jlmoped Posted December 13, 2017 Report Share Posted December 13, 2017 I have 265/60R18 BFG AT KO2, the full size spare is the same tire. Should I rotate the tires every 5000 mileages or so? And should I rotate the full size spare as well? If yes, do I need to keep the spare rolling in one direction only? For example, only rotate it to the driver front or driver rear? BFG AT is not a directional tire, but I have heard a long time ago, once a radial tire is used to rotate in one direction, it is not good to make it rotate in the opposite direction. Is that true? If do a 5 tires rotation, is there a recommended sequence? Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DHappel Posted December 13, 2017 Report Share Posted December 13, 2017 I like to do a 5-tire rotation on my LR3. With modern non-directional tires you don't need to worry about the side of the vehicle; it can be run in any position. If you google it you'll find lots of variations. It's not critical which version you use so long as you pick one and stay with it so you keep all the tires moving to all locations evenly. Print out a pic and just stick it in the glove box or tack it up in the garage to refer to ... 5 tire is much harder for me to remember than 4 for whatever reason. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GraemeWare Posted December 14, 2017 Report Share Posted December 14, 2017 I have 265/60R18 BFG AT KO2, the full size spare is the same tire. Should I rotate the tires every 5000 mileages or so? And should I rotate the full size spare as well? If yes, do I need to keep the spare rolling in one direction only? For example, only rotate it to the driver front or driver rear? BFG AT is not a directional tire, but I have heard a long time ago, once a radial tire is used to rotate in one direction, it is not good to make it rotate in the opposite direction. Is that true? If do a 5 tires rotation, is there a recommended sequence? Thanks. Most tire manufacturer's websites give you a four and five tire rotation sequence that must be followed for warranty reasons. Personally I don't rotate tires, as the wear pattern tells you exactly what is going on with regard to alignment. By rotating you never see a bearing or bush that is causing wear in one location. Regards, Graeme Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DHappel Posted December 14, 2017 Report Share Posted December 14, 2017 For kicks I looked at the BFG site - they only show 4-wheel and 6 wheel (dualy) patterns. I suppose so few vehicles these days come with a full size spare (if they come with any spare at all) that most people don't need to think about it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GraemeWare Posted December 14, 2017 Report Share Posted December 14, 2017 For kicks I looked at the BFG site - they only show 4-wheel and 6 wheel (dualy) patterns. I suppose so few vehicles these days come with a full size spare (if they come with any spare at all) that most people don't need to think about it. And interestingly, they no longer do a left-right rotation, they just have front to rear keeping tires on the same side. Regards, Graeme Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GraemeWare Posted December 14, 2017 Report Share Posted December 14, 2017 And interestingly, they no longer do a left-right rotation, they just have front to rear keeping tires on the same side. Did BFG and Michelin become one? The website animations look spookily identical ..... Graeme Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlmoped Posted December 14, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 14, 2017 Yep, that's is why I asked the question. Rotating front to back is simple. I am uncertain about cross rotation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GraemeWare Posted December 14, 2017 Report Share Posted December 14, 2017 Did BFG and Michelin become one? The website animations look spookily identical ..... Graeme https://www.tirebuyer.com/education/tire-rotation-patterns And here is the old-fashioned way that I was taught .... Graeme Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GraemeWare Posted December 14, 2017 Report Share Posted December 14, 2017 https://www.tirebuyer.com/education/tire-rotation-patterns And here is the old-fashioned way that I was taught .... Graeme The diagram on the right of this one: https://www.tirebuyer.com/medias/sys_master/8830317101086.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlmoped Posted January 12, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 12, 2018 Tonight I finally got around to rotate the tires, but without success. I was a tough time un-mounting the passenger rear wheel, but with some elbow grease I was able to get it off. But the passenger front wheel would not move at all. And yes, I did remove the wheel lugs I have the Compomotive, it must have a very tight fit. So how do I get them off? Once they are off, should I spray WD-40 on the inside of the wheel hub or shave the paint off the wheel hub to make some room? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Elherbinator Posted January 12, 2018 Report Share Posted January 12, 2018 Sledge to sidewall should do the trick. I've never had to do it, but I figure some grease rub around should help keep it from seizing up. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GraemeWare Posted January 12, 2018 Report Share Posted January 12, 2018 You could use the old way of doing it. Loosen each lug one turn and drive a short way. Once off, use Wurth aluminum anti-seize on the mating surfaces to stop them binding again. RRCs are known for doing this, and I expect it is the same issue.Graeme Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lithium1330 Posted January 12, 2018 Report Share Posted January 12, 2018 i use the same rotation as illustrated in Don's post. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DHappel Posted January 12, 2018 Report Share Posted January 12, 2018 I haven't had one truly stuck on the hub, but I have had them stick somewhat. Generally nothing a kick to the tire wouldn't free up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlmoped Posted January 12, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 12, 2018 I wiggled it as hard as I could to get the passenger rear wheel off, but the passenger front would not move at all. I hit the inner side wallwith a rubber mallet and turned the wheel back and forth, it wouldn't budge at all. I will try the loosen the wheel lugs and drive cross country method. If that doesn't work, can someone winch my wheel off? I ordered a tube of anti-seize compound from Amazon. The wheel that I could remove, it was a very tight fit. Even with the anti-seize compound, I think I will still have a tough time getting it off next time. Will it be a good idea to shave off a bit a material from the wheel inner hub? If yes, how? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Elherbinator Posted January 12, 2018 Report Share Posted January 12, 2018 I wiggled it as hard as I could to get the passenger rear wheel off, but the passenger front would not move at all. I hit the inner side wallwith a rubber mallet and turned the wheel back and forth, it wouldn't budge at all. I will try the loosen the wheel lugs and drive cross country method. If that doesn't work, can someone winch my wheel off? I ordered a tube of anti-seize compound from Amazon. The wheel that I could remove, it was a very tight fit. Even with the anti-seize compound, I think I will still have a tough time getting it off next time. Will it be a good idea to shave off a bit a material from the wheel inner hub? If yes, how?I wouldn't try winching it off. If it is really seized you could just end up yanking your vehicle off the stand and make a mess. Just try banging from the outside of the tire. You'll be able to take a bigger swing at it. I also would avoid re-machining anything. I'd give the anti seize stuff a try first. When was the last time the wheel was removed? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DHappel Posted January 12, 2018 Report Share Posted January 12, 2018 While I assume the winching comment was in jest just in case I'm wrong Elhrbinator is right - don't actually do that. Also, Rover wheels are hub-centric; they are supposed to be a snug fit on the hub so not a good idea to grind that open. Now it's not supposed to be a press fit such that you need special tools to remove it so I'm not sure what's going on with yours; they're normally not that hard to get off! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdvRovr Posted January 12, 2018 Report Share Posted January 12, 2018 It could actually be a manufacturing defect by Compomotive - perhaps the grinding was a bit uneven or some excess powdercoat in the hub. The winching comment brings up a good general wrenching tip though: Steady force requires more force to unstick something than sharp blows. Some sharp hits will be much more effective than increasingly applying steady force, and is less likely to damage stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Elherbinator Posted January 12, 2018 Report Share Posted January 12, 2018 It could actually be a manufacturing defect by Compomotive - perhaps the grinding was a bit uneven or some excess powdercoat in the hub. The winching comment brings up a good general wrenching tip though: Steady force requires more force to unstick something than sharp blows. Some sharp hits will be much more effective than increasingly applying steady force, and is less likely to damage stuff.I broken many a car part via the sharp blows Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GraemeWare Posted January 13, 2018 Report Share Posted January 13, 2018 Also, Rover wheels are hub-centricCan you add "late model" to that please? Regards, Graeme Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DHappel Posted January 13, 2018 Report Share Posted January 13, 2018 Can you add "late model" to that please? Regards, GraemeAh, yes. Talking about an LR4 and I didn't think about the earlier trucks. Correct sir. I suspect Chad is right about excess powdercoating on the wheel. If you wanted to be particular, you could mic the inside of said wheel and see what it actually measures out at. Perhaps a little work with some sandpaper would give a touch of clearance, Clarence. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlmoped Posted January 14, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 14, 2018 I gave it another try today, and success! After drinking some WD-40 and some persuasion, the wheels finally decided to come off. I did noticed the tire store torque the wheel lugs on super tight, way higher than 98 lb ft. All the wheel hubs have dirt/stuff built-up in them, so I think that's why they stuck to the brake rotors. I used sand paper to lighter sand them off and the wheels mounted back on the truck without issue. I opted not to put any anti-seize compound on them in case that will cause the dirt built-up later. My small floor jack couldn't raise the truck high enough to lift the wheel off the ground, so I used the Land Rover scissor jack. But I guess it wasn't designed for frequent use. While raising the truck I heard some metal cracking sound. I thought it was the frame or jack flexing, but while raising the truck to change another wheel, the bearing in the jack cracked and popped out. Has that happened to anyone before? Is the OEM scissor jack serviceable or I have to replace the entire jack? (2 photos below) I have noticed clunking noise from the drive rear area for some time, while removing the wheels and installing the lift rods, I noticed the compressor air line was touching the brake line, so I bent the brake line slight upward, will check if the noise goes away when I take it on a test drive later (before and after photos). Thank you to everyone who gave me inputs to rotate my tires. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DHappel Posted January 14, 2018 Report Share Posted January 14, 2018 Those jacks are pretty crappy. I remember braking the one from my LR3 the first time I used it in my driveway when my truck was stock. It's important to have a jack with you that can get a wheel off the ground in case you get a flat but man are those things poor. I'd much rather have a small cheap bottle jack. The key to lifting a wheel off the ground is to lift the suspension instead of the body or frame. That can be difficult on the LR4 because the suspension arms don't have a lot of flat spots to place a jack. I've done it, but you have to be careful so the jack doesn't slip. As for home-use jacks, if you have the space to store it I can actually recommend one of the inexpensive Harbor Freight jacks. They're cheap but pretty decent quality. I've had one of these for several years:https://www.harborfreight.com/3-ton-steel-heavy-duty-floor-jack-with-rapid-pump-62584.html It's heavy though so unless you can leave it in the garage you won't want to lug it around. I also have one of the 1.5 ton aluminum jacks which was good for cars but a bit too light-duty for my Rover. I actually killed one trying to lift two wheels off the ground at the same time. For a bottle jack, the key is finding one that's short enough to get under the control arm. They have a pretty tall minimum height and a fairly limited lifting range but they are cheap and powerful. For $20 you should be able to buy one just about anywhere that would do the job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlmoped Posted January 15, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 15, 2018 I checked eBay for the OEM scissor Jack, $90+! Where is a good/safe place under the suspension to lift the truck with a bottle jack? Is the control arm steel or aluminum? How about this bottle jack and stand combo with 18-3/8" lift: https://www.amazon.com/Powerbuilt-640912-3-Ton-Bottle-Stand/dp/B003ULZGFU/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1516035617&sr=8-5&keywords=bottle%2Bjack&th=1 I have put the floor jack, OEM scissor jack and jack stands under the Tactical Rover rock slider, is that a safe place to lift the truck? If I get a Hi-Lift jack, can I lift the truck using the nerf bars? Is that safe to use on a regular/non-emergency basis? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DiscoDavis Posted January 15, 2018 Report Share Posted January 15, 2018 The OEM old red land rover bottle jacks are my favorite. Second to perhaps the 6 ton craftsman bottle jacks. Those are cheap at sears, but not covered under typical craftsman warranty. YMMV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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