sasquatch Posted March 22, 2012 Report Share Posted March 22, 2012 That's looking suspiciously like a pre-fab yard Pedram....hmmmm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lutz Posted March 22, 2012 Report Share Posted March 22, 2012 That looks great .I like the added reinforcements.Now my to do list just got bigger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Pedram Posted March 22, 2012 Report Share Posted March 22, 2012 I don't know who "pre-fab" is but yeah it's me P-fab. I didn't take any pictures if the blasted legs. It was a blast! I'm blasted! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Pedram Posted March 22, 2012 Report Share Posted March 22, 2012 That looks great .I like the added reinforcements.Now my to do list just got bigger. If only I had my disco up. I will add that to my list as well. Thank Breton for this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Pedram Posted March 23, 2012 Report Share Posted March 23, 2012 Oh.... Brenton.... lets see it mounted!!! I like what you have done with the bars. You were right to add two supports to each side. It actually works well with the SD rack design. I'm glad you liked the final result. It was a pain to fix all the little minor rusty patches. I didn't think they would be so bad since there were powder coated and made professionally. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Disco2Guy Posted March 25, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 25, 2012 On Friday the rack got the Marine Clean, then Prep and Ready treatment. It was pretty straight forward, just be sure to wipe off the excess residue from the Prep and Ready once dry. After the rack was dry the first coat of POR15 was applied. It goes on pretty well and self levels like a dream. Here are some tips to using this paint. 1. After opening the lid, immediately use pieces of tape around the rim. If any paint is on the lip when stored, you won't be able to remove the lid next time.2. Definitely use another container for painting. This is when having the tape around the rim is good. Use a small cup to fill you paint container, and you won't have to worry about dripping paint on the lip.3. Wear gloves! If you get this stuff on your hands it'll stay there for weeks. I did find that heavy scrubbing with a green Scotch pad will remove paint (got some on me during cleanup) but it tears up your skin. If it's totally dry this may not work. However there were a few hiccups. I filled a smaller plastic container to dip the brush into, the last bit of paint was a little frothy (I guess) and the bubbles didn't pop. The paint dried with a rough surface in these areas (the paint is normally glossy and very smooth). The other issue is that some of the paint ran down the tubing after I went inside and dried lumpy. I've emailed the makers of POR 15 about these two issues in hope there's a somewhat easy fix. Here are some updated pics. I don't have any of the trouble areas, but will get some before my next step. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Pedram Posted March 25, 2012 Report Share Posted March 25, 2012 Wow! Nice! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Disco2Guy Posted April 2, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 2, 2012 Small update for today. I got a chance to address some of the drips and bubbles in the paint. I used a utility knife to remove the drips (thanks Pedram), and 320 grit sandpaper on the bubbles (recommended by the makers of POR-15). The drips were like Rice Krispies on the inside and they were easy to cut off. The sandpaper worked pretty well to smooth out the paint. It wasn't as tough as I thought it would be but will take some time to get it where I want. A small block of wood under the sandpaper worked well to smooth the rougher areas and saved some wear on my fingers. No pics now, but I'll get some after the sanding is complete. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ColinB Posted April 2, 2012 Report Share Posted April 2, 2012 I got to see that rack today. Where the Paint went on well it looked great, once Brenton gets the rough spots painted it will look better than new. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Disco2Guy Posted May 14, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 14, 2012 Today the underside got the second coat of POR-15, and the Chassis Coat on top. It seemed thinner with more of a lacquer smell. It's already dry to the touch whereas the POR-15 stayed tacky for a longer time. This round of painting I tried a 2" foam brush instead of the bristle hair. Initially I thought the foam brush could cause more bubbles, but so far there it's not too bad. The best thing about the foam brush is no loose hairs. Next time I will cover the top side of the rack. It was difficult to tell which sections were already covered with the Chassis Coat and which sections were still tacky with POR-15. Because of this, and the fact that the POR-15 is NOT UV stable, I will do a final coat of Chassis Coat in a rattle can. The fronts of the 8 mounting feet got a first coat of POR-15. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Disco2Guy Posted May 25, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 25, 2012 The rack is finally finished, and on the truck! What a relief to finally have this project over with. The paint job isn't as perfect as I hoped, but it'll work. Now the real test is the long term durability of the POR-15 against ratchet straps, trees, and the sun. There are still a few drips that occurred when applying the 2nd coat of POR-15 and top coat, but I can live with it. For anyone considering this job, you'll want to allow plenty of time and space. Here are some pics I just took out in the parking lot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Pedram Posted May 25, 2012 Report Share Posted May 25, 2012 Now all you need to do is buy a few of my pelican cases to finish up the complete offroad project. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomOwen Posted May 26, 2012 Report Share Posted May 26, 2012 Congrats B! Thanks again for the good advice on my build. Cheers, TO Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LandRonB Posted May 26, 2012 Report Share Posted May 26, 2012 Nice work B. Worked well also for frame and floor board coating/rust preventive. I powerwashed, and sanded the surface rust on the frame of my 1990 RRC; then painted it w/POR-15. So far so good, looking good! Then removed all the interior carpet, seats... and then painted POR-15 the floor. Put carpet and seats back. So far so good, solid product. No paint chipping. Paint really bonds to the metal. I have one extra quart POR-15 in black (brand new in a can); retail cost $47.50 + tax + $7.95 shipping (close to $60 total). Willing to selling it to a club member for $40 and no shipping cost or tax (U pick it up next time we are @ Mexxis for lunch/dinner). Will post it in the for sale forum. PM me if interested. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Posted June 2, 2012 Report Share Posted June 2, 2012 Looks great Brenton. Might be looking to redo my SD rack soon and this is a great help Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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