i need some emotional support & guidance

[girlrvr]

ok. i have a plan for the plan 

 

just got off the phone with colin.

he suspects that all the play might just be because the front diff is shot.

he just installed a t-case and tranny in conor's D1 and didn't get that much improvement (i am paraphrasing).

 

so, *our* plan is to replace just the front diff.

and change the tranny fluid and t-case oil.

then see how that goes.

it might be as simple as that.

 

 

really? omg. get me off this crazy thing! (anyone get that reference?) hahaha

 

so, graeme, leme know when i can come by and we can do the diff! whatever works for you.

 

thanks again, everyone !!!

[astateofmike]

As long as Astro is having fun.

 

Ok. Plan in motion. But you have to promise to get dirty on these jobs. Now is the time to see how everything works and goes together.

[girlrvr]

As long as Astro is having fun.

 

Ok. Plan in motion. But you have to promise to get dirty on these jobs. Now is the time to see how everything works and goes together.

yes. absolutely!

 

when i had the rear truetrac, ujoint rear drive shaft installed & did the hub seals i got to watch/help a bit. learned a ton !!

 

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[girlrvr]

yes. absolutely!

 

when i had the rear truetrac, ujoint rear drive shaft installed & did the hub seals i got to watch/help a bit. learned a ton !!

 

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and nice job on catching the reference ;-)

 

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[DHappel]

Oh man, sorry I wasn't reading last night - I missed all this!

 

I was pretty much going to jump in and say 'get it out of there!' when they started piling those numbers up.  I'm about to head out the door so I don't have a lot of time to go into this but it looks like everybody else has already covered it pretty well.  We can do it FAR cheaper than what they are suggesting, and I like the plan you have now about doing a quick front diff swap then moving on from there.  Front diffs are cheap and easy to come by - I've got a spare you can have as well.  Should it come to it, I'd just pick up a parts truck on the cheap and have everything except a manual transmission.  We can always pull that out and have it rebuilt if we have to.  But for now I'd say just flush the oil and get it on the road.  

 

And of course my place will be available even if we need to do a long term job.  

 

First thing's first, let's get it up to Graeme and see what he has to report after you throw in another diff.  That's only a couple hours' work, some RTV, and some oil.  The hardest part will be finding a place to park at Graeme's...seems somebody has Rovers strewn all over the street up there.

 

 

 

You're not done.  Not by a long shot.  

[astateofmike]

Not done, true.  But have a direction.

Every journey starts with just one step....but not knowing where to go will keep you from getting out the door.

 

Looks like Don will help....

 

So, when you read all this and let it wash over your soul....next time someone asks "why should I join the NorCal Rovers" we all have yet ANOTHER example to share.

 

I mean, besides midnight bacon.

 

When I first started, I found much help and education (and parts) on these pages...so happy to see it continue.

[girlrvr]

yes, agree. midnight bacon is really hard to beat  ... this club ROCKS !!! <3

 

thank you so much for rallying around me as i learn how to live with this D1 ;-)

 

upwards and onwards ... or something like that.

 

vehicle still at cerrones. will pick it up tomorrow. will wait for graeme to chime in and see if i can bring it by his.

 

thanks again !!!

[astateofmike]

Well, with Graeme and now Don chiming in, you have 2 donations of differentials.    

 

Don has said the shop is available for work.

 

Next...if you are taking out the diffs, time to think about axles.  HD axles would be a nice addition and now would be the time to do it.  Wonder if CLUB SPONSOR Roverware.us has an offering for you?  Maybe worth the ask...since you can pick them up in route.

 

So, we begin to talk about Tcase and transmission.  BUT, the list is getting smaller.

[lithium1330]

This will make a good build thread.

I think we should have a spreadsheet to track stuff getting replaced and how long the build takes.

[Elherbinator]

Sounds like you guys are going to be disappointed if the front diff takes care of the issue . Sounds possible too considering the issues with rest of the drivetrain seemed to be highly speculative. Maybe not probable, but definitely seems possible.

 

 

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[DHappel]

Not done, true.  But have a direction.

 

I meant not done as in 'not done in', though your interpretation is valid as well. 

[GraemeWare]

ok. i have a plan for the plan 

 

just got off the phone with colin.

he suspects that all the play might just be because the front diff is shot.

he just installed a t-case and tranny in conor's D1 and didn't get that much improvement (i am paraphrasing).

 

so, *our* plan is to replace just the front diff.

and change the tranny fluid and t-case oil.

then see how that goes.

it might be as simple as that.

 

 

really? omg. get me off this crazy thing! (anyone get that reference?) hahaha

 

so, graeme, leme know when i can come by and we can do the diff! whatever works for you.

 

thanks again, everyone !!!

I concur with Colin. Sure the drive-train might have some slack, but that's not so unusual. Oh, and Conner's new gearbox was a fully rebuilt Ashcroft unit (supplied by that nice guy at RoverWare.US) so they don't come better than that.

 

So back to timing. I have a real day job, so it will have to be evening/weekend for me. I can move the RRC onto the road and we'll have a little driveway space. I have a spare complete axle to canibalize parts if needed (well, everything except what TigerDan already cannibalized when he needed parts)

 

Lets do it!

 

Regards,

 

Graeme

[GraemeWare]

Next...if you are taking out the diffs, time to think about axles.  HD axles would be a nice addition and now would be the time to do it.  Wonder if CLUB SPONSOR Roverware.us has an offering for you?  Maybe worth the ask...since you can pick them up in route.

Mike,

 

In stock.

 

Regards,

 

Graeme

[astateofmike]

See Jeanne,  you need the secret code to really understand the stock levels at Roverware.us.  However, "I am an NCLR Member" is that code!

 

Now is the time to consider HD axles to match the lockers.  WHEN I run out of 10 splines (yes, you all read that correctly...I accept donations of old axles) OR my ARB dies, I too will be blessed by the Roverware stock!

[girlrvr]

I concur with Colin. Sure the drive-train might have some slack, but that's not so unusual. Oh, and Conner's new gearbox was a fully rebuilt Ashcroft unit (supplied by that nice guy at RoverWare.US) so they don't come better than that.

 

So back to timing. I have a real day job, so it will have to be evening/weekend for me. I can move the RRC onto the road and we'll have a little driveway space. I have a spare complete axle to canibalize parts if needed (well, everything except what TigerDan already cannibalized when he needed parts)

 

Lets do it!

 

Regards,

 

Graeme

 

ok. right. real day job. of course :-)

 

so, few things: 

 

yes, let's do it! i'll DM you, graeme.

 

regarding the axles. this is a new topic for me.

 

(1) are you guys suggesting HD axles (a) in the front only (since we are doing the front diff and have to take it apart anyway)? or ( front and rear axles?

FYI i do already have TT in the rear on standard axles.

 

(2) was planning just to put the stock diff in (both Don's and Graeme's are stock diffs, yes?). so with a stock dff i don't really need HD axles, right?

 

(3) i am planning a truetrac for the front but thought i'd just wait to do that after the stock diff swap (because won't i need a diff shop to do that to get accurate measurements/positioning)? but now that i'm writing this, maybe that's dumb ... since to do the diff/TT, you have take apart the hubs and re-seal etc. so why do it twice. hmmm ...

 

(4) i looked at roverware website and they are about $500. am i looking at the right thing?

 

lmk what you think!

[DHappel]

I concur with Colin. Sure the drive-train might have some slack, but that's not so unusual. Oh, and Conner's new gearbox was a fully rebuilt Ashcroft unit (supplied by that nice guy at RoverWare.US) so they don't come better than that.

 

So back to timing. I have a real day job, so it will have to be evening/weekend for me. I can move the RRC onto the road and we'll have a little driveway space. I have a spare complete axle to canibalize parts if needed (well, everything except what TigerDan already cannibalized when he needed parts)

 

Lets do it!

 

Regards,

 

Graeme

I'm pretty sure I've got a full set or two of 12-spline axles in the shed as well.  The price would be pretty salty though.... I mean, gas prices have been going up and it's a long way up here. 

[GraemeWare]

ok. right. real day job. of course :-)

 

so, few things: 

 

yes, let's do it! i'll DM you, graeme.

 

regarding the axles. this is a new topic for me.

 

(1) are you guys suggesting HD axles (a) in the front only (since we are doing the front diff and have to take it apart anyway)? or ( front and rear axles?

FYI i do already have TT in the rear on standard axles.

 

(2) was planning just to put the stock diff in (both Don's and Graeme's are stock diffs, yes?). so with a stock dff i don't really need HD axles, right?

 

(3) i am planning a truetrac for the front but thought i'd just wait to do that after the stock diff swap (because won't i need a diff shop to do that to get accurate measurements/positioning)? but now that i'm writing this, maybe that's dumb ... since to do the diff/TT, you have take apart the hubs and re-seal etc. so why do it twice. hmmm ...

 

(4) i looked at roverware website and they are about $500. am i looking at the right thing?

 

lmk what you think!

I was just tugging your chain .... but ....if you want to do an Ashcroft TBD (better than a Truetrac, but same principle) we do have those fully built into new thirds.

 

Let's discuss. Doesn't make a difference either way.

 

Regards,

 

Graeme

[GraemeWare]

See Jeanne,  you need the secret code to really understand the stock levels at Roverware.us.  However, "I am an NCLR Member" is that code!

 

Now is the time to consider HD axles to match the lockers.  WHEN I run out of 10 splines (yes, you all read that correctly...I accept donations of old axles) OR my ARB dies, I too will be blessed by the Roverware stock!

Mike,

 

Keep the 10 splines, they're better than the later ones.

 

Regards,

 

Graeme

[DiscoDavis]

I concur with Colin. Sure the drive-train might have some slack, but that's not so unusual. Oh, and Conner's new gearbox was a fully rebuilt Ashcroft unit (supplied by that nice guy at RoverWare.US) so they don't come better than that.

 

So back to timing. I have a real day job, so it will have to be evening/weekend for me. I can move the RRC onto the road and we'll have a little driveway space. I have a spare complete axle to canibalize parts if needed (well, everything except what TigerDan already cannibalized when he needed parts)

 

Lets do it!

 

Regards,

 

Graeme

 

Ayyyy 

 

Colin and Grame helped my problem child keep on going, I wouldn't have a car without them. Anything I can do Jeanne, let me know.

 

Is there going to be a south bay wrenching party? 

[Elherbinator]

ok. right. real day job. of course :-)

 

so, few things:

 

yes, let's do it! i'll DM you, graeme.

 

regarding the axles. this is a new topic for me.

 

(1) are you guys suggesting HD axles (a) in the front only (since we are doing the front diff and have to take it apart anyway)? or ( front and rear axles?

FYI i do already have TT in the rear on standard axles.

 

(2) was planning just to put the stock diff in (both Don's and Graeme's are stock diffs, yes?). so with a stock dff i don't really need HD axles, right?

 

(3) i am planning a truetrac for the front but thought i'd just wait to do that after the stock diff swap (because won't i need a diff shop to do that to get accurate measurements/positioning)? but now that i'm writing this, maybe that's dumb ... since to do the diff/TT, you have take apart the hubs and re-seal etc. so why do it twice. hmmm ...

 

(4) i looked at roverware website and they are about $500. am i looking at the right thing?

 

lmk what you think!

If you want to do the TT in the front, you may not need to do that much if you’re going to reuse the ring and pinion gears from the donor third. You definitely won’t have to mess with the pinion measurements, and may not have to shim it to get the correct backlash (play). I put in a TT myself on a gm 10 bolt and the TT was close enough to the stock LSD that I didn’t need to adjust anything. Even if you do need to shim it, it’s not too tricky. I have a meter to measure the backlash and a press for the bearings, it’s simple to do. It’s even easier because it all can be done on a bench top rather than do it on the axle housing itself. I would be willing to help in my garage, I wouldn’t mind doing it for the experience. All you would have to do is bring the third and new parts. It’s an easier job than you might think.

In regards to the HD shafts, I would do it if I were you. Chromolly shafts are very strong and rarely break unless you’re running huge tires. It’s an expense that will give you a lot of peace of mind on trail and an expense you probably won’t have to make twice. I’ve broken stock axles a couple times on trail and it can be a real hassle, especially if you don’t have access to spares. If you plan on going on trails that require lockers, then I’d expect to eventually break one of those stock shafts. It’s a good preventative expense.

 

 

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[DHappel]

My 2-cents

 

I don't think you need HD axles given you are running small tires and aren't going to full lockers.  Our own Mr. Fuller is running stock 24 spline axles with lockers and gets on nicely, though he does break them with some regularity.  At least once a year I'd say, maybe more.  On the positive, the rear are very easy to change (I think his record is less than 10 minutes trail-side) while the fronts are a bit more involved.  They also act as a fuse of sorts - better to break a stock (cheap) axle than a diff!  On the negative, you have to have the parts with you and breaking things is generally a PITA even if it's a quick fix.  I don't see you breaking even stock axles though since you're not a rock crawler, not running fully locked, and not running big tires.  

 

If you are going to upgrade the diff then you also need to think about if you want to stay 10 spline or move to 24 spline.  (I'm assuming you have 10 spline axles now?  I can't keep straight what has what stock)   So it may make sense to do both axles and dif at the same time.  Again, I don't think it's a must-do though.

 

My feeling is get it on the road at minimum cost first then we can plan upgrades.  I'd say get it up to Graeme's place and stick his diff in it.  Let him drive it and report back - he's got a little experience with these things and will be able to give a pretty good assessment of what's what.  From that point we can decide what upgrades or further repairs may be in order.  Even if you end up going back over that work by doing a TT in the front, or HD axles, or whatever, it's not a big cost or major labor job so let's start with that then move forward.

[girlrvr]

hi guys

 

here's a pic of the tranny drain plug that frank took.

presumably, this is not good.

 

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1itVKSwWh9PqrC5HmaxJluPpg7uiSXAWc/view?usp=sharing

 

 

also, the fluid was pretty black (frank said it should be red)(will check records to see when the PO last changed the fluid).

 

the gear oil from from diff was glittery. not chunky. 

 

lmk how this should be interpreted. thx

 

UPDATE:

 

GIRLRVR is parked outside Graeme's and we are gonna work on the diff tomorrow.

Stay tuned for more drama on "As the world fluids turns drip"

[Elherbinator]

hi guys

 

here's a pic of the tranny drain plug that frank took.

presumably, this is not good.

 

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1itVKSwWh9PqrC5HmaxJluPpg7uiSXAWc/view?usp=sharing

 

 

also, the fluid was pretty black (frank said it should be red)(will check records to see when the PO last changed the fluid).

 

the gear oil from from diff was glittery. not chunky.

 

lmk how this should be interpreted. thx

 

UPDATE:

 

GIRLRVR is parked outside Graeme's and we are gonna work on the diff tomorrow.

Stay tuned for more drama on "As the world fluids turns drip"

I wouldn’t worry about the diff, it’s getting changed anyways. The black fluid in the tranny is not good, but I’d focus more on how it is shifting and feels. You might just want to get new fluid in everything and drive for a while until some actually happens. No need to worry about doing any damage to a part that will need replacing either way. Might as well get every mile out of it as you can. Rarely do you see something catastrophic happen to a tranny anyways.

 

 

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[GraemeWare]

hi guys

 

here's a pic of the tranny drain plug that frank took.

presumably, this is not good.

 

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1itVKSwWh9PqrC5HmaxJluPpg7uiSXAWc/view?usp=sharing

 

 

also, the fluid was pretty black (frank said it should be red)(will check records to see when the PO last changed the fluid).

 

the gear oil from from diff was glittery. not chunky. 

 

lmk how this should be interpreted. thx

 

UPDATE:

 

GIRLRVR is parked outside Graeme's and we are gonna work on the diff tomorrow.

Stay tuned for more drama on "As the world fluids turns drip"

Jeanne,

 

I've seen a lot worse (actually, I've driven a lot worse for years without issues). We need to look at this thing (and drive it) before we dive in.

 

Graeme

[girlrvr]

I wouldn’t worry about the diff, it’s getting changed anyways. The black fluid in the tranny is not good, but I’d focus more on how it is shifting and feels. You might just want to get new fluid in everything and drive for a while until some actually happens. No need to worry about doing any damage to a part that will need replacing either way. Might as well get every mile out of it as you can. Rarely do you see something catastrophic happen to a tranny anyways.

 

 

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yup. was gonna change the tran fluid ans tcase oil and see where that gets me (colin's suggestion) :-)

 

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