Guest Pedram Posted December 17, 2014 Report Share Posted December 17, 2014 The land rover hood pin switch is for the alarm only. Not sure if you want to mess with that one. But you can purchase another switch for that purpose. If you look at a RRC they use a standard door pin switch. So there's an idea. Every D1 has 5 of them. Justin might be able to collect a few for you guys. LED strips only have two wires. Pos and neg. No switch or other circuits. But there are ways my friends. If you need assistance with any electrical stuff I can possibly build or help build one. The key is to install these lights to face down into the engine bay and not blind you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomOwen Posted December 17, 2014 Report Share Posted December 17, 2014 Thanks P, I was wondering if was easy to use the existing pin switch, likely not. But as you say, easy enough to add one. I was looking at placement and 3 options came to mind. One is along some aluminum straps I have placed in a "V" shape from the rear of the hood, by glass toward the front. Can easily attach to those and let them shine down (the angle of the open hood) but my concern is heat as they are directly above the motor/manifolds when hood is closed. The 2nd option is along the rearward facing edge of the forward sub structure of the hood. (Huh?) You know the cross pice where the latch is and the rod hangs? yea, that piece. on the back side shining down on the engine bay… cool huh? third option for me is to attach to the angled edge portion of the hood insulation (yes, I still have mine) shining from the edge of the too down towards either side of the engine… Thoughts/experience with any of these? Likely just run these directly to a power supply through a hood switch vs. toggle Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
El Solis Posted December 17, 2014 Report Share Posted December 17, 2014 So i stuck them on the cool side of the engine (away from the turbo). Then i riveted in some "P" clips to hold them in case the adhesive failed. I ran them to a switch on the dash but if you want a hood pin switch which should work i have one laying around. [ATTACH]5733[/ATTACH][ATTACH]5734[/ATTACH][ATTACH]5735[/ATTACH] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
El Solis Posted December 17, 2014 Report Share Posted December 17, 2014 Oh that mud looking stuff if strip caulking to help hold it in place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GraemeWare Posted December 18, 2014 Report Share Posted December 18, 2014 I was wondering if was easy to use the existing pin switch, likely not. Very easy ... add one diode. Graeme Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Pedram Posted December 18, 2014 Report Share Posted December 18, 2014 Tom you can run your lights in the front near the latch. Face them back towards the windshield so it lays flat on that surface. The heat won't damage anything. I have mine in that location but I don't take any pictures. Justin has my truck. I have a light switch loosely fitted next to my fuse box. I never got around to making a solid mounting surface yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Disco2Guy Posted December 18, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 18, 2014 Pedram, I'm going to look at your engine light setup on Saturday. When you were pointing out that location on my truck, did the angle of the hood section look the same as yours? Ideally I'd like to have them running along the hood like Chris', but the whole thing is covered with the insulation. I would ditch it and use Dynamat but the insulation holds the washer hoses. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
El Solis Posted December 18, 2014 Report Share Posted December 18, 2014 B there is no obstacle that can't be overcome by using duct tape or WD-40. I'm sure we can find a way to deal with the washer hoses [ATTACH]5736[/ATTACH] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomOwen Posted December 18, 2014 Report Share Posted December 18, 2014 Pedram, I'm going to look at your engine light setup on Saturday. When you were pointing out that location on my truck, did the angle of the hood section look the same as yours? Ideally I'd like to have them running along the hood like Chris', but the whole thing is covered with the insulation. I would ditch it and use Dynamat but the insulation holds the washer hoses. B,I went looking at mounting locations under the hood last night and think this is the best. I too still have the insulation and was there is a section along the sides that angles towards the center. Also, I have aluminum straps (holding the insulation in place) that would make for an easy mount, and the backside of the forward "cross member/sub structure" to the hood. The most obvious discovery to me was that in the first two locations, the lights are partially pointing forward (hood up) and create a lot of forward glare (read: shining in my eyes). On the back side of the forward edge, no glare from lights and they spread broadly over the engine bay. I think if I lean over the front to attend to an issue (serp belt, etc.. I would cast a shadow on the work, but coming at it from the side would be OK. I'm using a pair of DRL strips with about 9-10 LEDs and didn't feel they were bright enough.. Maybe either a brighter set or a longer strip like Chris' - hell for that matter let's run a strip around the entire perimeter of the hood ;-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Pedram Posted December 18, 2014 Report Share Posted December 18, 2014 I think you need every square inch covered. No shadows. Just layers of strips. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ROVRMAN2 Posted December 21, 2014 Report Share Posted December 21, 2014 What's the stock number on the blue sea fuse block? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedRover Posted December 22, 2014 Report Share Posted December 22, 2014 Here are a few pics from the day. I saw this at BushingFest (LR)3 -- you guys did a really nice install (great custom bracket) and while I don't have nearly the number of new wires in the Red Rover, I do like how clean that looks and might install another Blue Sea box in the engine compartment. Currently I have one back where the spare tire is. I ran 10ga. out to it and the Ham radio + fridge run through it -- just like Ted, I cut off those 12v barrels and wired in the PowerPoles. Most people probably know this but Anderson PowerPoles come with a little black retaining clip so if you plug two PowerPole connectors together, you can then push the clip in and washboards are no match. They actually do great w/o the clips in place as well. -Jared Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Pedram Posted December 22, 2014 Report Share Posted December 22, 2014 What's the stock number on the blue sea fuse block? Here is one similar to Brenton's http://shop.pkys.com/product.asp?itemid=1615&gclid=Cj0KEQiAn9-kBRDloNeUw7Pe_YwBEiQA4HXMU-A01C57aQa0g34alzSYaQ1G5LQyg6fHdIfD36YjDYQaAqKY8P8HAQ There are a few different styles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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