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I'll be there with my sister-in-law and I'm thinking of bringing cinnamon rolls. Any takers? If not, I won't so they aren't in my truck all day. Dusty cinnamon rolls sound nasty.

 

 

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Cinnamon Rolls are welcome in our ARB fridge any time...  

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I'll be there with my sister-in-law and I'm thinking of bringing cinnamon rolls. Any takers? If not, I won't so they aren't in my truck all day. Dusty cinnamon rolls sound nasty.

 

 

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uh, yes....did you really have to ask?  I think we can assure you won't have to worry about dusty cinnamon rolls.  :)

 

I'm still a tentative. Have some other obligations that afternoon. If I am good to go, there's a Starbucks in Lathrop that's right off the freeway where we could sync up. (Lathrop Road exit from I-5)

Yup....that's the one

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I'm not going to make this one, have fun guys.

If you insist.  I was planning to go but be a miserable grumpy stick in the mud.  Now I guess I'll have to have fun instead.  :P

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An eventful Morg.

 

Good turn-out.  I think we had 10 trucks. 

My LR3

David LR4

Erin LR4

John LR4

Graeme and Lucas D2

Justin P38

Justin the second, Jeep JK

Jared RRC

Alyson & sister-in-law D2

Rob & Tracy, P38

 

All was going quite well until we broke for lunch.  Lucas was at the wheel of Graeme's truck and was taking 'adventurous' lines to test out the flex on the new lift.  He was trying to bounce the driver's front up on a stump at the obstacle course and as I passed to head over to truck hill I noticed he had a lot of axle tramp and said to Michele 'bouncing breaks things'.  A couple minutes later I hear over the radio 'Lucas kind of broke Graeme's truck' so I head back over to see, expecting maybe a snapped axle shaft. 

 

But no. 

 

Seems the driver's side rear control arm was now bent to 90*, the driveshaft was twisted in two, and one spring had exited the rear when the whole axle tried to crawl out from under the truck.  Quite dramatic looking.

 

Luckily it wasn't too hard to sort him out.  We removed the stub of a driveshaft, the shock, and undid the bolts holding the L shaped control arm.  We blocked the truck in place and used my winch to pull the axle back to roughly where it should be and the high-lift to hold the body off the tire high enough to stuff the spring back in place.  A couple of ratchet straps for/aft held the axle more or less in place and Graeme as able to drive it out in FWD mode down to the main road and to the top of the hill where he got cell service and AAA came for him.  I didn't take any pics but there are a couple in the shoutbox.

 

After that we returned to the park and I made a fairly easy run up truck hill.  Jared decided to put Erin's LR4 to the hill as well and made it up with little drama, though RedRover was less happy about the climb.  I believe Rob may have made a pass as well, and a couple of us played in the ravine at the bottom of the hill where I put the rear bumper on my rig to a bit of a test.  Some paint will be in order...

 

Everybody headed out not long after though Justin the 2nd (Jeep) and Michele and I hung around to BS for a bit.  He then took off to run a few moderate trails before heading home and I made another pass up truck hill on my way out.  Then I got to have my fun.

 

Just as I was pulling into the ranger station area to air up I got a suspension error and the truck went to the bumpstops all the way around.  I pulled out the GAP tool and could clear the faults but they immediately came back.  I could see on the dash display that the ride height sensors were out of tolerance - that happens if you have rods on and sit on the bumps - the solution was again the high-lift.  I jacked the front of the truck up enough to get the sensors there back into tolerance then the compressor came back on and I could get the truck back to normal.  I thought.  I only got about 1/2 mile down the road before it threw the same code again and I had to do the whole thing over.  The next time I got maybe a mile.  Rinse and repeat...all the way into Hollister.   I figured out the right front ride height sensor had an intermittent fault.  I could reset it but it would only stay in tolerance for a little bit before throwing a code.  It did behave for about 20 minutes leaving Hollister and I got almost out to 33 on one shot.  Somewhere along the lines I realized if I just left the GAP tool plugged in and as soon as the red tippy-rover suspension fault came on I immediately stopped I could clear the fault before the truck settled onto the stops so I didn't have to do the jack-it-up routine.  But it was a very long drive...I could only get 1-4 miles at a time before having to dive to the shoulder and reset the code.

 

Eventually we made it home.  Along the way I ran the compressor almost non-stop since it was constantly trying to re-air the suspension after the code would dump the pressure.  Now the compressor is running but seems to be very slow to build pressure.  And I seem to have developed a worrying whine/whirring noise that's engine speed related, most noticeable just off idle.  Plus a small exhaust leak perhaps at a manifold.....Man, I have my work cut out for me before the Slick Rock trip!

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Actually, with the bigger tires it would have been a flat-bed ride.  I can drive on the bumpstops but only just.  Every little bump (and when on the stops Everything is a bump!) makes it rub.  It could be done but it would be miserable. 

 

OK.  It wasn't exactly fun as it was, but we got there.

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An eventful Morg.

 

Eventually we made it home.  Along the way I ran the compressor almost non-stop since it was constantly trying to re-air the suspension after the code would dump the pressure.  Now the compressor is running but seems to be very slow to build pressure.  And I seem to have developed a worrying whine/whirring noise that's engine speed related, most noticeable just off idle.  Plus a small exhaust leak perhaps at a manifold.....Man, I have my work cut out for me before the Slick Rock trip!

 

Don

 

Rough trip home! Larger tyres and it would have 2 out of 10 went home an a low loader...........

 

I have a spare compressor and gently used height sensors for your platform, but I would recommend buying new sensors. Check the plastic cap on the air compressor dryer; there is a blue and orange compression fitting and they crack between the two, sometimes so small its hard to see. The compressor endlesly running and slow build up are signs of that particular failure.

 

You can buy another plastic one but I buy the aluminium ones sold in the UK and it is fixed for good. Get a desicant re-fill kit while you are at it.

 

Happy to help if you would like.

 

Rob

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I was planning to buy a front sensor and maybe a front and rear to have as spares, thinking their were different part numbers for front and rear.

 

But actually they're different at each corner.  So unless you carry 4 spares (at $100+ ea) you're really just guessing.

 

I'll pick up a new sensor this week.  That should take care of that problem.

 

On the compressor it sounds like a dryer issue.  I've noticed it seemed to run a longer time than expected recently, though I don't seem to have any significant leaks that cause the truck to drop overnight.  If I leave it a week sure, but I'd expect that.  The only thing that makes me question this is that I replaced the whole compressor last year and I'm pretty sure the dryer was integral to that.  I wouldn't expect it to be bad at this point but anything is possible.  I see lots of dryer desiccant refills for under $50 so I may go ahead and pick on up to have on hand next weekend when I can work on it.

 

I also need to study up on the GAP tool.  I think there is a way to lock the valves out on the struts so it can't dump air.  I played around in the menus a bit yesterday but didn't find anything like that.  Of course, it's not super intuitive.  I spent a great deal of time cursing the engineers who decided that if anything throws a code the best solution is to just dump all 4 corners....if they would have instead just set it up to simply stop and hold-position that would have been fine and I could have just driven home like normal.  Instead it was a constant dump and refill, dump and refill.  And with my compressor running slowly much of the time it never actually got back up to the point where the compressor shut off before having it dump again. 

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I also need to study up on the GAP tool.  I think there is a way to lock the valves out on the struts so it can't dump air.  I played around in the menus a bit yesterday but didn't find anything like that.  Of course, it's not super intuitive.  I spent a great deal of time cursing the engineers who decided that if anything throws a code the best solution is to just dump all 4 corners....if they would have instead just set it up to simply stop and hold-position that would have been fine and I could have just driven home like normal.  Instead it was a constant dump and refill, dump and refill.  And with my compressor running slowly much of the time it never actually got back up to the point where the compressor shut off before having it dump again. 

 

Don,

 

Can't you find the "dump" solenoid(s) and fit a switch in-line?

 

Graeme

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Actually, I already have the parts to make that happen.  It's a Green Oval kit that provides an emergency override - you basically just turn a valve to shut off the on-board air supply then hook a compressor to a Schrader valve and inflate as needed.  I just never got around to installing it!  It was actually one of the first things I bought for the truck.

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Actually, I already have the parts to make that happen.  It's a Green Oval kit that provides an emergency override - you basically just turn a valve to shut off the on-board air supply then hook a compressor to a Schrader valve and inflate as needed.  I just never got around to installing it!  It was actually one of the first things I bought for the truck.

 

Don,

 

I bet you back up your computer's hard drive the day after it crashes too ....

 

Did I mention that we sell some really strong trailing arms for D1 and RRC, which are twin wall and 46mm diameter .... yes, not on our own D1 yesterday though.

 

Graeme

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hmmmm....I haven't gotten around to dropping the slider (it's actually raining out and there's no room in the garage for the truck) to check on my compressor but I can find lots of inexpensive parts for the old Hitatchi compressor - I could re-ring the piston, replace the dryer desiccant, and even upgrade the dryer end-cap as Rob suggested for under $200.   Basically replace all the moving parts short of the actual motor.  Of course, not much to find for the 'upgraded' new AMK compressor.  I'm tempted to go ahead and order the parts since I still have my old Hitatchi unit sitting here.  I can't recall what all I changed when I switched to the AMK model but I'm pretty sure I could re-mount the old one.  Heck, it fits better anyway since the AMK hangs down a bit and tends to vibrate against my slider.  And our Slick Rock trip is coming up fast, so I only have next weekend to work on things.

 

Screw it.  It's only money, right?

 

(edit)
ordered a full kit for my old Hitatchi pump off Amazon from LRNJ for $130.  Should be here about the end of the week.  Have a new front right sensor coming from Atlantic British for $110 ($10 Easter discount) as well.  I did find 'oem vendor' sensors for less but figured I'd just bite the bullet and be done.

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I was planning to buy a front sensor and maybe a front and rear to have as spares, thinking their were different part numbers for front and rear.

 

But actually they're different at each corner.  So unless you carry 4 spares (at $100+ ea) you're really just guessing.

 

I'll pick up a new sensor this week.  That should take care of that problem.

 

On the compressor it sounds like a dryer issue.  I've noticed it seemed to run a longer time than expected recently, though I don't seem to have any significant leaks that cause the truck to drop overnight.  If I leave it a week sure, but I'd expect that.  The only thing that makes me question this is that I replaced the whole compressor last year and I'm pretty sure the dryer was integral to that.  I wouldn't expect it to be bad at this point but anything is possible.  I see lots of dryer desiccant refills for under $50 so I may go ahead and pick on up to have on hand next weekend when I can work on it.

 

I also need to study up on the GAP tool.  I think there is a way to lock the valves out on the struts so it can't dump air.  I played around in the menus a bit yesterday but didn't find anything like that.  Of course, it's not super intuitive.  I spent a great deal of time cursing the engineers who decided that if anything throws a code the best solution is to just dump all 4 corners....if they would have instead just set it up to simply stop and hold-position that would have been fine and I could have just driven home like normal.  Instead it was a constant dump and refill, dump and refill.  And with my compressor running slowly much of the time it never actually got back up to the point where the compressor shut off before having it dump again. 

 

I have seen the dessicant cap fail in short order.  Most desicant kits dont have the cap, that I have seen anyway. 

 

I did recently see a dryer that showed no sign of cracking yet from the inside the desicant highlighted the hairline crack - Photo attached

 

If you need to diagnose in-depth, talk to Ted as he has the dignostic tool and does not live that far away.

 

My tuppence anyway.............. 

post-635-0-35719600-1428285516_thumb.jpg

post-635-0-41902100-1428285553_thumb.jpg

post-635-0-93223100-1428285668_thumb.jpg

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Thanks Jared for a great trip. Had a good time with all the guys and gals! The girls are pretty good leaders, took some interesting trails. FUN.

 

Justin

 

Yes, great day and nice gear change Jared from a HAM to a recovery class. I think this one was almost 50/50 Ladies and Gents. Made for a nice dynamic (kept the testosterone fueled mayhem to a minimum).

 

Nice to meet new members, hope to see you on the trails.

 

We wound up Bubbles to 75mph and arrived home at 7pm. Checking the petrol consumption this morning we used 35 gallons for the 350 mile run including the mileage at Hollister for 9.8MPG. About the same as the H3 I was mocking yesterday.

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Thanks Jared for a great trip. Had a good time with all the guys and gals! The girls are pretty good leaders, took some interesting trails. FUN.

 

Justin

Thank you Justin! It's nice to hear that!

 

 

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Rob, here's the parts I ordered.  This is for my old Hitachi compressor instead of my current AMK, but at least I'll have the parts on-hand for next weekend and I will likely install these to my old unit then put it back on the truck.  Before I do that I'll see if I can find any signs of leaks around the dryer cap/ports on the currently installed AMK.  In your 3rd pic, I'm guessing the crack is the line between the two fittings, showing up sort of like magnafluxing?

 

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TFWBLJI/ref=pe_385040_127745480_TE_item

 

I also found out how I could have gotten around the whole issue - here's a note from the GAP guys:

 

The 'Service/Test' menu is really meant to provide for just that: testing all components of the EAS by allowing manual control to see if they actually function. By utilizing these functions you can go from completely depressurized airbags to the limits of suspension travel on one corner or all 4 as you please. Even if the EAS ECU is stuck in 'Hard fault' (non-operational). As long as you do not exit the 'Service/Test' menu (and reactivate the EAS ECU), you do not relinquish manual control over the EAS components. This is particularly useful when you have a situation such as a damaged height sensor on the trail (which was actually reported to us not too long ago). Plug the IIDTool in, manually pump up the suspension, and drive out. Short of a damaged air spring or a damaged air line, the IIDTool will allow you to drive out of nearly any situation.

 

Although I am familiar with the service/test menu, I didn't realize it would maintain control of the system once I started driving.  Once you move the 'exiting IId tool' screen pops up and you can't access it unless you are at a full stop.  So I should have just gone in and manually set the pressures to something sufficient to drive on then left the tool plugged in on that menu and just started driving.  Simple, but not obvious without being told.  I was looking for something to 'lock' the individual bag valves.  This accomplishes that, it just isn't worded that way.

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Sorry to hear about your suspension woes Don, but it sounds like you have a good fix in place.

 

As another option, I just installed the OME coil conversion on my '06 LR3, so no more air for me. With the EAS software box provided with the kit, it allows the use of hill descent, traction control, stability control, and all the other fun stuff and no error codes. You do lose the ability to adjust ride height and self-leveling for towing. The OME option gave it a solid 2" of lift.

 

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I've kinda/sorta thought about doing coils, but I wondered about how much lift there would actually be once the truck was loaded.  If it gives 2" on a stocker, that's probably an inch at best on my rig, and that's not going to cut it.

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Well now!  That tells a very different story.  I did not realize this was a two-step destruction.  Things were already shabby and then went to worse after a bit of antsy acceleration methinks.  ;)

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