LR109 Posted July 10, 2011 Report Share Posted July 10, 2011 I couldn't get it to start after a year sitting around.....It was real discouraging. I must have put well over 500 hours into the project.... Then I determined there was no fuel in the tank....Went down and got a gallon of diesel fuel and guess what? It fired right up...See Pic.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KSuttle Posted February 6, 2012 Report Share Posted February 6, 2012 Haven't yet pulled the plug on dual batter gear, nor do I know exactly what is needed beyond a battery. Could someone in the know, take a look at this: http://www.powerwerx.com/emergency-vehicle/battery-separator-auxiliary-batteries-100-amps.html Its a 100 amp batter separator for marine use for $89. They also make a 200 amp version for $159. Is this all I need in addition to the cables to tie everything together and maybe a fuse block for stuff running off the 2nd battery? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Disco2Guy Posted February 6, 2012 Report Share Posted February 6, 2012 I'd take a look at what your alternator output is first. I'm pretty sure the D2 is 120 amps, so I'd imagine the LR3 is at least that. Billa Vista has a nice write-up, but man that switch... it's so BIG! There are more links at the bottomg of the page. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HMBRover Posted February 7, 2012 Report Share Posted February 7, 2012 If your aux battery is discharged more than your main battery then the aux battery will take the bulk of the charging current. If the LR3 alternator is capable of outputting more than 100 amps or so then the smaller unit may not be enough. When handling high current, a little margin is desirable. The description kind of indicates it doesn't allow you to operate the two batteries in parallel to support a large load like a winch. That might. Be a consideration if you are planning to install a winch. ( On second reading it might be possible to set it up so you could do so.) On the other hand, if you just want to run accessories like radios, fridge, etc. Then the 200 amp unit look like it would work well for you. What kind of controller does Enrique have? It seemed to be OK. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NigelCowan Posted February 7, 2012 Report Share Posted February 7, 2012 Kevin, You might want to look at this one... http://www.aulro.com/afvb/verandah/118973-usi-160-160-240-amp-ultra-smart-dual-battery-isolator.html I'm considering it myself. I might order one for each vehicle. Let me know if you are interested. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
El Solis Posted February 7, 2012 Report Share Posted February 7, 2012 I went with the national luna split charge with 2 optima yellow tips haven't reallyHad a chance to test out the capacity but with a winch and air compressor etc thought it would be best. It's pricey but comes with everything you need in the box except the batteries. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Desertcrawler Posted February 7, 2012 Report Share Posted February 7, 2012 I am too going with the National Luna setup along with a battery tray. I may have it installed by Shaver, not sure.. but could bring it along for people to check out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MichaelBeaver Posted February 7, 2012 Report Share Posted February 7, 2012 Here is what I did: T-Max (Westin) Battery Management - 124$ : http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FEY-47-3800/ Sears PM-1 Group 34 Batteries - These are OEM Odyssey Batteries (2) - 219$ ea: http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_02850034000P?prdNo=16&blockNo=16&blockType=G16Columbia Overland Aluminum Dual Battery Tray - 150$: http://www.columbiaoverland.com/product/discovery-ii-dual-battery-tray Been running this config for a year now with no issues. The T-Max Battery management system is a South African brand that has a good rep over in SA and for 124$ is a steal. The battery cables that come with the kit are a little "wonky" so we replaced those with more sturdy cables. I also ended up doing a slight modification to the body near the radiator as the fold of the body rubbed on one of the batteries.... I will upload a pic later of the install... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KSuttle Posted February 7, 2012 Report Share Posted February 7, 2012 As for batteries. Whatever brand comes stock in the LR3 is AMAZING. My 2005 still has the original battery which is supposed to be an 8 year battery. I will probably replace before DV. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BradS Posted February 19, 2012 Report Share Posted February 19, 2012 Hi All,This is my first post to any forum here at the club. Just getting into it. For the dual battery kit, managing your DC electricity, etc, I have been researching, and trying and succeeding (some what..) it for years. And, truly, there is not better way to go than Kodiak Industries: http://www.kodiakinc.com. Every time I am there, which is numerous times, there is always a vehicle that belongs to an editor from one of the major Off Road magazines there. The owner, Yawan (yes spelled right), know his stuff amazingly. A great thing about him, is that his shop is in Gilroy on the way to Hollister. I asked, and he said he would love for to have the club stop by on any monthly MORG and check out his stuff. With that, before you buy anything, I would stop by and visit him. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NomaD110 Posted February 20, 2012 Report Share Posted February 20, 2012 I'll throw my two cents in here. In my Discovery I had two different types before settling on what I thought was the best which was the Painless system. One day however the solenoid failed. I was out in the middle of nowhere and it really sucked having no control over what was going on with the batteries. From that day forward I decided that I would never let a piece of tech run my trucks life line again. In the Defender I installed a manual disconnect that either hooks together or isolates the two batteries. Is a big red handle switch...idiot proof and won't ever fail. It's super simple can pass huge amounts of current and did I say can't fail. Here are the situations as to why you need an isolator:1) truck is running and you are charging both batteries (hook together)2) truck is off and you are running accessories and don't want to drain your starting batteries (isolate)3) you have drained your primary battery or it failed and you need to start off the accessory battery (hook together and pull the negative off the starting battery so it doesn't draw current). Always bring an emergency booster anyway. The kind of traveling I like to do with my rover makes me dread unessasary gizmotry. This is also why I got a Defender in the first place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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