alpaca

I had a 2002 911 …. Great car - sold It and got a Tesla a couple of years ago though …..

Check pick and pull locations in the Bay Area - they sometimes have landrovers. I had someone pull a transmission for my daughters bmw - $125 - and ran well! Engine is also cheap - of course it can be a crap shoot ..look for a car that hit a tree ! Engine was probably running at the time

Discussion Starter • #1 • a moment ago Went to start the rover this morning... it cranked for 10 seconds then finally started ... ran rough, smelt of fuel, check engine light flashed on then off, hdd fault, transmission fault F code in display. I shut it down. Tried a restart and it would only crank. Got out the odb2 reader .. showed 2 pending codes .. p0118 (apparently coolant temp sensor error) and u2023p. Thermostat body had been replaced about 2 years ago.. so hard to believe the coolant sensor had failed. I pulled the engine cover off .. and saw the mouse had been chewing the insulation from the cover ... after I cleaned that up, I saw wiring damage on one of the wires that runs along the top left side of the engine (as you are looking at it from the front) ... pulled he connector and soldered a bit of spare wire in to fix the break... rover started right up and seems to run normal now .... off to the hardware store to get some mouse traps !2006 Range Rover sport hse 4.4 na

The 4 ramp trick worked for oil change - not needed though - off road height is good enough. I found out the same for rear diff - off road height and slide under the car from passenger side rear. Fluid change was pretty easy. Filled to spec with 500ml lab syringe from Amazon. Old fluid with about 45k miles on it still looked pretty good. Some gunk and metal particles on mag drain plug - but also not too bad: will add pic when I’m on my other computer.

I'm going to do diff fluid change on my RR Sport ... access under the vehicle in off road height is OK for oil change, but would like a little more for this job. Have people here driven the vehicle up onto 4 Rhino Ramps to do jobs like this ? Seems like it should be feasible. Also, for you Lr3 owners - I see some people that just fill until fluid comes out of the fill hole .. but LR recommendation is to use the exact fill amount specified - I have a syringe to measure out the correct fill level - how critical is that ? Going to try the FUCHs Titan 75W90 that is listed as alternative to Castrol. Will report back how good/bad my old fluid looked after 50K ....

Thanks for the replies guys - I went with the Castro’s gtx hm 10w40 - amd mann filter - seems to have Reduced the leaks from sump pan and oil cooler lines - and running fine so far .....

Had random alarm going off events - especially parked in the afternoon sun. A quick forum search suggested hood sensor micro switch is common failure - ordered one off amazon, 20 min install, and all looking good. Let’s hope that was where the issue was and it is fixed now.

Had random alarm going off events - especially parked in the afternoon sun. A quick forum search suggested hood sensor micro switch is common failure - ordered one off amazon, 20 min install, and all looking good. Let’s hope that was where the issue was and it is fixed now.

Recently started in bbc America - Chris Harris is main presenter now - the new team work really well together - I think almost as good as clarkson and co. Anyway / they have a Nepal special episode you can stream on Comcast - while not landrovering it is mostly off road and pretty funny / cool .... enjoy

At 6pm - new season - Landrover 2A episode. On mototrend channel (Comcast 754)

2002 4.6 HSE What do you guys run and how many miles between oil changes ? I'm thinking to go with Castrol GTX HM (semi syn) 10W40 .... doesn't get too cold around here ..

Oh no - what happened ? No rangerover sport for you instead of another d2 ?

It was a 2006 - so yes 4.4 jag engine - funny how we are saying that jag reliability is at least 2x bmw (here) !!

Maybe that model year was the jag engine ?

This l322 got to 300k miles - with only a new tranny bu Th e looks of it ... https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/cto/d/danville-range-rover-hse-white-06/7133818308.html (Not affiliated)

Fitted new front shocks and rear valve block .... hopefully no more saggy bottom after parking for a week ! (BTW - I drove past small shop on hwy 9 in Los Gatos - and saw the guy working on a P38 - asked if he can do my Sport - and he said "sure" - I had ordered the parts - but did not fancy to tackle in the drive way, He said the shocks were easy - but rear valve block was a b*tch). Seems to have done a good job and price was fair. If anyone wants the shop recommendation in Los Gatos - PM me.

Also - I don't think 18" wheels fit with SC brembo brakes without some caliper modification. The only way to tell if you have locking diff is to see if there is an electrical cable plugged into the diff on the passenger rear underside ... (there may be a way to tell from the info screen but I'm not sure)

I have the '06 - I did get a set of 18" wheels and AT tires - which would maybe make it even better on the trails - but I didn't;t get a chance to try that yet ! Our of the box with stock 19" Pirelli's it was already pretty good - Brenton only had to pull me out of the sand once ! Locking diff would be nice - but hard to find - and the electronic brake locker works pretty well. And, yes Ac blows cold, Harman stereo is good - and you can drive ant 85MPH+ to the events in comfort. Johnson rods are available for these also to give you 2" extra lift - and remove the front spoiler lip for offloading - gives you more clearance. I would get the 4.4ltr 06-09 - model however - 300HP is more than enough. SC engine has more issues , and the early 5.0l engine '10-'12 also had major timing chain issues which is expensive to repair. Budget to replace the air shocks, rebuild compressor, and lower control arms (front) at around 100K miles - and you will have a good and pretty reliable rig ... You can see some pretty nice looking '07-'09's for under $10K these days ...

Oil change day for me - going to try valvoline high mileage full synthetic 5w30 - also put in new Mann air filter and tyc cabin filter. Total cost $67 .... wonder what that would have cost at the dealer !

Looks like there is an affordable version too .... https://twitter.com/lego_group/status/1171708780888956928?s=12

I got the lower arms from graham .... bearmach - had them on for more than a year now - no issues - check with him for the uppers .... it was better than Atlantic British options for sure ....

Latest auto car article and pics from U.K. https://www.autocar.co.uk/car-news/new-cars/new-land-rover-defender-2019

Between 60 - 113K miles Alternator (twice - first Denso rebuilt burned out after 1 year) Rear Shocks Just rebuilt suspension compressor at 113K Rear parking sensor speaker Side mirror motor Thermostat body (cracked) & coolant tank (preventative)

I have an '06 HSE ... general consensus is to avoid the super charged one ... Pros Generally reliable, like LR3, 4.4 Jag engine is bullet proof Capable off road - been on number of club events - better than you think - ultimate limit is ground clearance ZF Transmission also seems to be good for 150K miles + - just make sure fluid was changed at ~75K Highway ride is conformable - you can cruise at 90 all day ... well at least for a couple of hours before the gas runs out ... You can find an '08-'09 for a pretty good price at around 100K miles - try to get one with good service records Cons Dealer is expensive - but DIY is mostly easy, and there are some Indies around. Basic stuff can be done at any mechanic shop Brake job not too expensive if you go with OE parts (like Padgid) v dealer Suspension components will be worn at 100K - plan to have to replace front control arms and maybe air springs/shocks Fuel economy in city is lousy - (12-14 MPG) and highway not much better 17-18MPG Handling is not that sporting - for a sport - lots of body roll - but OK - avoid the active roll bars - expensive to fix when they inevitably break. Performance is adequate - but not that fast. Electrics can act up - I had to replace alternator - CD is broken, heating divert flaps broken, etc. Sunroofs leak , dashes crack with age, clear coat starting to peel in places Major things I've had to replace (other than standard service items)

Put in new front brake sensor wire - fixed that damm warning light .. old sensor wire was damage driving over big pothole. Few months back ...