KSuttle Posted March 7, 2013 Report Share Posted March 7, 2013 My extent of mechanical experience so far with my LR3's has been slider installation, brake pad and rotor replacement, rear door latch replacement, tearing up the console to replace the high/low range switch, various wiring for power and radios. Now I need to swap out suspension components - struts and coils front and rear (mine came from LR stock with coils remember). How difficult a job is this? Is this something I could do on my own (minus the alignment) with a floor jack and wrenches, or should I fork over the $900+ for a pro to do it? I'm not doing any additional lifting. I'm replacing 65mm coils with 50mm HD coils (440lb static), and replacing my 8 year old struts with after market struts. The after market struts were recommended by Lucky8 and are supposed to provide an additional 1-2" of articulation which my rig has sorely lacked. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomOwen Posted March 7, 2013 Report Share Posted March 7, 2013 Kevin, My answer to yor question is: I have no idea. However, if it deemed a DIY project, I'm happy to climb under the rig and lend a hand or at the very least useless and distracting commentary. Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
astateofmike Posted March 8, 2013 Report Share Posted March 8, 2013 Struts are kinda tough. Colin will chime in, but you basically have to remove the whole thing. IIRC, you need to compress the coils then unbolt the whole assembly then remove. BUT, since you have complete assemblies to go back in, it may be easier since you do not have to dismantle the old assembly at all. Upper mounts, lower mounts, lift away. Why shorter springs? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KSuttle Posted March 8, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 8, 2013 Why shorter springs? Long story, but my problem is butt sag when fully loaded on the trail. Lucky8 convinced me that their coils are better than what I've currently got and will keep my rear from sagging on trail, netting me an equivalent or better ride height. Seems counter intuitive, but several people swear by Lucky 8's advice, so I'm giving it a shot. Plus the 65's are $500 more. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
El Solis Posted March 8, 2013 Report Share Posted March 8, 2013 Long story, but my problem is butt sag when fully loaded on the trail. You and me both brother, but mine is a little more "organic" 😜 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
astateofmike Posted March 8, 2013 Report Share Posted March 8, 2013 You and me both brother, but mine is a little more "organic" 😜 Hahahahhahhhaaha Well Kevin, it is a $500 gamble that you like what it looks like when done. good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dean K. Posted March 8, 2013 Report Share Posted March 8, 2013 It can be a DIY job, but you will need to borrow or rent a strut spring compressor. Out here in Monterey, O'Rielly auto parts lets you borrow such things, so check around. Other than that it's pretty easy. I've done quite a few in my driveway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
astateofmike Posted March 8, 2013 Report Share Posted March 8, 2013 Thats what I am thinking. Unbolt top, compress spring, remove from car. remove, refit. This would do better with a helper to I would think, someone to dial 911 as needed....chase springs that flew away et. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dean K. Posted March 8, 2013 Report Share Posted March 8, 2013 Actually, it's remove tire, compress spring, remove bolts, remove strut. My experience has been that the upper bolts are pretty easy, but the lower bolt needs an air gun. I've done it by myself, but a helper to hold the strut in place while starting the upper bolts makes it a LOT easier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ColinB Posted March 8, 2013 Report Share Posted March 8, 2013 It depends on the car. Most you remove as a complete unit then compress the strut on a table. then swap the shock out and re install. Not to terrible, I have a spring compressor if you need it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HMBRover Posted March 9, 2013 Report Share Posted March 9, 2013 I've done struts and springs on three different vehicles including my old Freelander and it was pretty straight forward. In each case the spring and strut came off in a single unit and was disassembled on the bench. The most difficult (and scary) part was compressing the spring to get it off the strut. Compressing the spring stores up a large amount of energy. If it lets go it releases that energy and if you are standing in the wrong place it can kill you. That said, with lots of care and a good compressor it is relatively easy. The best case would be if you could take off the old strut/spring assembly and bolt on the new one. If the spring and strut come from Lucky8 in separate boxes, maybe you could have them put the spring on the strut and deliver it ready to install. It might cost a few more bucks but it could be worth it. Worth checking out anyway. In either case it would be good to have someone with experience riding shotgun. Also if you could get the shop manual information for that task it would help. Maybe you could find it online. Unfortunately the RAVE CD isn't available for the LR3 since Land Rover has it all online. It's available via subscription though it's $$. PS: You'll need jack stands plus, likely, a breaker bar and large socket for the hub nut. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
El Solis Posted March 9, 2013 Report Share Posted March 9, 2013 i have the air gun, stands, breaker bar, hub nut socket (at least for the defender) and might have a spring compressor as well (grandfather was a mechanic and I have his tools, haven't sorted through some of them yet). Let me know and I will look. You are welcome to do it at my place as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DiscoChef Posted March 9, 2013 Report Share Posted March 9, 2013 Kevin, I've done it twice, once on the D1 and then again on a RRC. It was pretty straight forward. Just have to compress the spring evenly,that means that you just have to tighten each nut a little at a time. I have to do the front brakes on the LR3 this Sunday and could give you a hand if you bring it over. either my place or Chris' although, I dont have a lot of room on the driveway right now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KSuttle Posted March 9, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 9, 2013 Thanks for the advice y'all. The struts have arrived, but not the coils - they were shipped from different places apparently. So I will have to assemble them and it won't be this weekend . Brian, I purchased a PDF version of he LR3 shop manual off eBay, so I've got that going for me I guess. I've got the floor jack and jack stands, but no air tools. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GraemeWare Posted March 9, 2013 Report Share Posted March 9, 2013 Kevin, I've done it twice, once on the D1 and then again on a RRC. ... Unless you have done some serious mods to your classic and D1 you don't have MacPherson struts on either vehicle ... The LR3 will have a strut, but the others have convention spring/damper set up. In many ways a strut is easier as you can do it all out of the vehicle. Graeme Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KSuttle Posted March 9, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 9, 2013 So the official shop manual says (for rear wheels): 1) Don't be stupid and work under a vehicle supported by only a jack (paraphrase) 2) Remove wheel and tire 3) Loosen the 3 spring and shock absorber retaining nuts (top of assembly) 4) Disconnect the shock absorber and spring assemble from lower arm Use jack and wood block to support base of shock Remove nut and bolt 5) Remove the shock absorber and spring assembly retaining nuts (top of assemble) 6) Remove shock absorber and spring assembly No mention of compressing anything Is this to say that it is safe to remove the assembly without it exploding? And then I could maybe take the parts to a local shop to have them compress the new spring onto the shock so I have a completed assembly to install? Maybe the shop would give me a deal if I promised to come back to them to get the alignment? The only major problem I see if the bolt on the lower control arm needs to be 221 lb. ft. and my torque wrench doesn't go that high. Fronts are the same but I have to remove the fender liner and heat shield. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GraemeWare Posted March 9, 2013 Report Share Posted March 9, 2013 So the official shop manual says .... Is this to say that it is safe to remove the assembly without it exploding? And then I could maybe take the parts to a local shop to have them compress the new spring onto the shock so I have a completed assembly to install? Yepp. And 221 is about 200 and another tug ... it really isn't that critical. Graeme Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Teds Posted March 13, 2013 Report Share Posted March 13, 2013 They dont mention tue sprjng compressor there b/c the strut is all one unit. In order to disassemble the strut, you will need to compress the spring. It really isnt as hard as it sounds and you can pick up spring compressors cheap ir borrow one. Just be sure it is secure and has some safety hook or something to keep it locked onto the spring. I have changed struts on numerous BMWs. The hardest part I found was loosening the nut on the top mount as the shock would want to rotate. That is the only place where air tools helped because it could spin really quickly to break it free. Of course you are only loosening it after the springs are secured so they dont come flying off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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