lithium1330

just looked up on the map and Lassen is actually not as far as I thought - <4hrs from South Bay... so, I think the long weekend would make this a good trip.

Didn't do a whole lot. Just drove it home and parked it next to it's new friend the 110. 
 
 

I should add I took the door panel off and jumped the window motor to roll the window back up before the rains! Seems I have a bit of electrical work in my future!  

ok... it's been awfully quiet here... 
There is no way any Rover ran for almost a month without requiring its owner to do work on it...
 
Today, I changed the oil in the transfer case - good news: oil has been in full for 2 yrs. So, no leaks! Better news - acceptable amount of metal shaving on the magnet. 
Also changed the front diff oil - fluid was dirty, but not rancid. 
I did not change the rear diff oil... b/c I'm on the fence about installing rear locker. :-/ Still on the fence as of this writing. 
 
Re-tighten down a few radiator hose clamps... finding drips when under pressure.   Rad hoses hate me. Bc one end of the top hose still has a very slow drip. 
 
Also adjusted the passenger side door stay - door wouldn't stay open, and slams itself close in light breeze on its un-suspecting owner or spouse. My fix... shim it with a piece of ziptie. Yea... that's all it needed. Love the simple mechanical aspects of older trucks. 
 
 

ok... it's been awfully quiet here... 
There is no way any Rover ran for almost a month without requiring its owner to do work on it...
 
Today, I changed the oil in the transfer case - good news: oil has been in full for 2 yrs. So, no leaks! Better news - acceptable amount of metal shaving on the magnet. 
Also changed the front diff oil - fluid was dirty, but not rancid. 
I did not change the rear diff oil... b/c I'm on the fence about installing rear locker. :-/ Still on the fence as of this writing. 
 
Re-tighten down a few radiator hose clamps... finding drips when under pressure.   Rad hoses hate me. Bc one end of the top hose still has a very slow drip. 
 
Also adjusted the passenger side door stay - door wouldn't stay open, and slams itself close in light breeze on its un-suspecting owner or spouse. My fix... shim it with a piece of ziptie. Yea... that's all it needed. Love the simple mechanical aspects of older trucks. 
 
 

Nothing too exciting unless you are my wife...been a few years since a detail on the LR4 and our trip to Reno it really needed it plus the abuse from the kids...
 

 
 
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Got some new shoes for the classic. Picked up a set of 205R16 Bridgestone Duelers (OE size for the truck, very difficult to find nowadays) and mounted them on a nice set of 3 spoke alloys for that factory fresh look. (got the wheels from SLOHybrid a couple of months ago... thanks again!)
 

Cutting and fenders flares are done plus some bump stops for a defender. Now we'll see how much it rubs...
 

 
 
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Picked up a 1-1/2" and a 2" PVC fittings ($2) to finish the rear diff flange install. 
You can see the grove from the old unit. And removing the old seal was a bit of a pain... 
But it's done, updated and test drive went fine. 
 
Now, I have to troubleshoot a CEL with a P0420.
Got a couple O2 sensors needing to be replaced. 
 

I've run into this where new seal didn't solve and bought a whole new flange kit for the same reason...grove worn in still caused a leak.
 
For the price I'll just replace flanges in the future since its a nuisance to do.
 
 
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this was on Sunday... but swapped out two u-joints on the rear drive shaft. Wanted to change out the rear pinion seal (due to a leak), but found out the rear diff flange has a rotational of wear... may be why rear diff seal is leaking? So, ordered a new flange, seal and will tackle job that this weekend. 

Oh, that's it. no need to browse through NCLR forums anymore.  

So I finally got around to making the greatest upgrade a land Rover owner can make... signed up for AAA premier road side assistance.
 
I've also been working on my headliner, took it out over a year ago to redo and finally have it back in the car.
 
Now just finishing adding back the plastic pieces... looking forward to having sun visors again!!
 
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finally got a _solid_ recovery point for my ARB bumper. 
And after much research, ARB doesn't have front recovery points on their front bumpers... no matter what make you buy it for. 
Bonehead move of the project... let's be honest, you're not working on a LR if there isn't a bonehead story behind it.. I used a level to ensure the mounting holes are level on the bumper. Marked them and drilled them out. Somewhere between marking and drilling, I got un-leveled by a bit. So, the recovery point is slightly off. Oh well,  I'l just say it's like that to compensate for the weight of driver - like corner balancing in race cars!

 
Then, decided to get grade 8 hardware (bc whatever came with the mount was not marked for grade 8)... well, the bolt heads are a little too big for the shackle. And I can only get 2 turns into the thread. So, I'll have to grind down 1/16" on the head and make it fit. But when was the last time you worked on the truck without breaking out the grinder? Though, not one has been able to confirm nor deny, it's accepted as modern day fact that grinders were invented in Solihull, UK, shortly after LR introduced Series I's. Feel free to share that story! 

 

MrBlueSky came over for some wrenching; installed his new-to-him Rovers North bumper, an electric fan on his ExMoD110.
.
And I had installed a 3 core radiator with new coolant, electric fan (dialed to kick on at 200F) and oil change to 15w50 M1. Running at idle, the electric fans come on about every 10-15min (I think that’s normal?); dropping the temp from 199 back to 185. This thing better not overheat anymore!
 
And last week, finally finished the switch cluster for lights, rad fan, aux fuel, winch, 2x 12v outlet, and iPad mini mount. Looks pretty from the outside, but a rats nest of wires behind it.

Truck was an oven last weekend... the factory 1/16" insulation (soft foam + vinyl on burlap to make said foam look better) didn't do much... anything metal was 135F, and any plastic pieces were 127F. So, this week, I decided to insulate the truck. Started off with POR15 over surface rust inside the battery box... then pulled the center console, then seats, carpet (which were just falling apart). Then, layered on the 3/16" foil covered closed cell foam. Not quite done yet...still have to cover the transmission tunnel cover and firewall. I also found that 2 small heat shields above the cats are gone! I'll need to make something to keep it from roasting the bulk head. 
 
Based on my unscientific testing (best kind, by the way) - I put a 12"x12" on gf's engine cover...came back with an IR temp gun 20min later - there was about 20F difference between top of foam (108) and bottom of foam/engine cover (131F). 

Truck was an oven last weekend... the factory 1/16" insulation (soft foam + vinyl on burlap to make said foam look better) didn't do much... anything metal was 135F, and any plastic pieces were 127F. So, this week, I decided to insulate the truck. Started off with POR15 over surface rust inside the battery box... then pulled the center console, then seats, carpet (which were just falling apart). Then, layered on the 3/16" foil covered closed cell foam. Not quite done yet...still have to cover the transmission tunnel cover and firewall. I also found that 2 small heat shields above the cats are gone! I'll need to make something to keep it from roasting the bulk head. 
 
Based on my unscientific testing (best kind, by the way) - I put a 12"x12" on gf's engine cover...came back with an IR temp gun 20min later - there was about 20F difference between top of foam (108) and bottom of foam/engine cover (131F). 

So it's all back together and drives well. Had some challenges with the newly rebuilt radiator but seems to be doing well now. I haven't been able to really test it though as I'm having electrical gremlin issues.
 
When I first started it up my brake lights stayed on. I then took for a test drive and came back and parked it. As I went to remove the key it just stayed on... ended up realizing lights were on. Reinserted the key and shut lights off and then the key shut off the car.
 
This happened a couple more times.
 
I then decided to look at the lights. Pulled them out and started it up, then reconnected them watching the lights. Brake lights stayed off at first, but then came on when I turned the lights on.
 
So that's where I left it, need to now figure out what to do next. Thinking about looking into brake light switch again.
 
Really need to work with someone else and a multimeter tool and start testing connections.
 
Once I'm legal with lights I can revisit the lockers and get the air compressor and switches wired up.
 
I did take a minute to do the tire carrier flip which seems to work out well and should be enough space for when I ever go to a 35" tire.
 
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I finished rebuilding the rear end and adding in the upgraded summers Bros Axels. It's finally back on all four tires!!
 
So tomorrow I'll add fluids to the diffs that are now running gbr 4.11 gears with ARB lockers.
 
The original gears are pretty mangled too, definitely time for a change!
 
After that I'll install the newly upgraded radiator and coolant hoses. Then it will be time to start it up it up for the first time in over a month...
 
I'm really excited to get it going!
 

 
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I was able to score a complete ARB locker set from a D90 that was being brought back to stock. Has 4.11 GBR gears and the rear is running upgraded axels from summers brothers racing that come in a 30 spline. All switches and the compressor are included. Ideally I'll just need to run new air hoses and set the electrical up.
 
Really excited to get some proper gear on this thing and the lockers are awesome as well!
 
Hopefully I'll get some great beers and bring them to Don's for remedial electrical lessons and a wrenching day.🤘
 
My wife is fearing this will speed up my desire to run 35s or dare say 37s...😁
 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/142384979753
 
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Finished the relocation kit, looking forward to seeing how it performs... possibly this Friday.
 
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you waxed the truck, didn't you? 
it's ok... we won't point & laugh.  

Head Gasket replacement complete.   So far so good.  Ran it in the driveway for a while last night and not a visible drop.  All in all not a terrible job.  Had a couple of setbacks that cost me some time.  The biggest three were 1. installing the exhaust manifold gaskets upside down which fit but wouldn't allow the install of the new spark plugs (pretty sure I did the same thing on my disco at one point)  2. installing the pulg wires on the coil upside down (owners manual diagram isn't very helpful but the RAVE is significantly better) 3. breaking a bolt for the alternate bracket with almost no torque at all (one handed with a stubby wrench).  Other than that all went pretty well.  I could probably shave a bunch of hours off if I ever had to do it again.  (Please God, don't make me do this again on this car)  

Finished 2 projects between rains from last week.
Spare tire carrier and flooring on roof basket.
No more wheel/tire rattling the crap out of the door driving down those corrugated roads.
 
And if you ask how I know the spare carrier was installed successfully and correctly?
Like all other Land Rover projects before this, you find yourself with few left over parts you have no clue where they go or are from... yet, not enough to make you say you got it wrong

Finished 2 projects between rains from last week.
Spare tire carrier and flooring on roof basket.
No more wheel/tire rattling the crap out of the door driving down those corrugated roads.
 
And if you ask how I know the spare carrier was installed successfully and correctly?
Like all other Land Rover projects before this, you find yourself with few left over parts you have no clue where they go or are from... yet, not enough to make you say you got it wrong

Finished 2 projects between rains from last week.
Spare tire carrier and flooring on roof basket.
No more wheel/tire rattling the crap out of the door driving down those corrugated roads.
 
And if you ask how I know the spare carrier was installed successfully and correctly?
Like all other Land Rover projects before this, you find yourself with few left over parts you have no clue where they go or are from... yet, not enough to make you say you got it wrong