DHappel

Man, and to think I'm too lazy to even hose the mud off my D1 from the last trip to PC.

What a joy....much easier to just get rid of all those new-fangled electrical gadgets don't you think? (says the man with an LR3...)

I like my FR ladder as well - inexpensive, easy to install, and has held up well over the years. I give it two thumbs up.

I do like the low-profile look of that rack. The rear looks a lot like my Urban Offroad but I don't have that wrap around wind fairing at the front.

Looking nice!

I can't speak for the L322, but the L319 chassis certainly likes to eat bushings. 10 years would be a long service life for them.

Glad you had the part with you. I recall loosing a tensioner on an old Ford Lightning a few years back, though I was close enough to home to limp it back.

Yeah...I'm no fan of mud. Yet I'm heading to PC tomorrow. I'm sure there won't be any mud there....

Perhaps I should look into this for my LR3. Not so important with the D1 since alignment isn't so easily de-funked on a solid axle truck but I mess with the suspension on the LR3 semi-regularly it seems.

Exactly what I was thinking! I'm assuming you did, but if not schedule that ASAP.

I think I actually cut the studs on my passenger side mount a little shorter to make getting it in easier! I figure as long as I get a nuts-worth of thread anything more is just extra anyway.

Have Drill (and tap). Will Travel. BTW, I have some stuff for you at my place. We need to hook up and get that up your way.

As an added bonus, that gusset will act as a slide to help prevent the tab from 'hooking' should you somehow manage to get a rock up there.

Wish you could have gotten those more 'in-line' with the direction of pull. I'm a bit worried that under heavy load they'll want to twist/tear out. No doubt the part itself is more than strong enough, and the weld may also take the load fine, but the lever-arm could buckle the frame. At that location I don't think you had much other options short of building up some significant structure, and most likely it'll be fine, but I'd keep an eye on the frame if you put a heavy load on those points.

Sun visors! Such luxury...I can only dream!

I'm going to say 'not modify the shackle'.

So the new hardware has thicker heads and now the flange on the shackle pin is hitting the bolt heads? Shouldn't be a problem to knock a bit off the flange as you mentioned. It's not really under much side-loading; heck you're not even supposed to screw it tight when using it.

Come on - Chuck uses his! In the spirit of the thread, I washed the D1 this weekend (only the 2nd time!) and touched up all the scrapes on the tubework from Tank Traps.

15w50? That's extremely heavy for a normal V8 gas motor. I believe the original spec is 10w40 (?). I know a lot of people run 15w40; often Rotella which is an HD diesel oil. What made you change to the 15w50?

Changed oil & filter, transfer case and both diffs. While I was under I decided to replace the motor mounts with fresh ones from RoverWare. Why, WHY, do they use 18mm nuts on those things?? Man what a PITA to get to that top driver's side nut! If it had been 17 or 19 I have assorted ratcheting and flex-head wrenches to get at those hard-to-reach nuts but 18? That's a a bastard size and I only have a few things I could even get in there.

Well for starters it appears to be jumping right out of the truck.

We can do that. It's just a matter of finding the time. The next two weekends are booked and the following is the BoD on Saturday, but I should be available on Sunday.

Spent today futzing around with the D1. Installed a Rugged Radios intercom kit that's tied into the radio so I can hopefully communicate while at highway speeds. Seems to work, but I've only tried it in the garage at this point, not actually truck-to-truck or even driver-passenger. Re-wired the fridge and radio to try to avoid some annoying issues. They each had a direct power line to a fuse block about 8" from the battery, but about half the time when I would key the radio the fridge would start beeping at me. No error light, just beeping until I cycled power to it. I now have the radio going directly to the battery so they no longer go to the same fuse block. I'm guessing the radio caused just enough spike to freak out the fridge's monitors so hopefully this will get me around that. I also picked up a spare 1/4 wave antenna and secured it in the back of the truck for 'just in case'. At $20, why not? And I installed a ScanGuage OBD2 monitor so I can read temps and codes in real-time. I may have to move this though as I just bump it when shifting into low range. I even cleaned the truck up some- vacuumed out the interior and pressure washed the exterior. Plus hosed down the rear interior a bit.

Greg, is this coming to WRL?

Getting it ready for WRL I assume.