them milled down to match the footprint of the perches on the axle.
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  8. lastly, to go along with the 1" spacer, I CAD'd up a extended brake line and electrical axle bracket to raise the hard lines up 30mm.
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Man, it's been too long since I made time to work on anything!

But couple projects knocked out... always takes more time than you think .

First was removing the oil cooler lines from the LS and placing a cap over it.

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Gives more room for exhaust so that's good.

Next was the front grill, removing the old radiator support pieces so I will have room for a new larger radiator.

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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...

We did an impromptu wheeling in the new year camping trip. Just a quick run into dog valley which is about 15 min from reno. Temps were down in the 20s overnight but with a good fire and beer blanket there was no issues. The next morning we found the deep 1 inch of hard core snow wheeling to make the trip complete.

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On 1/3/2024 at 8:20 PM, Tyler Mattson said:

We did an impromptu wheeling in the new year camping trip. Just a quick run into dog valley which is about 15 min from reno. Temps were down in the 20s overnight but with a good fire and beer blanket there was no issues. The next morning we found the deep 1 inch of hard core snow wheeling to make the trip complete.

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Cooper is looking  great in the driver seat! Did Lola work the pedals??? : )

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  • 1 month later...

@SDS came over on Friday and we welded up his front diff guard for the D2. 

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Then on Saturday after working on rebuilding the water tank roof, @yokrieger used the D1 to pull the skidsteer; acting as added horsepower and ballast as we pulled fallen trees up the mountainside for firewood processing.

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1 hour ago, Mr.BlueSky said:

@SDS came over on Friday and we welded up his front diff guard for the D2. 

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Then on Saturday after working on rebuilding the water tank roof, @yokrieger used the D1 to pull the skidsteer; acting as added horsepower and ballast as we pulled fallen trees up the mountainside for firewood processing.

And here is the finished product. Now I’m ready for the hardest snow 😉

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  • 3 weeks later...

In preparation for the upcoming long haul trips I've begun to burn down the issue list on Snowflake. 

The easy ones:

  • Cleaned out the truck and removed the old V1 sleeping platform (now Obsolete - Thanks Henry!)
  • Removed the original 2nd row fridge mount and re-installed the 40% seat
  • Took a bunch of measurements for the new fridge to be installed in the rear.
  • Ordered fridge slides.
  • Installed missing screw on driver side cup holder. 
  • Tightened up the very annoying Safari Gard rear bumper (again).
  • Oil & Filter Change (20W50 VR1 w high zinc content)
  • Reconditioning the attachments on the 3rd brake light

The not so easy...

When we got back from the Shaver Lake Snow Run I unloaded, and backed it up and out of the way. Out of the way means up on slight hill with the nose pointed downward. 

A few days go by and I go to start it, we've got spark, and air but no fire. Considered for a bit that it may that the fuel can't be reached by the pickup due to parking angle and low fuel. 

The next day I added about 10 gallons of fuel, same result. 

Fast forward to today. Johann and I pulled Snowflake down to the asphalt and maneuvered the nose into the garage with a gentle push from the skid steer (the spare tire coming in handy as a bucket bumper). Out of the rain we begin going through the "no-start" electrical tests in the workshop manual. 

Tests 1-4 are a lot of multimeter work. Wired connections pass. The coil... mostly passes. There was a brief moment where there was doubt, but a second test showed the coil was good. Test 5 now requires access to the distributor pickup. On many of Classic motor configurations, you are unable to access the port without removing the entire distributor as the spark amplifier cannot be removed in-situ.

Before I tore into this, first, I made a jumper between the coil and spark amplifier to rule out a connection issue. No start. Remove the jumper.

As a last resort, I pulled the new spare coil and hooked it up. START!

Interesting... so it must have been the coil we think. 

Return everything to the original state as we were going to video-document going through the test procedures as the internet was fraught with mis-information and no good videos of these tests being ran in order. Start filming the symptoms... but Snowflake was camera shy and FIRED RIGHT UP...

Spent the next hour jiggling connections, re-testing, examining connections and wiring...  We could not re-create the issue. So, I'll just chalk this one up to Rovers being Rovers and the new coil is back in the trail spares kit until next time...

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3 hours ago, yokrieger said:

Getting home the other day had a clunking noise…so today pulled the drain plug from the transfer case…look what I found…will JB Weld fix this?

Absolutely - 50% gear oil, 50% JB weld. A formula so good it should be patented as  "FormaTooth *TM"  /s

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18 hours ago, yokrieger said:

Getting home the other day had a clunking noise…so today pulled the drain plug from the transfer case…look what I found…will JB Weld fix this?

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I forgot to mention this is from the LT230 in the D1...any suggestions...get a questionable one from Pick-n-Pull, a rebuilt one or rebuild current T-Box...

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6 hours ago, yokrieger said:

I forgot to mention this is from the LT230 in the D1...any suggestions...get a questionable one from Pick-n-Pull, a rebuilt one or rebuild current T-Box...

 

Are those metal chucks or rubber?  

If you got time id rebuild it at the same time you can upgrade it to a HD cross pin or even a atb .Rebuild kits are around 135 plus shipping from Ashcroft .If you need it done im sure Tim Scully could do it or Matt Jackson down is paso does good work. 

Edited by lutz
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2 hours ago, lutz said:

 

Are those metal chucks or rubber?  

If you got time id rebuild it at the same time you can upgrade it to a HD cross pin or even a atb .Rebuild kits are around 135 plus shipping from Ashcroft .If you need it done im sure Tim Scully could do it or Matt Jackson down is paso does good work. 

This is my suggestions,  used ones are around $300 and you really won't know what you have and it will likely leak so you'll be wanting to at the least a seal refresh.  

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13 hours ago, lutz said:

 

Are those metal chucks or rubber?  

If you got time id rebuild it at the same time you can upgrade it to a HD cross pin or even a atb .Rebuild kits are around 135 plus shipping from Ashcroft .If you need it done im sure Tim Scully could do it or Matt Jackson down is paso does good work. 

Those are metal, they were stuck to the magnet.   Who knows how may more are in the T-box.

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16 hours ago, lutz said:

 

Are those metal chucks or rubber?  

If you got time id rebuild it at the same time you can upgrade it to a HD cross pin or even a atb .Rebuild kits are around 135 plus shipping from Ashcroft .If you need it done im sure Tim Scully could do it or Matt Jackson down is paso does good work. 

Would it be worth changing the ratio if it needs to be rebuilt or keep it currently stock?

 

Side question, would the people switch to a Borg Warner over the LT230? Not sure if thats even possible in a D1

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3 minutes ago, El Chapomint said:

Would it be worth changing the ratio if it needs to be rebuilt or keep it currently stock?

 

Side question, would the people switch to a Borg Warner over the LT230? Not sure if thats even possible in a D1

The BW case could be installed, they came passenger drop on RRC’s so they would fit fine. They are not locking like the LT230 so most people go the other direction and swap the LT230 in place of the BW. If the vehicle has aspirations on tougher off-roading then the LT230 would probably be preferred. Although I have heard of some people liking the limited slip BW case over the LT230 with selectable lockers since it’s gives a little less transmission wind and the ability to totally lock up the axles mitigates the issues of not having a locking tcase 

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15 minutes ago, Elherbinator said:

The BW case could be installed, they came passenger drop on RRC’s so they would fit fine. They are not locking like the LT230 so most people go the other direction and swap the LT230 in place of the BW. If the vehicle has aspirations on tougher off-roading then the LT230 would probably be preferred. Although I have heard of some people liking the limited slip BW case over the LT230 with selectable lockers since it’s gives a little less transmission wind and the ability to totally lock up the axles mitigates the issues of not having a locking tcase 

If you switch to the BW you will need new drive shafts as the lengths won't directly fit so becomes an added cost.

On the ratios,  D1 comes with 1.2 high range and stock 3.32 low.  You obviously can change both and I even have a 1:00 high range if you wanted to go that direction. Heck could probably sell you the TCase and seal kit I have with it.

It would give more mileage on flat ground but be a little more gutless on mountain climbs like up I80.

So there is a 1.4 and 1.6 option from the defenders which will allow it to have more gusto around town and kill some mileage.  Those are also cross-cut gears so louder, some early D1s had the 1.4 stock.

The more interesting is the low-range gears,  you can get 30% reduction which is 4.3:1, and 50% which is a 5:1.  Don's D1 has the 30% and seems ideal with the automatic trans.  I believe Mike Foster's D90 w/ manual has the 50% and definitely helps there.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Super behind on this thread... : (... 

Back on Friday of last week, the winds finally won and finished what the winter storms started. The driveway tree came down mid-trunk.

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Johann, using his brute strength carried it up the driveway while I spotted him with the LR3...

We used the skid steer for the remaining cleanup and afterwards did a flex check.

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Rad flex bruh. 

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