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Spare tire jerry can holder


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I was looking on the web for some way to mount a spare jerry can for fuel for my disco that doesnt have a roof rack. The only thing I can find is a bracket that mounts to the lug nuts on your spare tire

 

http://offroadrecovery.zoovy.com/category/.blitzjerrycansandacc/

http://static.zoovy.com/img/offroadrecovery/W180-H180-Bffffff/conn_ferr_tire_adapter.jpg

 

To make this work I would need longer studs so they would reach the bracket, yadda, yadda, yadda. My concern is the spare tire carrier itself if it can support the weight. It looks to be made of stamped steel and bolted pretty good to the rear cargo door but I dont know if there is a weight limit on the bracket. Just looking for some foodback or if there is a better solution out there.

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I tried one of those but it doesn't fit through the DII wheel hub. Ended up making my own.

 

http://www.myrovers.com/wordpress/Upload/Photos/Previous%20Rovers/2001%20DII/3-17-2006/02P3172388.jpg

 

This is the concept. The plate is held in place by the tire. The rods stick out through the wheel spokes. The can holder attaches to the rods.

 

http://myrovers.com/wordpress/Upload/Photos/Reference%20Pics/Freelander/Freelander%20Tech/Freelander%20Gas%20Can%20Carrier/11.jpg

 

http://myrovers.com/wordpress/Upload/Photos/Reference%20Pics/Freelander/Freelander%20Tech/Freelander%20Gas%20Can%20Carrier/10.jpg

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My concern is the spare tire carrier itself if it can support the weight. It looks to be made of stamped steel and bolted pretty good to the rear cargo door but I dont know if there is a weight limit on the bracket. Just looking for some foodback or if there is a better solution out there.

 

Rocky up in Fernley developed a crack in his tire carrier after having the jerry can & holder (Gary's design I think) and a 265/75R16 mounted. YMMV.

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One gallon of gas weighs a little over 6 lbs. So you're looking at 30 lbs. plus the weight of the Jerry can. I was thinking of mounting a Jerry can in the same position, but I too am concerned about the additional weight and stress on the carrier.
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I did not have a problem with the weight, but then I always took the can off when I didn't need to carry it. So it was only on during off road trips that might require extra fuel. If you like the look with it on, just carry the can empty. Plus you don't really want to temp the gas thieves with $25 worth of gold back there.
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After doing some more research. Looks like a few people are having the issue with the spare tire carrier failing (bending, cracking) but as far as I can tell none of them have any damage to the vehicle themselves which was my concern. Majority of these are people have a diff brand of SUV and not land rover specifically. And also most those people have a lock on their cans and keep it full and mounted pretty much all the time. I just called my local pick and pull and they did have a spare tire carrier from a 04 disco that they will sell me for $30. Might be worth picking one up just in case.

 

An idea I had was obviously the failure of the tire carrier was due to the weight of the tire and can pulling it down, was to make some type of support bracket.

 

I drew up this little picture in MS Paint because I dont have autocad and yes it's not to scale :) What I was thinking is have the support bracket attach on the back of the spare tire bracket, have 1 or 2 support posts drop down and meet up with another bracket that will have neoprene (hell even a sponge) or some type of soft material on the back as to not scratch the paint at the bottom. Bottom bracket wont need fasterners because the weight of the tire and jerry can will hold it in place, and use a large piece of metal for the bottom bracket to spread the load over a wide area as not to damage the rear cargo door.

 

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2277/2459076973_91270ea33c_o.jpg

 

Probably more work then what it's worth and a crappy idea, but I can't afford a safety devices rack right now :(

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  • 8 months later...

I think so.....That whole discussion of aluminum vs. steel, having one vs. not....

 

Mine is aluminum. I have HD steering stuff, except steering link...

 

If I hit it, sure it doesn't slide...however, I stop and reset my track then. If it was a slider/rear skid plate I could see the difference.....

 

It does not slide as well as steel, but I RARELY am sliding with my nose..if I am, I have some additional issues. It was on my truck when I got it, and it has warned me a few times to watch out.....

 

A lift will do you more, but the skid plate will sure help with a bow wake, making noise BEFORE you go over something to tall and most likely causing you to stop and find out why....

 

my thoughts.

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the front skids look cool but i'd go with HD steering links first if it were my money. esp, if you're going to add bigger tires, which add more stress to the links. of course you've seen all the bent up stock tie rods on the net. IMO, you'd get more for your money that way than the skid.
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Those guards really do cost $479 from the dealer. $200 is a very good price if you want one.

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Despite a lot of objections I still went ahead and bought it and should be delivered to me friday. I agree with Mike's opinion and felt the same way he did. For me at least $200 is worth the piece of mind of having some protection and it's something I can do myself (I hope). I have plans to get the HD steering stuff, but have them installed when I have my lift installed. I dont feel like I have the skills to tackle that kind of stuff yet. cuz more then likely the tires would be pointing in the wrong direction :)

 

Plus it was cheap enough if for some reason I have a change of heart and decide not to use it, I can probably sell it for more then what I paid for it and use that money for other things :)

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Objections? From who? About what? You will be happy with it, it's a nice piece.

 

Some of the concerns that I have read is the guards can sometimes get in the way and would cause you to get stuck or hungup, would cause the engine to run hotter due to restricted airflow, also it can turn into a plow if you get stuck and have to be pulled backwards, and also the steel version would be much better. I would love to have been able to afford a steel version but right now for the price of a steel guard, I could buy this one plus 2 QT diff guards (which are next on the list). I think in the end i'll be happy with it. One less thing for me to have to worry about :)

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I think you made the right decision in getting the guard.

 

Rebutal...

1) There is nothing down there to cool

2) If you get hung up you at least saved your steering parts and can drive home after your buddies unhang you.

3) The axles will be more of a "plow" type restriction than the guard will ever be.

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Chris, I think you'll like it. I had one on my DII before Gold Lake and it took a real beating there - now just scrap aluminum. Never had any overheating issues or any of that. It won't fully protect the drag link and track rods but will give you warning they are in jeopardy. I liked it enough that I installed the RTE steering guard when I did added their front bumper.
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Just picked up my guard from Fedex today. I ripped the box apart like a 5 year old during christmas :)

 

Def happy with it. It's a thick, heavy, beefy piece. I am going to paint the brackets to add a layer of rust protection and hope to have it installed before Saturday. Ill post some pics :)

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Here is the guard itself

 

http://i443.photobucket.com/albums/qq158/audisportracer/DSC_3144.jpg

 

The brackets were galvanized metal, they werent wrapped or protected so they slid around during shipping and got pretty scratched up. As most of you know, where galvanized metal get's scratch, it was start rusting on that scratch. I wet sanded the brackets with vinegar to etch the surface to get it ready for pant and got it primed. I used rust-oleum professional primer and paint.

 

Here are the brackets nice and primered

 

http://i443.photobucket.com/albums/qq158/audisportracer/DSC_3146.jpg

 

I already layed the first light coat of black paint and they are lookin shiney :)

 

Probably more work than necessary especially for a part that won't be seen, but I am anal and have to pay attention to the details, plus it's fun :)

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Nice Chris!

 

Also good tip on paint prep and add'l paint protection by the way.

 

And opinions and suggestions are just that - and it's up to you to make the final call. And for the price you paid for $200, and what it will protection, it's a good deal.

 

Like I am in the market for a winch; I'm looking at the new Superwinch LP8500 for my new 1990 Range Rover Classic (RRC); priced just right for me @ $399; figured it's a good name brand and the price is entry level.

 

It's not the Husky 10 some folks recommend (kind of like me recommendation steel vs alum) and I would if the price is right for my budget for a Husky 10, but in reality they cost $1800 new (funny, that's way more than I paid for the truck or RRC in itself).

 

Anyways, keep us posted on you mods; looking good thus far.

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