Motobrewer Posted February 17, 2019 Report Share Posted February 17, 2019 has never been said by a Land Rover engineer. Tackled swapping out the front anti-roll bar bushings yesterday on my LR4. No idea to how to torque the top nut on the drivers side to spec. I could only get an offset box wrench on it and 1/16th of a turn at a time. I love spending a couple of hours dealing with one nut, and expanding my daughters vocabulary. Basically matched the number of showing threads above the nut to the lower nut which is properly torqued. Might pick up some S-bend and/or half moon box wrenches to see if I can get to the nut. I haven't found any tricks online to make this easier, and the page in the factory service manual is blank. Cured a-lot of the rattling that I was hearing when driving in a straight line - afraid that the top clamp nut isn't tight enough. I have the sway bar links, which I was going to do yesterday as well, but I was out of time. Still have a bit, so I am ordering the rear bushings and they look to be easier to get to, and will attempt the front sway bar links then. Last month, I dealt with R/R spark plugs. Who knew it took 6 hours to change plugs? At least I have 100K before I need to do that again... Also, I installed the Rhino lift rods since they were easy to get to. I think the seat height matches the seat height of R1150GS now. Going to try to lower it back to normal height with the scanner until my wheels arrive. R/R the transmission filter is high on the list, at least it looks easy to get to, but I think the upgrade kit requires some cutting of the old filter, which I believe will lead to another expanded vocabulary session for my daughter. She does appreciate it when I work on her truck, and getting to say "Daddy's broken." At least I am becoming a pro at putting her on jack stands. Might pick up another pair and a creeper, take a day or two off of work and finish all of the maintenance items I want to take care of. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GraemeWare Posted February 17, 2019 Report Share Posted February 17, 2019 R/R the transmission filter is high on the list, at least it looks easy to get to, but I think the upgrade kit requires some cutting of the old filter, which I believe will lead to another expanded vocabulary session for my daughter. The kit comes with good instructions, and new bolts (I assume you're going for the metal replacement?). If you haven't bought it yet http://www.roverware.us/transmission-oil-pan-metal-with-separate-filter-and-gasket-lr007474p-lr007474-lr007474pf-lr3-lr4-rrs-upgrade-kit/ Zoom in and you can read the instructions. Very easy. Regards, Graeme Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DHappel Posted February 18, 2019 Report Share Posted February 18, 2019 Haven't done the 4, but have done the filter on the 3. Not bad. Messy, but shouldn't require too much vocabulary. A few of the pan bolts are a bit hard to reach but not stupid. I used a pneumatic body saw to buzz through the plastic filter neck. A hack saw blade will get you there but go ahead and make sure you have a new sharp blade if you're going that route as working while trans fluid drips on you isn't the most fun you can have so any little thing that helps is a bonus. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
foster Posted February 18, 2019 Report Share Posted February 18, 2019 Also, I installed the Rhino lift rods since they were easy to get to. I think the seat height matches the seat height of R1150GS now. Going to try to lower it back to normal height with the scanner until my wheels arrive. I tried this recently on my LR3 with no luck. One corner wouldn't lower more than 11mm... so I took the rods off. Seemed like it should have been simple, but nope. Hope you have better luck with it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DHappel Posted February 18, 2019 Report Share Posted February 18, 2019 I tried this recently on my LR3 with no luck. One corner wouldn't lower more than 11mm... so I took the rods off. Seemed like it should have been simple, but nope. Hope you have better luck with it! You may be able to re-calibrate everything back to stock then put the rods on and try again. But every truck seems a little different as to how much lift (or lower I suppose) you can get from the GAP iiD tool based on the individual sensors. If you email GAP, they'll send you a simple excel spreadsheet you can use to do the calibration routine. Just follow the instructions, plug in your measurements, and it will tell you what numbers to use. Heck, I probably have a copy of that on my computer somewhere if I dig around. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr.BlueSky Posted February 19, 2019 Report Share Posted February 19, 2019 Haven't done the 4, but have done the filter on the 3. Not bad. Messy, but shouldn't require too much vocabulary. A few of the pan bolts are a bit hard to reach but not stupid. I used a pneumatic body saw to buzz through the plastic filter neck. A hack saw blade will get you there but go ahead and make sure you have a new sharp blade if you're going that route as working while trans fluid drips on you isn't the most fun you can have so any little thing that helps is a bonus. Scott just did this in my driveway not too long ago... I'll say it didn't seem too bad. He was at it for about 2 hours but I think he was taking frequent naps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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