Wendy Stevens Posted May 27, 2018 Report Share Posted May 27, 2018 I have a 06 lr3 and the eas is just trash. I’m thinking on the Atlantic British +2 coilover covertion kit?! But I still want to use my proud rhino bump stop spacers with them!? Has anyone did or tried this?! Is this possible?! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wendy Stevens Posted May 28, 2018 Author Report Share Posted May 28, 2018 Somebody!? Anybody!? Any thoughts!? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DHappel Posted May 28, 2018 Report Share Posted May 28, 2018 I suppose the question is what is your goal? Are you trying to get more lift? The bump stop spacer kit is really just a spring spacer so stacking it on top of the coil conversion should give an extra 2" of lift but it's a pretty ghetto way to get there. I've written extensively here about why I don't like the current spring conversion kits as they don't meet my particular needs. Luke did basically what you're talking about in that he swaped his LR3 to coils then to get lift he made some spacers and put them under the spring buckets. It worked, but I don't think even he'd recommend it for a driver. If you want coils instead of air, and you want a lift, rumor has it L8 is working on a true coil-over kit for the LR3 along with RCV half shafts that should be able to handle the loads and angles of running lifted. If/when this happens (ideally with longer control arms too) that's about the only spring conversion I'd seriously consider. There are many caveats though pending seeing the final product. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DHappel Posted May 28, 2018 Report Share Posted May 28, 2018 BTW, it looks like you're not local so you probably didn't realize a lot of the club was out at an event this weekend. Not to mention it was a holiday weekend so certainly not much traffic around here the last couple days. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wendy Stevens Posted May 29, 2018 Author Report Share Posted May 29, 2018 Yes the extra inches is what Im going for. So in my mind if I go with the +2 coil overs and still run my bump stop spacers I'll be around 4 inches taller than the factory standard ride hight?! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wendy Stevens Posted May 29, 2018 Author Report Share Posted May 29, 2018 Naw I'm not local and it's like I'm the only one with a rover around here. On top of that this is my first one. The air ride system is going crazy. Iv researched everything I could and checked every thing and it's like nothings wrong. But I keep getting faults and the truck will rise and lower on its own and some times the right rear will just drop all the way. And some times the whole truck drops. No leaks any where. And I was thinking about just going with coil overs to just rid of all the head pounding and avoid taking it to a dealer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DHappel Posted May 29, 2018 Report Share Posted May 29, 2018 How many of your problems were present before vs after you installed the bump stop spacers? I tried them and pulled them back off because they caused issues. Others have had the same experience. I personally don't recommend them for this very reason. There's a lot more we need to get into here but I don't have the time this morning. I'll try to pick this up tonight when I have a free hour or so. We'll want to know why you have the bump kit now, what size tire are you running, how much lift are you running now (rods? GAP iiD?), what sort of armor/extra weight are you running, etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DHappel Posted May 29, 2018 Report Share Posted May 29, 2018 Hey Mods - can you combine Wendy's two threads? Will be easier if it's all in one instead of spread over two threads. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wendy Stevens Posted May 29, 2018 Author Report Share Posted May 29, 2018 Had no problems before. Iv had my lr3 for two years and put the prould rhino 2.5 rods and lucky 8 bump stop spacers kit on it about a month after I got it. The 2.5 rods for lift and clearance. The bump stop spacers to keep it from going into access mode and sitting down on the tires. And the straps to keep it from flexing out and binding the cv axles on down travel. All was great for ab 2 years now. I'm running a 32 tire right now. No extras no added weight. I never pulled a heavy load. Just a my kids kart on a old jet ski trailer. No hard off raoding. Just rough roads, light mud. some water play like crossing the creak. Just your average all around family, fishing and light trails. Nothing extrem Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wendy Stevens Posted May 30, 2018 Author Report Share Posted May 30, 2018 About 2 weeks ago the amber fault light came on. The right rear started dropping all the way down. I thought I had a leak. But no leak. A few days went by and it did it again. Ever other time now the whole truck drops and the red fault light comes on. And i get the vehicle will raise when it cools note. I have to pull over and wait ab 15-20 mins before it will raise. It can sit in the drive for 12-15 hrs over night and never leak down or drop. On my 4x4 display the right rear is traveling up and down. The only code Im getting is c1a24. No temperature reading when compressor requested Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DHappel Posted May 31, 2018 Report Share Posted May 31, 2018 OK, let's try to address this one step at a time. First, I don't think you really need the bump stop kit. I run a 33" tire on my LR3 and although it will rub some, it is drivable on the bumpstops without the kit installed. Unless you are running wheel spacers or something else I'm not seeing, all you should need is some basic trimming and you should be able to at least make headway on the bumpstops should it come to that. And trust me, spacer kit or no, you will not want to drive on the bumpstops as it's utterly miserable. I've seen that kit cause problems, particularly with ride and with the suspension thinking it's bottomed out when you try to lower it, causing it to bounce back up to extended mode. I don't recommend it. I've been toying with cutting mine up and making it about 1" tall and trying it that way to see how it does. Next, I'd love to see how you installed your limit straps. I've tried to install them on 2 trucks and both times they simply did not fit at all. Particularly at the rear. There was no way to install them that wouldn't rub against the wheel. In the front they were installed with the bracket under a hard 90* load instead of in-line, and I've heard a number of people comment that this led to bending/breaking the bracket. If you get a chance, I'd love to see some pics of what you've done. However, it does not sound like the kit is the cause of your problems. Have you pulled codes with a GAP tool or similar? Something more advanced than the typical generic OBD2 readers? That might help as it gives a lot more info. If you don't have a GAP iiD tool, I highly recommend it as does pretty much everyone who's ever tried it. From your description it sounds like you may have 2 issues going on. First the comment about the truck will raise after cooling off. That sounds like the compressor is running too long and overheating. You can force this to happen if you run it from access to off-road height a few times in a row for example. However it shouldn't happen in normal use. If it is then we have to ask why it's running that much. The two likely issues are a leak or the compressor itself is faulty and not building pressure, thus running a long time. Which compressor do you have? AMK or Hitatchi? If the early version, the Hitatchi, then look at one of the rebuild kits on Amazon. For about $100 you can rebuild every component of the compressor: replace the descant, replace the crack-prone plastic dryer cover w/metal, re-ring the compressor piston, replace the dust filter, etc. It's not a particularly hard job. An easy afternoon's work. If you have the later AMK then unfortunately I'm not aware of any service parts for them. The 2nd point you mention is seeing one strut showing up/down movement a lot but not seeing the truck sag when parked overnight. This makes me think that corner's ride height sensor or it's wiring harness is faulty. You're back east I see, so corrosion is a problem you'll have that we don't have here in the west. We rarely have harness problems with the sensors but other area like you do. Both the sensor and a short pig-tail harness are available from places like AB. I want to say it's about $100. If you have a GAP tool, you could graph the indicated up/down movement of the corners while you drive and see if you are getting spurious readings that would indicate a faulting sensor/wiring. If you replace a sensor, you'll need to re-calibrate ride height. This is another job for your GAP iiD tool. They have a pretty good description of how to do it and if you email them, they'll even send you a nice spreadsheet to use so you don't have to do any math. Just plug in your measurements and it will tell you what values to use. On to the coil conversions. Since you don't have any armor or heavy gear on your truck, the +2" coil conversion will give you basically the same height as driving around in stock off-road height full time. This should be the same as what you have now except you won't have the ability to raise it above that like you do with your rods + air suspension. There really isn't a way to get that much lift with coils unless you do as you initially asked and put spacers on top of the coils. However I wouldn't recommend this. It's going to have you full time at a very high lift, which means the truck will be less stable on the road, have a narrower track, be running the CVs at a pretty severe angle 100% of the time, etc. I've not done coils on my truck despite using it harder off-road than most. If L8 successfully brings out a proper coil-over conversion with height adjustability and the ability to compensate for weight (my truck is very heavy with steel bumpers f/r, full skids, sliders, winch, big tires, yada yada yada) then I may consider it. But as things sit currently even the +2" kit would only get me to about stock ride height due to the extra wight of my truck. Not acceptable for the way I use it. It sounds like you're not using the truck in anything technical off road, just some light dirt roads, etc. I would think you'd be fine with the +2" coil kit if you do decide to go that way. As to how well the coil kits work, I've read wildly differing opinions. Some people love it and say they have no loss of ride quality or off road ability. Others claim it's terrible, they have warning lights on the dash full time, the ride is poor, and the terrain response doesn't work properly. With no intention of running one myself I haven't looked deeply into it so can't comment with any authority here. Hopefully this gives you a little info to digest. Sorry I didn't get to this sooner but you know...life. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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