Teds Posted September 14, 2015 Report Share Posted September 14, 2015 After spending a few weeks working on the head gasket, had the heads cleaned, valve job, resurfaced, installed new ARP head studs, cleaned everything up and put her back together, she fired up but then started leaking coolant from behind the passenger side bank of cylinders, same place where I suspected the head gasket was an issue. I am thinking my block is warped. For those of you with more knowledge, what are my options? can I shave the block if the sleeves are OK? Should I get the bottom end rebuilt? I am very frustrated right now and may part her out and sell her. I think I can get more money for parts than if I fix her and then sell her running. I already dropped a grand into parts and head work which may be wasted. HELP!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
El Solis Posted September 14, 2015 Report Share Posted September 14, 2015 Buy that sweet 93 LWB RRC and when it's 220,000 mile engine goes boom you can buy the 100,000 (10,000 miles on top end rebuild) 4.2 engine I have. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JFuller Posted September 14, 2015 Report Share Posted September 14, 2015 Sounds like you definetly need to take a look at the block and maybe the heads again. We're the heads checked for cracks when they were decked? Did you check the heads with a straight edge to be sure the shop that did it didn't screw it up? If the heads are ok then you need to check the block for cracks or warping. If it's warped you would need to know how far it out and what's left to grind if it's been done before (not likely). If you don't have the tools for that the. It means taking the block to a machine shop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DHappel Posted September 14, 2015 Report Share Posted September 14, 2015 I've never tried to have a liner block decked. Wouldn't you also have to take an equal amount off the liners? At a minimum it sounds like the motor needs to come out and the heads off again so you can get a straight edge and feeler gauge on things as well as get a good eyeball on the suspect area for signs of a crack. The 'right' way to do it of course would be at the machine shop, but a good straight edge is at least a start. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GraemeWare Posted September 14, 2015 Report Share Posted September 14, 2015 After spending a few weeks working on the head gasket, had the heads cleaned, valve job, resurfaced, installed new ARP head studs, cleaned everything up and put her back together, she fired up but then started leaking coolant from behind the passenger side bank of cylinders, same place where I suspected the head gasket was an issue. I am thinking my block is warped. For those of you with more knowledge, what are my options? can I shave the block if the sleeves are OK? Should I get the bottom end rebuilt? I am very frustrated right now and may part her out and sell her. I think I can get more money for parts than if I fix her and then sell her running. I already dropped a grand into parts and head work which may be wasted. HELP!! That is the most likely place to not seal, as the gasket is about 1/8" there. Also, sometimes corrosion causes a roughness on the block surface. Questions: 1. What gasket did you use (which make)? Did it have some (normally) red beads of sealer in that area?2. What did you degrease the top of the block with? Regards, Graeme Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Teds Posted September 15, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 15, 2015 i cleaned the block as best I could, but maybe missed something. I didn't check for warpage though like I should have. I am pretty confident in the machine shop as it is the same one that Rocklin Rover uses. I need to take the head off the passenger bank and take another look. Glad I used ARP studs as they can be reused unlike the head bolts. This is also complicated by a kitchen remodel that needs the garage this week. So I may be taking her apart in the driveway, which unfortunately is at an angle, or wait until the weekend so I can put her back in the garage backwards in order to get a cherry picker in if I need to pull the engine. Ugh... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Teds Posted September 15, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 15, 2015 Buy that sweet 93 LWB RRC and when it's 220,000 mile engine goes boom you can buy the 100,000 (10,000 miles on top end rebuild) 4.2 engine I have.LOL...as much as I like the older rovers, this trip to Moab last week really sold me on the newer generation. With just Johnson rods and good tires, we ran Hells Revenge and Elephant Hill in my LR3 and a RR sport without any issues. Some incredibly steep terrain and ledges. They performed amazingly on the trail and then cruised home at 80+. I have a lot of work into my P38 so I don't want to give up on her yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
El Solis Posted September 15, 2015 Report Share Posted September 15, 2015 Whew...I was suggesting that only as the neighborly thing to do. I want it (it would cost me waaaay more than asking price on the home front) as I already have that 100,000 mile drivetrain (engine, transmission, t case) to slap in when it all goes boom. If it was $2000 it'd be mine. (Last statement is my feeble attempt to maintain my man card as we all know it ain't up to us. Let this be a reminder of how life is, just change out go to bar to whatever you want:https://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09/14/e2476668efd9ca710f42a6b3d3c5ac11.jpg) Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alpaca Posted September 15, 2015 Report Share Posted September 15, 2015 What tires were you using on the sport ? Rods on that too ? And removed front air dam ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justin Posted September 15, 2015 Report Share Posted September 15, 2015 Get ahold of Mothers Machine Shop in FairOaks, They're my go to shop for sleeving or honing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Teds Posted September 16, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 16, 2015 Get ahold of Mothers Machine Shop in FairOaks, They're my go to shop for sleeving or honingThanks justin. I will start taking it apart this week. My garage is a painting booth right now for our kitchen cabinets. Bad timing for everything... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Teds Posted September 16, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 16, 2015 What tires were you using on the sport ? Rods on that too ? And removed front air dam ?Tires are 275 55 r20 (I think) BFG AT KO2s. They look fantastic and we're just released. Grippy and ran great on highway. Johnson rods were out on in standard 2 inch size. His supercharger 515hp RRS has the electronic locking diff and was noticeable in a few sections where I had to make a couple of attempts. I would get the ARB locking diff for anything serious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Teds Posted September 16, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 16, 2015 Confirmed size as 275 55 r20s BFGs. The tires I would buy if I needed them. Check out a few pics: www.speichers.com/2015_moab1.htm Back to my engine saga... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Teds Posted September 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 23, 2015 Looks like it was just a coolant pipe o-ring! See 'P38 Lives Again' for more info. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psykokid Posted September 24, 2015 Report Share Posted September 24, 2015 Congrats! Good to see that it's arisen again like a phoenix from the ashes! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomOwen Posted September 25, 2015 Report Share Posted September 25, 2015 https://youtu.be/QuoKNZjr8_U?t=20s Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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