DHappel

I forgot something I need for a job tomorrow so I had to come home this evening. Took the opportunity to replace the schrader valve on my Road Shower that had been nailed by a tree branch and bent up making the tank unable to pressurize. You would think this would be the work of about 2 minutes, but on the first gen units they used a funky metric thread size that I've never seen. They do offer it as a repair part on their website so that's good, but instead I drilled and tapped it for 1/8" NPT and installed a standard part that I can easily replace if I need to again.

But....where's the winch?

oooohhhhhh....Stylish!

Fixed it for you.

Got the new winch line spooled on complete with big a$$ hook. Cleaned the air filter as well. Made a 50' extension up out of the old line. Also got the D1 out and hosed it down in preparation for it's debut next weekend. Tomorrow I think I'll actually clean up the LR3. It's getting pretty scuzzy as I haven't cleaned the inside since before the Sierra run. I should also replace the cabin filter while I'm at it.

I stayed home today under the auspice of doing office work. I did get a little done, but mostly I got the old bashed up/pieced together exhaust on the LR3 replaced with a complete cad-back stock system I got from British Recyclers. That wouldn't be all that hard, except it's all one piece and I have two supports welded in place for my rear bumper that go under the rear mufflers. So I had to cut them out, hang the new exhaust, then weld the supports back in. All done, but I'll still need to touch up some paint that got burnt while welding. And that's why I use Rustoleum instead of powdercoat. That done, I moved on to replacing my winch line. I got the old one off but will make up the new one tonight following Brenton's splicing videos on YouTube. I think it was about due- http://i816.photobucket.com/albums/zz85/zelatore/07%20Land%20Rover%20LR3/IMG_20160923_145108216_zpsfvvivs4f.jpg

FEQ....been there, regretted it.

Wow, the ring and pinion aren't THAT bad, but the spiders are full of Win!

If you're only seeing 4400 with a 21", a 19" should still keep you in the recommended RPM range and certainly help the hole shot. The spitball number I use is 200 rpm/inch, though that's for big inboards not sterndrives. Of course props are as much black magic as science. 3 blade? 4? How about 5? Cup or not? Labbed? Big ear? Cleaver? The options are limitless. I'd offer to let you try one of my props but their for Bravos and way to big. I think I have a 28" 3 blade as my last prop but I was bouncing that on the limiter so I'll have to step up when the time comes. One of these days...the Rovers have sort of taken over all my discretionary time/money and the bikes and boats have drifted to the bottom of the interest list. Sad actually.

Wow - just noticed that. It is really far back. What's the deal with that I wonder? On the prop, what max RPM are you pulling? I think the 4.3 should be 4400-4800 at WOT. 21" doesn't sound like too much off the top of my head but there are a bunch of different Alpha gear ratios over the years and I don't know them all that well. I'd make sure the carb is fully sorted before playing with the prop too much, but you could also go from a 3 to a 4 blade for more hole-shot. Keep this up and you'll inspire me to put the motor back in the Donzi and go play at the lake.

Looks nice. I like the low-profile look. How's the Crownline treating you?

Since we cancelled the eastern Sierra run I spent the weekend tinkering. Yesterday I replaced the front right strut. I still had my orriginal in it from last year when I broke the Arrnott on the trail. I've had a new version of the Arrnott sitting here waiting to go in and I noticed recently that my stock 130K mile part was over-extending on full droop letting the upper arm rub against the aluminum bag sleeve. Given enough time that would eventually rub through the aluminum then the air bag would go very soon after. I also received the new half-shaft nut I'd been waiting on so I put the new shaft in that same right front. And for good measure I swapped out my nearly new (1000-ish miles) EBC 7000-series green stuff pad for Hawk pads. The EBCs had been a big dissapointment both in stopping power (no better than stock it seemed) and mostly in noise as they squealed like crazy when warm. Hopefully the Hawks will do better. Today I've been installing my roof rack flooring which I expected to be a quick and easy thing but I've ended up re-doing all my mounts for axe, shovel, tent, Road Shower, and adding a couple extra tie downs for anything random to be carried in the future. It will be much harder to add more after the flooring is mounted so I figured I should go ahead and put them all in now. I'm still waiting on some paint to dry before finishing this project. Oh, and I replaced the cabin air filter.

Today I planned to replace the only orriginal half shaft (passenger front) left on my LR3. Ordered one from Lucky8 (OEM) and had it here ready to go. Only to find out they forgot to send the stub axle nut and this being an updated part, the old nut doesn't fit. Funny, you'd think they'd know this given I ran into exactly the same issue last year when I replaced the other side.... So instead I changed the oil, changed the air filter, made a new antenna mount (old one was bending in trees too easily) dropped my armor to trim the frame horns back a bit more, and while the armor was off went ahead and gave it a coat of paint. Since I'm actually going to be home the next couple nights, I'll change the cabin air filter and hopefully get that missing nut overnighted out so I can go ahead and replace the half shaft, then I'll re-install the armor and antenna.

Replaced the steering rack on the LR3 today. Not too bad a job, but did take some fiddling to actually get it out and the new one back in place. The only bad part was after hooking the new one up I got carried away triple checking things on the rack prior to starting the truck to bleed the power steering. When I started it, a geyser of oil shot out. Oops...I sort of forgot I had removed the oil filter to make room to get the rack out. You'd be surprised how far and how much oil can shoot out of a Rover motor in only a few seconds. Oiled down Hello Kitty that was parked on the other side of the driveway. And for pervs among you, that's not as interesting as it sounds.

This deserves it's own thread. Chad, what brand is the 2-post you're using? I assume it's a decent quality as it's being used by a professional shop. There is no question a 4-post is faster and easier to use but it's more limited. Want to lift a body off? Not going to do that on a 4-post. Want to change a tire? You'll need additional equipment like bridges and jacks. Access to the entire underbody is more limited by the 18-20" wide ramps so suspension work and the like is tougher. On the other hand you don't need to worry about the slab (you may need to cut out and re-pour the area where you're going to install a 2-post if your slab isn't designed for it). Heck, some 4-posts can even be moved around with a car on them. And for simple maintenance jobs like changing oil its just point and shoot simple. And it's generally safer since you don't need to worry about balancing the car on it. I'm planning to go with a 2-post to start and may eventually add a 2nd 4 post later. The idea is I could roll the 4-post outside to get under the truck and clean it up!

Would you like some links to lift companies.... My advice - whatever brand you go with spend a few hundred extra and go bigger than you think you'll need. I'm looking at 9 or 10,000lb untis myself. 12' ceilings in a residential garage? How did you find that?

But honey, we need to sell these 35" tires now while they've still got lots of tread so we can get the best return on them. That'll work, right?

Well, the 33s lasted what - a year? You know he's gonna do it, it's just a matter of time.

Only small things today on the LR3. Found a bent pin in the front brake wear connector causing a false reading and straightened it out. Tightened a couple of loose bolts on the driver's side exhaust manifold that were causing an annoying leak. NOT the easiest things to get to! Removed the RoadShower - need to have a crack welded up Removed the roof rack mounts for the (now busted) traction jacks. Tested highway driving at stock road height with the 33" tires - OK but will rub slightly at just the right amount of steering input. Should be fine for highway driving and may give a bit more mpg due to less airflow under the rig.

You may need to take a welding torch to the back side of your mechanic to get him moving a little faster!

Replaced the inner and outer tie rods on the steering of the LR3. Turns out the loose joint I was feeling wasn't so much bad as a loose connection to the rack - probably didn't have to do them after all but it's done and now I have spares. Tomorrow it get's a fresh 4-wheel alignment. Maybe Sunday I'll drop the armor and do some painting. Getting pretty beat up and needs to be touched up to avoid rust.

Dayum.....hope the kids weren't within earshot when that happened. Story?

There is no situation where 'heater core' is a good term.

Spent a good hour with the pressure washer on mud eradication duty. Then did front brakes and took a tire with a big chunk out of the sidewall in for replacement.

Got an engine hoist? Just throw a chain on the wheel and start jacking.