2013 LR4 Oil change

[jlmoped]

Does the LR4 have a oil change reminder message?  I think the oil change interval is 7500 miles.  I am at about the mileage, but no message.  Should I get the OEM oil filter from the dealer or will this AC Delco filter work?

https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-PF659-Professional-Engine-Filter/dp/B01FRF8K18/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1510590934&sr=8-6&keywords=land+rover+lr4+oil+filter

 

For the oil, is there a difference between the Mobile 1 and Castro?  I have always use Mobile 1 in other vehicle, but I read somewhere Land Rover uses a special Castro oil.

Mobile 1: https://www.amazon.com/Mobil-120765-Extended-Performance-5W-20/dp/B00JTUBP6U/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1510591100&sr=1-4&keywords=mobile+1+synthetic+oil+5w-20

Castro: https://www.amazon.com/Castrol-Extended-Performance-Advanced-Synthetic/dp/B00JGQM1WO/ref=pd_bxgy_263_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=P6KQ0ZXR9FDQ0137DD7H

 

Oil filter wrench: https://www.amazon.com/STEELMAN-06128-Filter-Wrench-Flute/dp/B00KMUM5TW/ref=pd_bxgy_263_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=P6KQ0ZXR9FDQ0137DD7H

 

Does the 5.0 liter V8 take about 8.5 to 9 quarts of oil?  There is no dip stick in the LR4, but I read there is a digital gauge in the dash.  I have a oil suction type tool to suck up the motor oil.  I know it is not as good as the old fashion draining from the bottom, but is a whole lot easier.  Is that ok for the LR4?

 

 

Thanks,

[DHappel]

I prefer to drain the oil via gravity if I can but the suction devices are OK and get 90% of it.  

 

As for a reminder, I'm not sure if the LR4 has one or not.  The LR3 does not have one.  I believe the LR3 is 7500 miles, as is my van.  Both of them get changed at 5000 because a-changing more often isn't going to hurt anything but your wallet and b- it's just easier to remember.

 

Asking about oil is like asking about politics or religion - everybody has an opinion and seldom is it backed up by any facts.  I'm sure Land Rover has a special 'Land Rover Only ' branded oil that they recommend as do many manufacturers - that way they can keep you coming to them for a heavily marked up product.  However they can't deny a warranty claim for oil so long as you are using an oil that meets the API standard specified in your owner's manual and is the correct weight.  I'd have to look but I'd guess the LR4 calls for an SM oil - you'll find that on the 'donut' on the bottle.  Note that the newer API ratings generally supersede the older ones, so SN replaces and can be used in anything before it like SJ, SM, etc.  At least for anything remotely recent.  There are specialty situations with older cars or flat tappet cams, etc.

http://www.api.org/~/media/files/certification/engine-oil-diesel/publications/mom_guide_english_2013.pdf

 

Brand is where the big arguments come in.  A lot of Rover people swear by Shell Rotella or Chevron Dello - those are heavy duty diesel oils that are also rated for gasoline motors (CJ/SM usually where C is for compression ignition and S for spark).  But I would NOT recommend that for a modern motor like your 5.0. In general, any good name brand oil and filter will be fine so long as you keep up on the change interval.  I wouldn't recommend wal-mart oil and filters even though they may be fine, but Castrol, Valvoline, Royal Purple, Amsoil, Mobile1, etc should all be fine for your application.  For filters I happen to use a lot of WIX or Napa Gold filters just because of my business so I also run them on my vehicles, but filters are like a lot of things and are often the same part sold under a lot of different brand names.  I tend to stay away from Fram but that's really down to a single bad experience I had with them years ago.  Of course I recently had 2 Wix filters fail on boat transmissions so who am I to talk?

 

I can't tell you the capacity on the 5.0 (and I hate the lack of dipsticks on modern cars - that's just stupid) but your manual should tell you or at least Google.  BTW, without a dipstick how will you use the vacuum pump to suck the oil out?  The ones I have go down the dipstick tube.  You won't be able to stick the tube down the oil fill cap to reach the pan.  

 

On the wrench, I really don't like the type you linked as they only fit a single filter and can't be used for anything else.  I have a full set of Channel Lock filter wrenches that I use for work since I cover everything from tiny little filters to huge ones almost the size of a 2 liter bottle.  The smaller pair (9") should work well for you.  When using this type wrench the key is not to grab the filter in the middle where you can crush it.  Try to grab close to the base or if you can't get it there very close to the end - either area is much stronger than the middle of the can.

 

https://www.amazon.com/Channellock-209-9-Inch-Filter-Plier/dp/B0009WG5SU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1510618948&sr=8-2&keywords=channellock+filter+pliers

 

I'm happy to help you do the oil change at my place if you like.  We can put it on the lift and drain the oil that way instead of sucking it out from the top.  I prefer this as it lets me see if there's anything scary on the drain plug when I pull it out.  Any metal or water will show up here first.

[Jethro]

I have the 2011 and it is set to 15k miles.

 

 

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[DHappel]

I have the 2011 and it is set to 15k miles.

 

 

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If you have a moment, scan the owner's manual and see if they don't make that interval shorter for 'severe duty', then see what constitutes 'severe'.  I know a lot of modern vehicles list very long change intervals but when you read the fine print they shorten the interval under heavy use.  Heavy might be anything from routine stop and go traffic to towing to off-road use...

 

I don't subscribe to the old 3000 mile intervals, but I'm not ready to go to the 15K change just yet either.  If I were, then I would start to consider going with synthetic oils.

[DHappel]

Hmmm....I just looked up some info on the LR4 and see the 5.0 uses a cartridge style filter and has a built-in suction port.  So you may want to ignore my filter pliers recommendation.   I'd have to see the actual installation to know if they would work or not.

 

It also looks like there is an oil change service light on the dash that you'll want to reset.  A dealer can do it (for a small fee...) or I'm pretty sure you can do it with a GAP tool.  Likely some of the other OBD2 Rover-specific tools can do it as well like the i-Land.  

 

I also did some digging on the factory spec for the oil and it looks like it's a Ford spec:  WSS-M2C925-A  

That seems to have been superceded by some newer specs, and in turn seems to be just a Ford specific re-branding of a normal over-the-counter GL spec.

 

The gen-u-wine recommended oil is Castrol Edge Professional 5w20 from my reading.  Conveniently it is not sold over the counter but only to dealerships.  Mostly the spec seems to be to get them to the 15K mile oil change interval.  In all honesty if you move to a more typical 5 or 10K change most any top tier 5w20 synthetic should work fine.    

 

But if you want to be extra safe (2 condoms, mother on speed dial, engage safety squints...) Liquid Molly makes an oil specifically listed under that spec:

 

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013JM76YS?tag=vglnkc4185-20

 

$33/5 liter jug and free shipping.  The 5.0 Jag/LR motor calls for 8 liters (about 8.5 qts), though I understand that is the 'new fill' volume and a drain and fill won't quite use that much as there will always be a little oil left in the engine when draining either by gravity or vacuum.  With that in mind I'd either look at how much oil I extracted in my suction device and put that much back into the engine then check it with the dash gauge, once before starting and again after running it a couple minutes.  (I bet there's a specific procedure in the manual... )  In the end I'd bet you use about 8 qts instead of 8 liters. 

[alpaca]

This is what mobil1 site says about 2012 5l

“

Based on what you've told us, your vehicle manufacturer recommends a 5W-20 viscosity and oil that meets Ford WSS M2C925-A. We currently do not offer any motor oils in the United States that meet these specifications.â€

 

Castrol site says “it requires a special oil†...ie you have to pay through the nose at the dealer

 

 

Don is right that any api graded 5w20 would do fine - especially if you change at < 10k miles. I wouldn’t go further than that even if oem says it is ok - oil is cheap compared to a new engine. The ford spec makes sure oil can go 15k ... and there are some versions of mobil1 with enough additives for that - 5w20EP for example (but not necessarily tested to the ford spec for marketing / cost reasons). That stuff should be relatively cheap at Walmart.

 

As for filter - I would avoid the cheap auto store ones. For those cartridge types - I’d get Mann or mahle from rock auto or amazon. The cheap filters can definitely degrade on longer drain intervals.

 

The YouTube video shows him sucking oil out from an atttachment under the fill cap.

 

I’ve used suction method on Mercedes and bmw with good results - I think the dealers do it these days too. The big advantage is it is easy without lift - and clean. No need to drop heavy sump guards etc. but for the pureists - it is goood to check for leaks underneath and look at debris on oil plug.

 

Make sure you replace/lube filter gaskets and understand where the gasket sits on filter cap - first time I did that type - it is not obvious that it does not sit all the way to top of the threads on the cap , but rather in the channel below the top groove. They normally also supply smaller gaskets for the bottom of the plastic spindle on the filter holder. Remove the old ones with a screw driver or pic tool.

 

I just changed the oil in my daughters car with the pump in la - found out Southwest Airlines would not let me fly back with the pump that had oil residue in it

 

Have fun

[DHappel]

To summarize:  I'd be fine running either of the oils you linked in the first post

[DHappel]

 found out Southwest Airlines would not let me fly back with the pump that had oil residue in it

 

 

HazMat!  Call out the EPA!  Close down the runway!  

 

I've had problems flying with automotive chemicals before on Alaska.  i suspect my name is on a list somewhere...

 

Funny story - trying to drop off used oil at the Alameda County recycle center a few years ago I had a couple 5 gallon jugs tied in the back of my truck.  I just wanted to dump them and be on my way but they wouldn't even let me get out of the vehicle - they had guys in full bunny suites take the oil out of the back and refused to give me back the old jugs.  You'd have thought it was nuclear waste.  Gee guys, how do you think I got the oil into the buckets and then into the truck to start with?  Magic?  

 

I don't go there anymore...  

[erinw.rrc]

With as much crap as I've had to deal with on my truck the last few weeks.  I'm sticking with my mechanic on the regular maintenance on mine.  It's too much of a hassle with these newer trucks.  My mechanic uses a synthetic Castrol oil in the LR4 (I'll check the label when I get home as he gave me two quarts to take on the rally - it's most likely the one that Don mentioned)... turns what I should have brought was a whole new front end suspension.  

[alpaca]

What happened to the front end ?

[DHappel]

With as much crap as I've had to deal with on my truck the last few weeks.  I'm sticking with my mechanic on the regular maintenance on mine.  It's too much of a hassle with these newer trucks.  My mechanic uses a synthetic Castrol oil in the LR4 (I'll check the label when I get home as he gave me two quarts to take on the rally - it's most likely the one that Don mentioned)... turns what I should have brought was a whole new front end suspension.  

I almost want to enter this rally with my LR3 just to prove it can be done with air suspension....

 

If I wear a wig do you think they'll let me in? 

[alpaca]

I almost want to enter this rally with my LR3 just to prove it can be done with air suspension....

 

If I wear a wig do you think they'll let me in? 

Maybe + lipstick and a skirt ...

[AdvRovr]

HazMat! Call out the EPA! Close down the runway!

 

I've had problems flying with automotive chemicals before on Alaska. i suspect my name is on a list somewhere...

 

Funny story - trying to drop off used oil at the Alameda County recycle center a few years ago I had a couple 5 gallon jugs tied in the back of my truck. I just wanted to dump them and be on my way but they wouldn't even let me get out of the vehicle - they had guys in full bunny suites take the oil out of the back and refused to give me back the old jugs. You'd have thought it was nuclear waste. Gee guys, how do you think I got the oil into the buckets and then into the truck to start with? Magic?

 

I don't go there anymore...

San Joaquin county is the same, but I actually really love not having the dirty containers. Give em the old ones, they give you back some brand new clean ones, and you're on your way.

 

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[DHappel]

They gave you back new ones?  Sure - that would be great!  But in Alameda it was drop off and wave goodbye.  Since I use 5 gallon buckets to collect my oil oil but usually buy oil in 1 and 2.5 gallon jugs I have to re-use my 5s as much as I can.  I wasn't happy about that!

[AdvRovr]

They gave you back new ones? Sure - that would be great! But in Alameda it was drop off and wave goodbye. Since I use 5 gallon buckets to collect my oil oil but usually buy oil in 1 and 2.5 gallon jugs I have to re-use my 5s as much as I can. I wasn't happy about that!

Yep, brand new rectangular combo drain pan/buckets. It's about 5 miles further to the county drop off than my local Oreilly, but I don't have to clean up a messy drain pan. Lol. I would throw a fit if they tried to take my drain pan away without anything in return.

 

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[jlmoped]

I got all the supplies from Amazon (Mobile 1 5w-20 Extended Protection, OEM oil filter and 90mm filter cap wrench) and did the oil change last night.  I called my garage company and they sent me 3x 1-gallon screw-cap milk bottles and a zip lock oil filter bag for recycle.  This time I got 3 new bottles, sometime I got dirty used ones.

 

The whole process took me 2 hours because of some extra steps I did.  Because of the RTT, I couldn't get the truck inside the garage, so I drove the front wheels into the garage and jacked up the rear end so the truck was level (when the front end was higher, oil level show it was over filled).  Checked the oil level again and it was "full".

 

I used the vacuum method to suck up the oil and unscrewed the oil filter cap by 3 turns (Youtube told me so, not sure that really help with suction).  Drained out 5 quart of oil, stopped, dump out the oil.  Then sucked up another 3 quarts.  Then I removed the oil filter and sucked up the oil in the oil filter area.  I poured 1/8 quart of fresh oil into the oil filter area and in the engine to flush out some of the dirty oil.  The new oil that came out was also black, so I am not sure flushing with new oil really helped.  While I had a few things uncovered, I vacuum out the souvenir I collected from Oceano Dunes.  Both air filter trays had some sand inside.

 

Lubed the oil filter gaskets, put in 5 quarts of oil, check oil level, it said not enough to show oil level.  Filled it to 7 quart, it said I needed 1 more quart.  Filled with total 8 quarts and it was happy.  Start the engine and no leak.  Used a wet cloth to wipe down the engine compartment cover and other plastic parts.  Removed the jack stands.  Done.

 

I also installed the Frontrunner ratcheting shovel mount.  The plastic strap was stiffer than I expected.  Mounting procedure was not convenient.  The bracket had to go into specific locations, not anyway on the rails.  The nuts and bolts provided make installation angle difficult to reach.  After it was all mounted I found out the curve of the shovel shaft hit the rack, so had to uninstall the bracket and started over.  The ratchet didn't because advance the strap to the next position.  When it was all done, it held the shovel tighter than the Quick Fist Clamp, so I am happy with it.  I give it 7/10 for quality and function, 4/10 for ease of installation, 7/10 for value.  It is a bit expensive for what it does.

 

Thank you all for giving the oil change advises.