lithium1330

Picked up a 1-1/2" and a 2" PVC fittings ($2) to finish the rear diff flange install. You can see the grove from the old unit. And removing the old seal was a bit of a pain... But it's done, updated and test drive went fine. Now, I have to troubleshoot a CEL with a P0420. Got a couple O2 sensors needing to be replaced.

this was on Sunday... but swapped out two u-joints on the rear drive shaft. Wanted to change out the rear pinion seal (due to a leak), but found out the rear diff flange has a rotational of wear... may be why rear diff seal is leaking? So, ordered a new flange, seal and will tackle job that this weekend.

Basically all holes are offset by a hair, but enough that the pin now can't thread all the way through. So, I have to either grind down the bolt heads... or enlarge the shackle mount hole.

Oh, that's it. no need to browse through NCLR forums anymore.

finally got a _solid_ recovery point for my ARB bumper. And after much research, ARB doesn't have front recovery points on their front bumpers... no matter what make you buy it for. Bonehead move of the project... let's be honest, you're not working on a LR if there isn't a bonehead story behind it.. I used a level to ensure the mounting holes are level on the bumper. Marked them and drilled them out. Somewhere between marking and drilling, I got un-leveled by a bit. So, the recovery point is slightly off. Oh well, I'l just say it's like that to compensate for the weight of driver - like corner balancing in race cars! Then, decided to get grade 8 hardware (bc whatever came with the mount was not marked for grade 8)... well, the bolt heads are a little too big for the shackle. And I can only get 2 turns into the thread. So, I'll have to grind down 1/16" on the head and make it fit. But when was the last time you worked on the truck without breaking out the grinder? Though, not one has been able to confirm nor deny, it's accepted as modern day fact that grinders were invented in Solihull, UK, shortly after LR introduced Series I's. Feel free to share that story!

I was running 10w40 before the swap. The 15w50 is heavier, but it's synthetic and flows reasonably well even in winter in bay area, so cold start up shouldn't be an issue. Prob more important is 50 protects better at high temp.. which I've pretty much accepted my engine just runs hot. And I think 15/50 is only grade with zinc for add'l wear protection. I was also looking at the Shell Rotella T3; popular with owners of older LR V8's. I've not had experience with it.

MrBlueSky came over for some wrenching; installed his new-to-him Rovers North bumper, an electric fan on his ExMoD110. . And I had installed a 3 core radiator with new coolant, electric fan (dialed to kick on at 200F) and oil change to 15w50 M1. Running at idle, the electric fans come on about every 10-15min (I think that’s normal?); dropping the temp from 199 back to 185. This thing better not overheat anymore! And last week, finally finished the switch cluster for lights, rad fan, aux fuel, winch, 2x 12v outlet, and iPad mini mount. Looks pretty from the outside, but a rats nest of wires behind it.

Truck was an oven last weekend... the factory 1/16" insulation (soft foam + vinyl on burlap to make said foam look better) didn't do much... anything metal was 135F, and any plastic pieces were 127F. So, this week, I decided to insulate the truck. Started off with POR15 over surface rust inside the battery box... then pulled the center console, then seats, carpet (which were just falling apart). Then, layered on the 3/16" foil covered closed cell foam. Not quite done yet...still have to cover the transmission tunnel cover and firewall. I also found that 2 small heat shields above the cats are gone! I'll need to make something to keep it from roasting the bulk head. Based on my unscientific testing (best kind, by the way) - I put a 12"x12" on gf's engine cover...came back with an IR temp gun 20min later - there was about 20F difference between top of foam (108) and bottom of foam/engine cover (131F).

installed new tie rod ends to the track rod. What a pain to remove and replace parts gunked up with 20yrs of dust and crap. Took a bench vise, a cheater bar and help from Naplm00 to remove the tie rod ends and then to put new ones on - naturally bar tore one of the new boots. Replacing the boot was easier than R&R the tie rod ends. Still have to mount and run power for the radio before next Sunday's trip.

replaced the top radiator hose that sprung a leak, then silicone taped, then sprung another leak. keeping all the coolant in the truck now! Thank to GraemeWare for supplying the new hose!

you waxed the truck, didn't you? it's ok... we won't point & laugh.

With help of nengelbrecht6, replaced the rear brake pads, flushed brakes and added 1" of spacers to the passenger-side rear suspension... B/c for reason of it's a Land Rover, that corner of truck sat 1" lower (19" fender to center hub) than the other 3 (20"). Still have a coolant leak somewhere. That will need to take to a shop, I think.

I, too, am skeptical on some of the high torque number claims. To be fair though, I've only had HF "600ft-lb" impact air gun that I got for $40-some/$50 or whatever they cost after 20% off coupon. For the bulkhead nut mentioned, I used my dewalt 18v 1/2" impact (300ft-lbs) to undo the nut to install a slider. The gun didn't just zip the thing off... it took a multiple 30sec bursts... i felt i sat there for a 5-10min or so before the nut finally got loose. That, and plenty of liquid wrench soaking for multiple days. On nuts that I feel may be stuck, I always soak them everyday for 3 to 4 days leading up to the job. I have the Dewalt DW059K 1/2" impact wrench 300ft-lbs for the bigger job, and the smaller Dewalt impact driver (forgot model #) w/ 100ft-lbs for tight spaces and less torqued down stuff. Both run of the same 18v battery type. Talking about it so much, I think I'm gonna take the impact to undo & re-do all the lug nuts on the truck - just the fun of it.

@DHappel didn't you win a gift cert towards a pump that does 100% duty cycle? I remember the mfgr claims you can run impacts off their pump...

For mobile use, batt powered impact guns are super convenient. You can run it between trucks and a decent 18v impact gun will yield 300 ft-lbs to remove lugs. I can't think of other things on our trucks will need more than 100ft lbs to undo. Ok, I can... if you were to undo a 20yo bulkhead bolt off a D90/110. I used to swear by the air compressors. Then, I got batt impact guns and never really looked back. I do use the little pan cake compressor to blow dust out from the alternator and air filter after trips.

i bet that tire rotation was much quicker with the lift!

Finished 2 projects between rains from last week. Spare tire carrier and flooring on roof basket. No more wheel/tire rattling the crap out of the door driving down those corrugated roads. And if you ask how I know the spare carrier was installed successfully and correctly? Like all other Land Rover projects before this, you find yourself with few left over parts you have no clue where they go or are from... yet, not enough to make you say you got it wrong