phobucket Posted March 26, 2018 Report Share Posted March 26, 2018 I do like the low-profile look of that rack. The rear looks a lot like my Urban Offroad but I don't have that wrap around wind fairing at the front.I took it out on the freeway yesterday. This is as close as you can get to a wind-noise free roof rack. Hopefully the low profile will allow me to navigate Oakland's parking garages even when I move to a taller tire. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jethro Posted March 26, 2018 Report Share Posted March 26, 2018 I took it out on the freeway yesterday. This is as close as you can get to a wind-noise free roof rack. Hopefully the low profile will allow me to navigate Oakland's parking garages even when I move to a taller tire. Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkWhat brand is it? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phobucket Posted March 26, 2018 Report Share Posted March 26, 2018 Prospeed. It is available in the US through Lucky8, but you will need to have short rails on your LR3/LR4 first. The cost between the rack, shipping, and getting the roof rails was definitely high, but I am in parking garages all of the time. If you don't have a similar constraint, I'd consider something else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdvRovr Posted March 26, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 26, 2018 That is a *VERY* good looking fairing. Wow. phobucket 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phobucket Posted March 26, 2018 Report Share Posted March 26, 2018 Looks great, what rack is that? Like the sliders...tactical rovers? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Yes. They are TR. I moved them from my LR3 to my LR4. Heavy, but highly recommended. Jethro 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phobucket Posted March 27, 2018 Report Share Posted March 27, 2018 Front Runner ladder installed. Now I have a place to hang the trasharoo. DHappel and Jethro 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DHappel Posted March 28, 2018 Report Share Posted March 28, 2018 I like my FR ladder as well - inexpensive, easy to install, and has held up well over the years. I give it two thumbs up. phobucket and Jethro 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JFuller Posted April 2, 2018 Report Share Posted April 2, 2018 Had to spend some time giving Mr. Lucas some love on the P38. It's the wife's daily driver and we were getting some error messages on the dash that were intermittent and troubling. Gearbox fault, traction failure, airbag failure... To make matters worse on wednesday afternoon Ted was at my place and as we were walking by the car the electric brake booster pump cycled. I thought that my wife had left the key in the ignition again, she has been known to do this. Upon inspection i found no key, but power to a few systems, the SRS light illuminated and the Air Suspension lights on the dash (i'm running springs and the air suspension has been disabled since we bought the vehicle). At first I thought it was the fuse box in the engine compartment, as they are a known failure point on the P38 due to heat and placement directly behind the battery. The previous owner had replaced the fuse box with a gently used unit years ago and when I removed all the relays and fuses it looked in good shape. Ted was kind enough to lend me his fuse box out of his P38 and when I plugged it in everything worked so naturally I thought the problem was isolated to the fuse box. I removed the fuse box and completed the repair procedure I found online which involved pulling the fuse box apart, cutting all the connecting pins between the two haves of the board, re-flowing some solder on some joints that had cracked, then removing all the connecting pins I had cut and replacing/resoldering them. The whole procedure took me about 4-5 hours and I had the whole thing back in the car and out for a test drive by 11:30 pm. Sadly, about a mile down the road all my issues came back. This was Wednesday night. I went to work, very tired on Thursday trying to imagine what could have gone wrong. Thursday night I got home and started tearing it apart again. I hypothesized that I had an ignition switch failure allowing some of the accessories to stay energized. So i tore apart the steering column cover and unplugged the switch. But, as you may have guessed, nothing changed. I still had power to a few systems which should have been off. Notably, when I pulled the relay for the keyed accessories out of the fuse box all power was removed from the offending system. So I thought a bad relay. Tried a new one, nope, same issue. So I took to the internet to begin the electrical troubleshooting procedure I found on Range Rovers.net. My battery is less than a year old and hasn't ever showed signs of slowing down, no corrosion noticed on the terminals, it multimetered out fine at 12.6V and was load tested at my local NAPA autoparts a month ago when the faults arrived and showed good. I tested the alternator and it was running bewteen 14.1 and 14.4 V so I figured i had good charging. The trouble shooting procedure recommended that I check voltage drop along my power and ground cables and nothing should be more that 120mV. I found along my ground cable a drop of almost 0.4V. Hummm. Perhaps some dirty connections? I was under the impression that it connected in three locations, at the battery, at the shock tower and at the alternator case. I began to systematically remove and check them. Battery looked good, alternator looked good, shock tower looked good. I cleaned each one and put them back together. As I was reconnecting the shock tower location i tugged on the ground cable a little to align the holes and I heard some relays in the fuse box cycle very quickly. ??!!?? So I tried again, and sure enough cycling relays. As it turns out, there is another ground location, mid span on the ground cable. Its on the fenderwell and behind the battery box, under a wire loom and the horn. The nut at that location had become loose, The ground stud was rusty so the nut couldn't back off but connection was very poor. It had caused enough heat to melt the insulation on some adjacent ground wires and the ground cable was pretty crusty. EUREKA!! I couldn't find a replacement cable at my usual local parts houses so in the interest of time I went to the dealer, because they could get it by saturday and it was the same price as the one offered on amazon. Interestingly only ground wires were affected. I inspected all the (+) wires and they were undamaged so I wasn't getting any sort of short. I replaced the ground cable, retouched the insulation on the other damaged ground wires and added some old garden hose as a chafe guard to the wiring loom. Torqued down all the ground points and, wouldn't you know, the P38 is happy once again. Electrical problems suck. DHappel 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DHappel Posted April 3, 2018 Report Share Posted April 3, 2018 What a joy....much easier to just get rid of all those new-fangled electrical gadgets don't you think? (says the man with an LR3...) Jethro 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jethro Posted April 3, 2018 Report Share Posted April 3, 2018 Nothing too exciting unless you are my wife...been a few years since a detail on the LR4 and our trip to Reno it really needed it plus the abuse from the kids... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk phobucket and lithium1330 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DHappel Posted April 3, 2018 Report Share Posted April 3, 2018 Man, and to think I'm too lazy to even hose the mud off my D1 from the last trip to PC. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jethro Posted April 3, 2018 Report Share Posted April 3, 2018 Man, and to think I'm too lazy to even hose the mud off my D1 from the last trip to PC.The Disco got cleaned up from the snow drifts... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
astateofmike Posted April 3, 2018 Report Share Posted April 3, 2018 From Friday.... snapped the parking brake cable. Ordered a new one and will soon learn to install. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DHappel Posted April 3, 2018 Report Share Posted April 3, 2018 From Friday.... snapped the parking brake cable. Ordered a new one and will soon learn to install.To quote that most luminous automotive commentator: How hard can it be? RedRover 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
astateofmike Posted April 3, 2018 Report Share Posted April 3, 2018 Yeah, I don't know. I guess I will find out. I may reach out to Club Sponsor CT Motorwerks for the "shade tree" or professional job? Then go from there. It looks pretty simple as it is a clevis on the lower end and as simple on the top end...BUT, it's not pre stretched (I didn't opt for that additional cost) and that may be the issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DHappel Posted April 3, 2018 Report Share Posted April 3, 2018 I've done it on the D1 when we did Graeme's underdrive. It's not that bad, but I can see where being pre-stretched may be helpful. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lithium1330 Posted April 29, 2018 Report Share Posted April 29, 2018 ok... it's been awfully quiet here... There is no way any Rover ran for almost a month without requiring its owner to do work on it... Today, I changed the oil in the transfer case - good news: oil has been in full for 2 yrs. So, no leaks! Better news - acceptable amount of metal shaving on the magnet. Also changed the front diff oil - fluid was dirty, but not rancid. I did not change the rear diff oil... b/c I'm on the fence about installing rear locker. :-/ Still on the fence as of this writing. Re-tighten down a few radiator hose clamps... finding drips when under pressure. Rad hoses hate me. Bc one end of the top hose still has a very slow drip. Also adjusted the passenger side door stay - door wouldn't stay open, and slams itself close in light breeze on its un-suspecting owner or spouse. My fix... shim it with a piece of ziptie. Yea... that's all it needed. Love the simple mechanical aspects of older trucks. RedRover and Jethro 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DHappel Posted April 29, 2018 Report Share Posted April 29, 2018 I finally got around to replacing the broken strut on the front of the LR3. This should be a simple job, but I managed to drop a nut that fell between the rotor and the dust shield - meaning I had to pull the caliper, caliper carrier, and rotor off to retrieve the silly nut! RedRover and Jethro 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jethro Posted April 29, 2018 Report Share Posted April 29, 2018 ok... it's been awfully quiet here... There is no way any Rover ran for almost a month without requiring its owner to do work on it... Today, I changed the oil in the transfer case - good news: oil has been in full for 2 yrs. So, no leaks! Better news - acceptable amount of metal shaving on the magnet. Also changed the front diff oil - fluid was dirty, but not rancid. I did not change the rear diff oil... b/c I'm on the fence about installing rear locker. :-/ Still on the fence as of this writing. Re-tighten down a few radiator hose clamps... finding drips when under pressure. Rad hoses hate me. Bc one end of the top hose still has a very slow drip. Also adjusted the passenger side door stay - door wouldn't stay open, and slams itself close in light breeze on its un-suspecting owner or spouse. My fix... shim it with a piece of ziptie. Yea... that's all it needed. Love the simple mechanical aspects of older trucks.I will have some lockers for sale... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jethro Posted April 29, 2018 Report Share Posted April 29, 2018 I had a big Rover day with @Don and my son. We happen to come across a RRC needing a new home. So was really fun and interesting to go up and make the purchase. Planning to use parts from the Disco to fix the classic and then sell the extra bits. My son is having a hard time with the thought of the Disco not working anymore. Meanwhile the nice guy who sold his pride and joy RRC had a difficult time letting it go. Anyway, now on to the new project... First order is the rear end...it's blown and so is the transfer case. Then I'll start tackling the other normal RRC quirks. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DHappel Posted April 29, 2018 Report Share Posted April 29, 2018 I will have some lockers for sale... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalkooh! How much for the crunchy one? (eager to see the inside of that unit actually) Jethro 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jethro Posted April 30, 2018 Report Share Posted April 30, 2018 ooh! How much for the crunchy one? (eager to see the inside of that unit actually)That might be the best deal!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk DHappel 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
astateofmike Posted April 30, 2018 Report Share Posted April 30, 2018 Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkLike that Front bumper. Part stock brush bar part Safariguard looking maybe RTE looking. Nice rig, great score. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DHappel Posted May 1, 2018 Report Share Posted May 1, 2018 I spent this evening cutting fenders back and installing new Terrafirma flares. Lucky8 claims they will fit 37s on a 5" lift. Lucky8 lies... Jethro 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jethro Posted May 1, 2018 Report Share Posted May 1, 2018 I spent this evening cutting fenders back and installing new Terrafirma flares. Lucky8 claims they will fit 37s on a 5" lift. Lucky8 lies...Fit vs flex? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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