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alpaca

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Posts posted by alpaca

  1.  Discussion Starter â€¢ #1 â€¢  a moment ago
     
    Went to start the rover this morning... it cranked for 10 seconds then finally started ... ran rough, smelt of fuel, check engine light flashed on then off, hdd fault, transmission fault F code in display. I shut it down. Tried a restart and it would only crank. Got out the odb2 reader .. showed 2 pending codes .. p0118 (apparently coolant temp sensor error) and u2023p. Thermostat body had been replaced about 2 years ago.. so hard to believe the coolant sensor had failed. I pulled the engine cover off .. and saw the mouse had been chewing the insulation from the cover ... after I cleaned that up, I saw wiring damage on one of the wires that runs along the top left side of the engine (as you are looking at it from the front) ... pulled he connector and soldered a bit of spare wire in to fix the break... rover started right up and seems to run normal now .... off to the hardware store to get some mouse traps !

    2006 Range Rover sport hse 4.4 na 

  2. The 4 ramp trick worked for oil change -  not needed though - off road height is good enough. I found out the same for rear diff - off road height and slide under the car from passenger side rear. Fluid change was pretty easy. Filled to spec with 500ml lab syringe from Amazon. Old fluid with about 45k miles on it still looked pretty good. Some gunk and metal particles on mag drain plug - but also not too bad:  will add pic when I’m on my other computer.

  3. I'm going to do diff fluid change on my RR Sport ... access under the vehicle in off road height is OK for oil change, but would like a little more for this job. Have people here driven the vehicle up onto 4 Rhino Ramps to do jobs like this ? Seems like it should be feasible. Also, for you Lr3 owners - I see some people that just fill until fluid comes out of the fill hole .. but LR recommendation is to use the exact fill amount specified - I have a syringe to measure out the correct fill level - how critical is that ? Going to try the FUCHs Titan 75W90 that is listed as alternative to Castrol. Will report back how good/bad my old fluid looked after 50K ....

  4. Recently started in bbc America - Chris Harris is main presenter now - the new team work really well together - I think almost as good as clarkson and co. Anyway / they have a Nepal special episode you can stream on Comcast - while not landrovering it is mostly off road and pretty funny / cool .... enjoy
  5. Fitted new front shocks and rear valve block .... hopefully no more saggy bottom after parking for a week !
     

    (BTW - I drove past small shop on hwy 9 in Los Gatos - and saw the guy working on a P38 - asked if he can do my Sport - and he said "sure"  - I had ordered the parts - but did not fancy to tackle in the drive way, He said the shocks were easy - but rear valve block was a b*tch). Seems to have done a good job and price was fair. If anyone wants the shop recommendation in Los Gatos - PM me. 

  6. I have the '06 - I did get a set of 18" wheels and AT tires - which would maybe make it even better on the trails - but I didn't;t get a chance to try that yet ! Our of the box with stock 19" Pirelli's it was already pretty good - Brenton only had to pull me out of the sand once ! Locking diff would be nice - but hard to find - and the electronic brake locker works pretty well. And, yes Ac blows cold, Harman stereo is good -  and you can drive ant 85MPH+ to the events in comfort. Johnson rods are available for these also to give you 2" extra lift - and remove the front spoiler lip for offloading - gives you more clearance. 

     

    I would get the 4.4ltr 06-09 - model however - 300HP is more than enough. SC engine has more issues , and the early 5.0l engine '10-'12 also had major timing chain issues which is expensive to repair. Budget to replace the air shocks, rebuild compressor, and lower control arms (front) at around 100K miles - and you will have a good and pretty reliable rig ... 

     

    You can see some pretty nice looking '07-'09's for under $10K these days ... 

  7. I have an '06 HSE ... general consensus is to avoid the super charged one ... 

     

     

    Pros

     

     Generally reliable, like LR3, 4.4 Jag engine is bullet proof

     Capable off road - been on number of club events - better than you think - ultimate limit is ground clearance 

     ZF Transmission also seems to be good for 150K miles + - just make sure fluid was changed at ~75K

     Highway ride is conformable - you can cruise at 90 all day ... well at least for a couple of hours before the gas runs out ... 

     You can find an '08-'09 for a pretty good price at around 100K miles - try to get one with good service records

     

    Cons

     

     Dealer is expensive - but DIY is mostly easy, and there are some Indies around. Basic stuff can be done at any mechanic shop

     Brake job not too expensive if you go with OE parts (like Padgid) v dealer

     Suspension components will be worn at 100K - plan to have to replace front control arms and maybe air springs/shocks 

     Fuel economy in city is lousy - (12-14 MPG) and highway not much better 17-18MPG 

     Handling is not that sporting - for a sport - lots of body roll - but OK - avoid the active roll bars - expensive to fix when they inevitably break.  Performance is adequate - but not that fast. 

     Electrics can act up - I had to replace alternator - CD is broken, heating divert flaps broken, etc. 

     Sunroofs leak , dashes crack with age, clear coat  starting to peel in places 

     

    Major things I've had to replace (other than standard service items)

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