[2010-2013 Range Rover Sport steel front bumper mods]

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One note - generally you can rotate the ends of a winch to accommodate bottom/fwd mounting and keep the clutch lever on top.  I've had to do that for ARB bumpers before.  I can't speak about the Apex specifically but it's pretty common.

 I had it apart and unfortunately the way they designed the outer housing the APEX can’t be clocked.

 

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As an aside, do you think you could have trimmed the limb riser brackets and gotten the bumper to sit closer?

  If all the tabs were removed from the top of the bull bar it wouldn't interfere with the hood at all but it would be snug for the headlights and grille. So snug in fact that you wouldn’t have room to remove the grille but yes, it would fit. On the L320 if you can’t remove the grille, you can’t move the headlights enough for access to the bulb sockets. I didn’t want to unbolt and unplug everything later just to change headlight bulbs. Before the modification it tucked underneath the headlights by about 1 ½” and only protruded out about 8” overall. 

[May MORG!!!]

Looks like I'll be missing out on this one as well. We have an Alaskan trip planned right after that weekend. 

[First Annual Overland Event (April 10th - 16th)]

🙃Alright, I have questions.... 

[2010-2013 Range Rover Sport steel front bumper mods]

 After countless hours of research, I was unable to find anyone that makes a bolt on ready steel winch bumper for the RRS. One that not only looks good, but also allows me to retain my full tech package with the camera system, oversized washer tank, and the EAS front air valve block without relocation. 
 I took some measurements from a D4 and was fairly certain that the crush cans on the D4 would be a direct bolt on for the RRS so I started looking around at what was available in the D4 realm. I came across Tough Gear Trading based out of Australia. They offered an Opposite Lock brand bull bar bumper for a D4 with tech. It’s similar in appearance to an ARB bumper but also allows me to keep the surround camera system.
 I contacted one of the owners of TGT to see if they would be willing to export one of the bumpers directly instead of using one of their dealers since they didn’t have dealers located here in the States. They didn’t have a problem doing a direct sale to the States and even offered to arrange sea freight or air freight shipping options. Opposite Lock OL125D4X-B Matte Powder Coat 10/2009 – 12/2013 with sensors & cameras for Land Rover Discovery 4 is what I ordered.
 A few US Customs forms and about a month later it arrived. Using the exchange rate at the time it was $1191 for the bumper, $516 for sea freight, $100 in customs paperwork, and about $200 for Oakland port charges. Just an FYI, the sea freight total with the hidden paperwork fees and Oakland port charges would have been close to the same as air freight without all the hassles or slow boat wait. 

 

The D4 crush cans mounted perfectly to the Sport but when all was said and done, the brackets at the end of the cans turned out to be 2.5” too short to clearance the bumpers bull bar far enough away from the hood and grill.

 

 

Instead of rebuilding or welding extensions to the ends of both crush cans I had some bolt on S shaped brackets made to extend the bumper forward 2.5”.  The antenna mounts and limb riser tabs on the top of the bull bar now properly clearance the hood. The grill and headlights can now be removed without hitting the wing guards on the bull bar so the entire bumper doesn’t need to be removed for headlight access or for body off repair work. 

 

 With the bumper now 2.5” forward it was short on both sides at the wheel wells. To remedy this, I cut out both side sections of the old plastic bumper to use as filler. If you follow the vertical body line on the front fender at the back edge of the headlight opening and use that as your vertical reference point, mark a straight line down the side of the old bumper. This piece should measure about 12” from the cut line to the point end at the wheel well. Retain this 12” piece of plastic bumper on each side and it will fully cover the area in question when trimmed to size after you have the bumper installed. 

 Now that the gaps in the sides of the fender areas have been addressed, there was a 2” gap across the front of the bumper under the grill and headlights. The OL bumper did come with two curved bolt-on rubber spacers that fit in the gaps underneath each headlight but had it nothing for the gap underneath the grill. To me this 2” gap is an aesthetic problem that I couldn’t just leave as is. 
 Instead of changing out my grill and headlights to the D4 setup to fill in the extra space I had a bolt-on filler section made out of steel. It’s radiused to match the curve in the Sports grill and headlights. It bolts directly into the existing holes that the rubber spacers used under the headlights. FYI - Spray on bed liner came very close to the bull bars matte black powder coat color and texture so there is no need to send anything off for powder coating.

 For the winch, I decided to go with an APEX 12,000lb winch with synthetic rope and Bluetooth control over the Warn Zeon 12-S Platinum. I didn’t need the Bluetooth controller to control extra accessories like on the Zeon since all my overhead lights are already controlled by remote. I wasn’t really thrilled with the idea of the clutch engagement/disengagement on the Zeon being controlled via Bluetooth. There are just too many scenarios where I could see that ending badly. The Apex is IP69K rated to withstand pressure washer streams up to 1450 PSI and was about a ¼ of the Zeon price. Let me stop you before you even say “but the build quality”. The build quality on the Apex “looked” great out of the box and came with everything included except for two grade 12.9 bolts long enough to go through the fairlead/bumper plate and into the winch mount since it was being mounted vertical. As far as durability/longevity on the Apex, we will see how it holds up over time.

 Since this bumper uses a vertical “foot forward” mounting system similar to ARB. Not only does this save on room, it reduces the twisting force on the mounting plate and winch. There’s plenty of room between the winch mounting plate and the radiator to install the winch from underneath after the bumper has already been installed so there’s no need to lift the entire bumper and winch together. There’s even enough room to leave the control box mounted to the top of the winch pointing towards the radiator instead of relocating it to the top of the bumper. Why the heck not since it’s completely waterproof! The unit is completely sealed and there’s no weep or drain holes to worry about with it mounted in a vertical configuration. 
 With the Apex mounted in this foot forward position, the clutch lever now sits to the back of the winch. The Apex isn’t clockable because of the housing design so I modified the existing clutch lever with a Heim joint and steel rod as an extension. The clutch can now be engaged or disengage easily through the bumper access and everything stays completely hidden inside the bumper out of sight.

Pic with the grill off.

Measurement between the control box and radiator.

The modified clutch engagement lever over to a loop handle. Pull up, pull over, and push down to lock.

 

Added an aluminum bracket up top to mount a manual battery disconnect switch for safety and also keeps the Bluetooth fully turned off until needed.

 

 

[Pros Cons RRS?]

I’ve attached Atlantic British service schedule for RRS 2010-13. Many issues were resolved starting in 2010.

 

You can get this schedule for other years just by setting up a free account at AB.

 

Change oil at 7500 miles. The spec oil is only available in 55 gal drums, but if out of warranty and changing more than at 15k other oil may be OK. If out of warranty an indie shop is really helpful. I use Besa in Oakland on Webster. You can get a quote for any of the attached services.

RRS eat brake pads, do not trust brake pad sensors; none of mine have given sufficient warning; check brake pads frequently. I switched from the OEM Ferrodo dust monsters to Porterfield racing pads made in Southern CA, way less dust and last way over 20k OEM, more expensive, but less hassle. Check rotor thickness to spec frequently. Dealer changers rotors every brake pad change, indies do not if thickness is in spec.

Buy a Bluetooth OBDll code reader and check monthly. I use this one:

https://www.amazon.com/Veepeak-OBDCheck-Bluetooth-Diagnostic-Compatible-x/dp/B073XKQQQW

Google any codes and decide to reset or report to mechanic. The Gap tool is best, but may be too much for a non DYI.

Look up cost to own; don’t be surprised when a head light is over $300. for parts and labor for example.

And a low power battery sends electric gremlins/ codes that are confusing. Check voltage and replace with the best you can afford.

 

I forgot to add the battery issues! Looks like Mavrik had that covered. Battery problems will throw all kinds of just plain wrong codes on a RRS. When you get several codes thrown all at once, 1st thing to look at is the Battery then check it a second time BEFORE moving on to something else.

[Pros Cons RRS?]

I got some more details as this will be "a daily driver" use.

 

So, I think the question I am intended to help with centers more around maintaining and road driving issues.

 

I have been looking for recall, known engine issues, transmission replacements etc. Things the mechanic might do.

 

Once they get it, then the other questions will start.

 

2010-2013 RRS with the Jag 5.0L V8

 

Water Pump, Water Pump, Water Pump. It’s just like saying Beetlejuice. Look for light weeping around the pump or for the pump pulley not spinning true with the engine is running. If the pump was changed, make damn sure a new crossover pipe was used at the same time.

 

Clutchfan – listen for slow ticking/clock/clunk noise from the fan when the engine is 1st started cold without revving the engine.

 

High Pressure Fuel Pumps – listen for light ticking tapping sounds coming from the front lower passenger side of the engine.

 

Timing Chain – Diesel sounding clack noises coming from the front/top of the engine. It’s not actually the chains, it’s the aluminum tensioners that will wear. If they were already changed out with the new design which reinforces the wear point on the arm, they will never have to be messed with again.

 

Surround camera system – If the front bumper cams only show a blue screen with an X, more than likely it will need a complete updated front wiring harness for the cameras. The old design allows water intrusion into the harness connectors which will shut off the cams. The new harness (some done under warranty) will have fixed this recurring issue.

 

Water Leaks – if the windshield was replaced the they did not replace all the retainers on the outer plastic A pillar covers (or reused them) and it leaks, you will find water staining on the A pillar fabric and just in front of the doors on the carpet at the floor. The water intrusion in this area over long periods of time can cause wiring harness corrosion issues.

 

2010-2013 RRS SC V8 – same issues as above but also add: 

 

SC bearings - Look for wobble/play or bearing noises coming from the SC nosecone area. You will know it when you hear it.

[What Did You Do With Your Rover Today?]

Kiddie pool drip pan? Really? That's a whole new level of Rover dripitude if you need to use that. 

Now on a serious note... Well done, the engine looks awesome! 

 

-Esten