Disco2Guy Posted December 15, 2014 Report Share Posted December 15, 2014 There were so many terminals on the aux post of the battery, it looked like a squashed octopus. It was time to get this fuse block and get the wires off the battery. I grabbed 5' (each) of red and black 4 AWG cable, a 125 amp MEGA fuse and holder from NAPA. I don't have a clear pic of that fuse location, but it's mounted to the inside of the hydraulic jack compartment. You can see the bolts sticking out in one of the pics. The location was tricky to determine, mainly because of the SAI pump on the firewall taking all the good space. I decided to use the 2 bolts at the end of the main fuse box as a mounting point for a bracket. That's where Pedram comes into the picture. I sent him a pic of where it should be mounted, and we got together today. It was just going to be making the bracket and hooking the block to the battery, but instead we started by rewiring everything first. Pedram had the good idea to relocate the relays on an extension of the bracket, which wound up making the whole install cleaner. No complications except for one of the HIDs on the roof rack must have an internal short. This started on the Lost Coast trip. When I got home, I was able to isolate which light (outer driver) had the short, and thought it was in one of my terminal connections. The connections were re-made today, but the fuse would still blow for that one light. The light will have to be removed and inspected to confirm and (hopefully) find the short. Now that it's installed, the next step is to get the ARB fridge wired to a constant power supply, a mobile HAM rig (the Yaseu FT-8800), and 20" light bar in front of the winch. Here are a few pics from the day. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
El Solis Posted December 15, 2014 Report Share Posted December 15, 2014 I love those fuse blocks. I have 3 in the CT, crazy but they work! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Disco2Guy Posted December 15, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 15, 2014 Whoa, I didn't know you have that many! Are they all in the little Pelican cases? That's my favorite part of your wiring:) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
El Solis Posted December 15, 2014 Report Share Posted December 15, 2014 Naw, just the one. I have one in the engine bay and one in the center cubby Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomOwen Posted December 15, 2014 Report Share Posted December 15, 2014 Looks great Brenton! My OCD Approves!! :-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Disco2Guy Posted December 15, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 15, 2014 Haha, mine does as well:) Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Pedram Posted December 16, 2014 Report Share Posted December 16, 2014 I think that Brenton stayed over at my "Shop" because I did what he would of wanted done in the first place. It's funny because before Sunday you could see a cluster of wires going to the battery and about 15 ground wires mixed in there. After I finished Sunday night it looked like a very organized mess. I would of spent more time popping fuses and ziptieing but Brenton had to leave with some yummy pizza leftovers. I almost installed the light bar. But he now has space for another relay and now has to figure out where to stuff more wires into that firewall. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Pedram Posted December 16, 2014 Report Share Posted December 16, 2014 I also wish blue sea would of made a multi relay box like this. I don't know why they haven't come up with this yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DHappel Posted December 16, 2014 Report Share Posted December 16, 2014 You know, I don't think I've ever seen a multi-relay box like that in the marine world. And I doubt I will in the future as we're moving away from discrete systems and toward integrated stuff that's more of a PITA to work on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Teds Posted December 16, 2014 Report Share Posted December 16, 2014 I did a Blue Sea fusebox in the rear of the P38 and plan to do one in the LR3. If you want to run the ARB, I suggest you run a 10g wire (minimum size) to the rear for a dedicated connection and the 12v plugs are crap on washboards. I switched to Anderson plugs and they are much more secure. http://www.speichers.com/pictures/rover/rr_12v_anderson_wires.jpg (I can't open the 'add image' pop-up on my MS Surface. Link to pic above) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Pedram Posted December 16, 2014 Report Share Posted December 16, 2014 Brenton already has about 6 open connections in the engine bay for more accessories. So we can just run a 10-8 gauge wire back and leave the fuses up front. Maybe if he needs more power in the rear we can run a distribution block for that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
El Solis Posted December 16, 2014 Report Share Posted December 16, 2014 This is how I ended up with 3. Needed front, center and rear power Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Pedram Posted December 16, 2014 Report Share Posted December 16, 2014 This is how I ended up with 3. Needed front, center and rear power I've seen your handy work doc..... Lolhttp://i1286.photobucket.com/albums/a618/PBastan/P-Fab/Chris%20Solis/IMG_20140128_161323_zps9tedjg67.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Disco2Guy Posted December 16, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 16, 2014 I did a Blue Sea fusebox in the rear of the P38 and plan to do one in the LR3. If you want to run the ARB, I suggest you run a 10g wire (minimum size) to the rear for a dedicated connection and the 12v plugs are crap on washboards. I switched to Anderson plugs and they are much more secure. http://www.speichers.com/pictures/rover/rr_12v_anderson_wires.jpg (I can't open the 'add image' pop-up on my MS Surface. Link to pic above) Hmmm, I might switch the plugs, but to be honest, I've never had an issue with the plug coming loose. The ARB was installed just before the 2013 DV trip, survived the trip from Lippencott Grade to the Hot Springs without issue and continues to do so. BUT, not having to worry about it is probably a good idea. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DHappel Posted December 17, 2014 Report Share Posted December 17, 2014 I did a Blue Sea fusebox in the rear of the P38 and plan to do one in the LR3. If you want to run the ARB, I suggest you run a 10g wire (minimum size) to the rear for a dedicated connection and the 12v plugs are crap on washboards. I switched to Anderson plugs and they are much more secure. http://www.speichers.com/pictures/rover/rr_12v_anderson_wires.jpg (I can't open the 'add image' pop-up on my MS Surface. Link to pic above) I'll second this. I did OK with the stock 12v plug in the rear of the console for a while but then it started getting flakey. Switched it out to power poles and haven't given it a second thought since. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
El Solis Posted December 17, 2014 Report Share Posted December 17, 2014 that takes me back a dark time in my rover history, dash electrical fire, spent my 2 WEEK VACATION fixing it, but I made it to Shaver and knock on wood, no more fires! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Pedram Posted December 17, 2014 Report Share Posted December 17, 2014 One thing that most don't realize is that your CT has the main battery underneath your drivers seat. Which makes running power in the engine bay fun. So you need at least two of these. The third is a bonus. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
El Solis Posted December 17, 2014 Report Share Posted December 17, 2014 True that. Also, my headlights were powered through the switch on the steering column which made them weak. Now i use the same system but added relays for H-L and ran 1 power wire to the fuse block. The center was for the HAM radio and the usb/12v sockets and B's fav the pelican case in the rear is for the CB, fan, work lights etc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Pedram Posted December 17, 2014 Report Share Posted December 17, 2014 Given land rover electronics are weak up until the LR3, I have to say do what ever works. Lucus didn't help either. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Disco2Guy Posted December 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 17, 2014 Weak electronics include not having a light under the hood. Those are also on the list of things to plug into the new fuse block. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
El Solis Posted December 17, 2014 Report Share Posted December 17, 2014 LED strip light son Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Disco2Guy Posted December 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 17, 2014 That's the plan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Pedram Posted December 17, 2014 Report Share Posted December 17, 2014 I have what you need. Ledram to the rescue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Disco2Guy Posted December 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 17, 2014 Do the led strips just use adhesive to attach? And, do they have a built in on/off switch? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomOwen Posted December 17, 2014 Report Share Posted December 17, 2014 Anyway to tie these to the existing hood pin-switch? Not sure if that pin is throwing a ground or closing a circuit but would be cool to have it activate the under hood lights. Hmm maybe I have finally found a use for a couple strips of DRL LED's... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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