What Did You Do With Your Rover Today?

[psykokid]

Started on oil pump and timing chain .Pump was broken into 3 parts and timing chain was super lose.now just doing clean up and bolt her back together. 

 

Saw the pic you posted on instgram. No wonder you had low oil pressure.

[JFuller]

Basically all holes are offset by a hair, but enough that the pin now can't thread all the way through. 

So, I have to either grind down the bolt heads... or enlarge the shackle mount hole. 

Or get some soft shackles...

[lutz]

Saw the pic you posted on instgram. No wonder you had low oil pressure.

Well shes back together but still has low pressure. Im at 7psi at idle and 35 at 2k. She sounds great so will see how long she last. Time to start looking for a series 

[Jethro]

Well shes back together but still has low pressure. Im at 7psi at idle and 35 at 2k. She sounds great so will see how long she last. Time to start looking for a series

Definitely on my bucket list to build!!!

 

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[Elherbinator]

Added some tow points to the rear today. Got these tabs from eBay for $25. I think the placement will work out ok. I would have preferred a spot in the middle, but it wasn't really going to work.

 

 

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[DHappel]

Wish you could have gotten those more 'in-line' with the direction of pull.  I'm a bit worried that under heavy load they'll want to twist/tear out.  No doubt the part itself is more than strong enough, and the weld may also take the load fine, but the lever-arm could buckle the frame.

 

At that location I don't think you had much other options short of building up some significant structure, and most likely it'll be fine, but I'd keep an eye on the frame if you put a heavy load on those points.

[Elherbinator]

Wish you could have gotten those more 'in-line' with the direction of pull. I'm a bit worried that under heavy load they'll want to twist/tear out. No doubt the part itself is more than strong enough, and the weld may also take the load fine, but the lever-arm could buckle the frame.

 

At that location I don't think you had much other options short of building up some significant structure, and most likely it'll be fine, but I'd keep an eye on the frame if you put a heavy load on those points.

I agree. I didn't see any better option with my set up though. I may be able to fab a gusset with some 1/4" I have laying around, but I'm not sure if it's needed. I'll probably just do it once football season is over and my sundays are open

 

 

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[RedRover]

 I'll probably just do it once football season is over and my sundays are open

 

A man with priorities.

[Elherbinator]

Got off work a little early today and finished up the gussets on the tow points. Should be able to handle anything I can throw at it now, or at least I hope so. I guess my priorities go 1-football, 2-rover, 3-work?

 

 

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Edited December 15, 2017 by Elherbinator

[DHappel]

As an added bonus, that gusset will act as a slide to help prevent the tab from 'hooking' should you somehow manage to get a rock up there.

[Jethro]

I finally got around to getting my dif guards back on last night!

 

Been a giant pita, should have just listened to Don and drilled the holes and retapped to a M10 vs messing with what we thought was M9 but turned out to be bsf 3/4 by 20.

 

I actually bought the bolts twice as I didn’t realize the first ones were 2”. So finally got them returned new 1” arrived this week.

 

Next time I’ll upgrade to a metric bolt...

 

 

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[DHappel]

Have Drill (and tap).  Will Travel.

 

BTW, I have some stuff for you at my place.  We need to hook up and get that up your way. 

Edited December 16, 2017 by DHappel

[Jethro]

Have Drill (and tap). Will Travel.

 

BTW, I have some stuff for you at my place. We need to hook up and get that up your way.

I’m off the week of Christmas to new year’s, so I’ll find a day that works and come on down.

 

 

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[Jethro]

Okay so bringing this thread back to life!!!

 

I picked up some new to me wheels and tires from a new defender owner who’s going to even bigger tires!

 

Likely he’ll join us at some point, lives right outside Hollister hills.

 

Here’s some picks of the new shoes...

 

 

 

 

 

 

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[Jethro]

So I was finally able to get the wheels on as it seems who ordered them from kmc didn’t think about clearance for the axle flanges. Looks like they sent in 4.5 in which is the dimensions of the flange so requires running a spacer.

 

Which is fine, but on a 17x9.5 wheel with 4.75in BS leaves the 35x12x17 hanging out the side.

 

So now it’s on to cutting the wheel well sides off and adding fender flares.

 

Looking to increase my bump stop size as well to limit up travel and have more droop.

 

If it all works I’ll keep my center of gravity down and still be able to run the larger tires.

 

If not I’ll be adding the larger springs or spacers.

 

So just finished the first one yesterday.

 

 

 

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Edited February 20, 2018 by Jethro

[JFuller]

Finally got around to changing the Oil Pressure Relief Valve o-ring which I think is the source of my leaking.  It was definitely in need of replacing but not sure if it's the actual source of leaking.  If you intend on doing this job, plan it at a time when you are doing an oil and filter change.  It will make your life much easier.  Or do it when you have the front engine cover off (but how often do you do that?).  It requires a 17mm x 1.5mm o-ring (Thanks Ted!!).  This o-ring isn't one you're going to find a your local parts shop.  If you have a hydraulic shop nearby it's possible.  They can be had on the internet for not that much but usually you need to buy in bulk.  To make your life easier, drain the oil and remove the filter, remove both hard line oil hoses from the filter housing.  These hard line hoses also have o-rings.  They are probably in need or replacement as well.  I used some SAE ones I had on hand.  They were close enough to do the job.  once all that is out of the way there is an inside snap ring that needs to come out.  A set of snap ring pliers with 90 degree tips will help here.  Once the o-ring is out, on my truck, the lightest touch caused the cap to shoot out along with a surprising amount of oil sludge and oil.  From here it's easy, relatively.  Replace o-ring and re-assemble.  The most difficult part is getting the cap back in against the spring pressure.  This is where having the filter and the hard pipes off really helps.  With them off you can get both thumbs in there and get a good push to push that o-ring past the snap ring groove.  I wasn't able to do it with only one.  

 

While I was in there I noticed that both engine mounts were broken all the way through.  I wanted to get a quality set from RoverWare but time is short as I am leaving for a snow wheeling trip on friday morning so I had to get some locally as I couldn't be certain that they would arrive in time for me to install and hit my departure deadline.   It always surprises me how high you have to lift the motor to change a motor mount.  But it made it to work this morning which is more miles than it has seen in at least 3 months.  

Edited February 21, 2018 by JFuller

[DHappel]

I think I actually cut the studs on my passenger side mount a little shorter to make getting it in easier!  I figure as long as I get a nuts-worth of thread anything more is just extra anyway. 

[lithium1330]

this was on Sunday... but swapped out two u-joints on the rear drive shaft. Wanted to change out the rear pinion seal (due to a leak), but found out the rear diff flange has a rotational of wear... may be why rear diff seal is leaking? So, ordered a new flange, seal and will tackle job that this weekend. 

[Jethro]

this was on Sunday... but swapped out two u-joints on the rear drive shaft. Wanted to change out the rear pinion seal (due to a leak), but found out the rear diff flange has a rotational of wear... may be why rear diff seal is leaking? So, ordered a new flange, seal and will tackle job that this weekend.

I've run into this where new seal didn't solve and bought a whole new flange kit for the same reason...grove worn in still caused a leak.

 

For the price I'll just replace flanges in the future since its a nuisance to do.

 

 

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[Jethro]

So I was able to finish the other front side and then actually drive it with new tires...and man are they loud!

 

Seems to run well but did have the tac stop working.

 

Now on to the rear...

 

 

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[Elherbinator]

So I was able to finish the other front side and then actually drive it with new tires...and man are they loud!

 

Seems to run well but did have the tac stop working.

 

Now on to the rear...

 

 

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Told you man, you need to upgrade your stereo with those mud grapplers! Probably second only to boggers, but the loudest tires I have ever owned

 

 

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[Jethro]

Told you man, you need to upgrade your stereo with those mud grapplers! Probably second only to boggers, but the loudest tires I have ever owned

 

 

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Huh did you say something??

 

 

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[lithium1330]

Picked up a 1-1/2" and a 2" PVC fittings ($2) to finish the rear diff flange install. 

You can see the grove from the old unit. And removing the old seal was a bit of a pain... 

But it's done, updated and test drive went fine. 

 

Now, I have to troubleshoot a CEL with a P0420.

Got a couple O2 sensors needing to be replaced. 

 

[phobucket]

 

picked up a set of used Compomotives and G2s. I'm ready for the March MORG

 

 

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[alpaca]

I wore my rear tires down to the steel belt ! Whole inside edge was starting to separate from the rest of the tire ! Replaced the pirelli scorpions with Goodyear Eagle Sport A/S - mainly because I could get that done quickly/locally. So far tires have tightened up handling , seem as quiet as pirellis and ran well in the wet today. Steering response is improved. Let’s see what they are like in the dry.