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What Did You Do With Your Rover Today?


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18 hours ago, SLOHybrid said:

WHAT was wrong with the module??  never needed to replace one in all my years other than converting one to a non ABS servo style.  The pump switch usually fails... just blead the brakes on my LWB over the weekend and forgot what a PITA it was 11 bleeder screws but boy they now feel great.  BTW I too carry a spare ABS pump always on trips.  that is kinda why I wanted to know what other Classic's were coming so we could compare spares.

 

It is a long silly story - maybe I will start a classic ABS thread. : ). 

For now, I will save it for around the campfire in Mojave!

Yes, I will be bringing a spare ABS pump as well.

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10 minutes ago, astateofmike said:

@Mr.BlueSky and @SLOHybrid....

 

What's ABS?  My 1988 has like less bleed screws than 11 for sure :)

You are lucky ; ).

ABS was introduced in 1990 (except Hunter Models). Land Rover wanted to be the first to market with a ABS system for a Permanent 4WD... they achieved it and did a great making a system that is in my honest opinion still one of the most responsive and effective 4WD braking systems I have experienced. (****when it works****).

Of course being complex and silly it has multiple failure modes ; )

If I recall correctly the actual bleed screw count is 12 (for 1990 - changed again in 1993 when the accumulator bleeder was replaced with another brake pipe to module):

  • 3x Front LH Caliper
  • 3x Front RH Caliper
  • 1x Rear LH Caliper
  • 1x Rear RH Caliper
  • 1x ABS Pump
  • 1x Accumulator
  • 2x Brake Module
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1 minute ago, Mr.BlueSky said:

You are lucky ; ).

ABS was introduced in 1990 (except Hunter Models). Land Rover ......

I had a 1995 LWB and a 2001 D2 in my tenure.

I have a complaint now about the forums that needs addressing... or maybe just some clarification....

WHICH font do I use to convey sarcasm?  

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6 hours ago, Mr.BlueSky said:

You are lucky ; ).

ABS was introduced in 1990 (except Hunter Models). Land Rover wanted to be the first to market with a ABS system for a Permanent 4WD... they achieved it and did a great making a system that is in my honest opinion still one of the most responsive and effective 4WD braking systems I have experienced. (****when it works****).

Of course being complex and silly it has multiple failure modes ; )

If I recall correctly the actual bleed screw count is 12 (for 1990 - changed again in 1993 when the accumulator bleeder was replaced with another brake pipe to module):

  • 3x Front LH Caliper
  • 3x Front RH Caliper
  • 1x Rear LH Caliper
  • 1x Rear RH Caliper
  • 1x ABS Pump
  • 1x Accumulator
  • 2x Brake Module

1990-92 Had  a bleeder on the accumulator and 2 on the module servo so still 12 (yes 12) total but just in a different location and from my experience 93 on had 3 on the module servo and none on the accumulator.. it is as Miles states a very efficient braking system when it works LOL. 

1970 -1989 had 8 screws.

Edited by SLOHybrid
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Got started on a baby jerry cradle mockup.

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Some day, with enough nurturing, they may grow into full size jerrys. : ).

Sunday also was full of excitement with some posh range rover sport work.

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Caption 1: Stripping a vehicle for parts

OR

Caption 2: Swapping suspension bushings

 

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Digging into the valve.cover gaskets... 

Yesterday I cleaned up the drip pan, oil mud so thick it was like play dough, even left my fingers clean

The PCV on the intake was gooped with rtv, and some of these globs in the second pic actually feel 1/4" thick... First pic is the bottom of the intake second the plenum on the block... funnnn. 

Oh and the valve covers don't even have matching bolts.....Danger zone...... Scared to pull the covers and lose threads. 

Not to mention, every nut, bolt, and bracket that could be missing is. Nothing holding any of the sai stuff on (made things easy) 

It's going to look a lot better and run a lot better when I'm done. 

Any references for a hot tank shop? Should probably get the rest of the intake dipped as well... 

Ramble on

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  • 4 weeks later...

Had my oil light come on the mother day. Luckily I was idling in the driveway. Engine sounded tractorish, so I figured it really had low oil pressure and wasn’t just a bad sensor. Took apart the front of the engine and found what I thought I would find. Common issue with these engines (4.6l from an 03 D2). Going to replace the timing chain while I’m in there. The front cover looked to be in good shape so I think it was just a normal wear and tear thing and not the chronic dowel pin issue. Plus the car is 20 years old so I figure most of the bad engines have been destroyed by now.

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  • 4 weeks later...

WARNING TO ALL ROVER OWNERS!

I caught this on the security camera yesterday... 

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It seems that the hoodlums in the neighborhood noticed an odd collection of rovers and decided to dump a D2 parts truck into the mix! The nerve!

If you have more than one rover, take care, it seems they begin accumulating!

( j k )

In all seriousness if anyone needs D2 bits and bobs feel free to reach out. @RobertDingli probably has the best knowledge of what is available but I am happy to take a look for specifics. The engine and most of the driveline has been removed. 

 

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Finally got around to putting my engine back together. Replaced the oil pump, water pump, and timing chain & sprockets. Also added an oil pressure and water temp gauge. The gauges were surprisingly easy to do. The water temp gauge just went on the top radiator hose. The oil presto sensor when on the timing chain cover in one of the plugged ports above the original Land Rover sensor which supports the oil light on the dash. I need to get longer wires, so the gauges are temporarily sitting on the dash but I wanted to keep a close eye on the oil pressure when I first started it up again so I hooked them up in their temporary state. So I need to still do some work, but I am relieved that the engine is running fine and I avoided any major damage with the failed oil pump.

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On 6/3/2022 at 8:35 AM, BHorner said:

Not for nothing but that is a hell of a clean working space considering the scope of the work! Keep it going man!

Thanks Brian!  I am trying to keep is "clean", but it's a challenge with it being a multi use space.

I do have garage goals like Don...but likely post kids college. 

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On 6/4/2022 at 6:35 PM, Elherbinator said:

Finally got around to putting my engine back together. Replaced the oil pump, water pump, and timing chain & sprockets. Also added an oil pressure and water temp gauge. The gauges were surprisingly easy to do. The water temp gauge just went on the top radiator hose. The oil presto sensor when on the timing chain cover in one of the plugged ports above the original Land Rover sensor which supports the oil light on the dash. I need to get longer wires, so the gauges are temporarily sitting on the dash but I wanted to keep a close eye on the oil pressure when I first started it up again so I hooked them up in their temporary state. So I need to still do some work, but I am relieved that the engine is running fine and I avoided any major damage with the failed oil pump.

1E12CBE6-E38B-4ACB-91DD-18FDB5E60A26.jpeg

IMG_0085.MOV

It's the cleanest one will ever see a rover engine!

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1 hour ago, Elherbinator said:

Getting this thing ready for a trail this weekend. Added some shackle mounts to the front bumper. Open diffs and a non locking tcase means I need recovery points.  

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Are you still running 10 spline diffs 

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Since I am not at Slick this weekend, figured I might as well do something productive with one of my Rovers. Finished the gauge install. Turned out pretty sweet. Total cost in parts ~ $240. Time should be a few hours. I had already had stuff apart so it didn’t take that long.

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On 6/11/2022 at 11:10 AM, Elherbinator said:

Since I am not at Slick this weekend, figured I might as well do something productive with one of my Rovers. Finished the gauge install. Turned out pretty sweet. Total cost in parts ~ $240. Time should be a few hours. I had already had stuff apart so it didn’t take that long.

IMG_0197.MOV

Looks great! I've been wanting to do the same on my D1! Product info please!

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