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17" beadlocks


DHappel

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Milestar Patagonia M/T Mud-Terrain Radial Tire - LT315/70R17 121Q

 

Only 71lbs and radial... great reviews and less expensive than some of the others...

 

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Edited by bandykins
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Milestar Patagonia M/T Mud-Terrain Radial Tire - LT315/70R17 121Q

 

Only 71lbs and radial... great reviews and less expensive than some of the others...

 

Sent from my SM-G970U1 using Tapatalk

 

I'm very skeptical of most of those reviews as Milestar went on an advertising spree a year or so ago and gave out tires to every fool with a YT channel in exchange for reviews.  That's why they suddenly seemed to be everywhere all at once.  If somebody gives you free tires you're likely to say nice things about them. Or at least not report the bad things.

 

That said, they are very cheap so that is appealing.  I considered buying some for my van.  But they are well below the level of tire I'm looking at here.  I expect they would do OK on slickrock, but not much in snow or mud as they have very little void.  They're really more of a street-friendly MT.  If I were looking in that category there are lots of tires I'd consider such as the MT/R, Mickey MTZ-P3 or Baja Boss, KM3, STT-Pro, Toyo open country, etc  All are good tires and more street friendly than the stuff I'm considering, but a step backward from the PitBulls I currently run.

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First, I had STT Pros on the LR3.  Still have a worn 33" set behind the shop if anybody can use them.  275-70-18  I liked them but want to go more aggressive for the Disco as it doesn't need to be as street friendly.

 

Second, I have a perhaps outdated image of ProComp as bargain basement stuff.  I guess they've been improving things over the last few years so maybe I'm out of date there but regardless, not going to a sticky as I still drive this on the road.

 

Lastly, ain't no way I'm running 40s on a Rover axle!  My 37s are already pushing things enough.  Besides, if I went 40s I'd have to also pick up a set of portals and this whole thing will get right out of control!

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Sounds like a good opportunity for Don to go to 40s.

 

37s are so last decade.

I think what Robert is saying is that you could use all the help you can get Don. So 40’s might be the right move over 37’s. Robert’s words, not mine

 

 

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I think what Robert is saying is that you could use all the help you can get Don. So 40’s might be the right move over 37’s. Robert’s words, not mine

 

 

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Well you know Robert - he's always talking smack.  

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Wheel update:

 

Took my 'old and busted' down to Stockton Wheel yesterday to see what they could do.  I was hoping that since it's a pretty generic style and they custom make wheels maybe they'd just be able to replace the center section.  He took one look at the size of the center bore and the lug spacing, asked 'Land Rover?' and said no.  The best he could do was cut it out and put in a 3/8" plate.  That would be a pass - the wheel is already 38 lbs so I don't need to make it that much heavier plus it would look completely different.   I then asked if he could just re-drill the lug pattern clocked around and leave the old messed up holes alone - he said maybe; it would depend on how true the center bore was as he would need it to be straight to clamp it to his lathe.  He then pointed out that the rim has a bend (did that on the Rubicon a couple years ago) and seemed highly skeptical that it would work.  I then asked if maybe he could take my matching but non-beadlock spare and fit the rock ring to that but again no, though he did say he could cut the center out of the spare and weld it into this wheel.  That would be an OK option but he definitely gave me the vibe he'd rather not work on it and said it would be "expensive".  Not sure how much that might be and didn't feel like pushing him as I figured that would only turn out badly.

 

Waiting to hear back from two people on alloy wheels, hopefully today.   Also going to start checking tire prices.  I'm about 75% likely to go with new stuff even though (because?) it's the least financially logical thing to do.

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And you should make sure that the new wheels will fit over your future portal axles. Better buy the portals now to be sure.

 

Then if they are as good as they look, I might buy a set in the name of solidarity.

Edited by RobertDingli
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Is buying another single 15” beadlocks from TR not an option? Seems like that would be a reasonable thing to do

 

 

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They don't offer them anymore

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BTW, I do have a call into TR (voice mail) to see if there's anything they can help with but so far still waiting,

 

Seems like waiting is all I can do right now.  I have messages in with Sam at Royal Overland who said he could likely get me a set of Dirty Life wheels, and a guy back east who's had a set of Walker Evans wheels for sale for over 6 months who said yes, still available but hasn't gotten back to my last request (it's all via IG, so probably not the best avenue of communication)

 

Waiting....I'm not good at it.

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Raceline's having a sale on there beadlocks. Super Swamper Irok ND's in a 37 are about $450 at 4wheelparts

 

Which Racelines did you get?  Was just looking at the Monster RT232 and looks like it's only available in 8 and 8.5" width.  A little narrow; don't think I would want to go less than 9

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http://www.caliwheels.com/wheel-machining-p-4.htm

These guys may be able to repair your old rim

 

 

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Thanks for the link.  I'll reach out to them next week.

 

I really should just fix this one if I can.  At $800+ per wheel/tire that's a pretty big pill to swallow.  

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For what you like to use the D1 for, having some weight in the wheels might be a good thing. Hell, competition crawlers will fill theirs up with water for the extra weight. Is there a reason for a concern with being around the weight you are now? I’m guessing it’s similar to mine at around 120-130lbs per wheel

 

 

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