Disco2Guy Posted August 28, 2012 Report Share Posted August 28, 2012 My weekends are pretty open in Sept. I may not know much about the job, but I can turn a wrench and lend an additional hand when needed. Let me know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SamO Posted August 28, 2012 Report Share Posted August 28, 2012 There's talk in another thread about a wrenching day (http://nclrclub.org/forum/showthread.php?1920-Any-defender-experts-out-there) on September 15th. Hopefully we can all meet together on the same day. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Pedram Posted August 28, 2012 Report Share Posted August 28, 2012 I might be doing mine sooner then that. I just need all my parts first. I don't think I have room where you are. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Disco2Guy Posted August 28, 2012 Report Share Posted August 28, 2012 This job, especially for the first time, will probably take more than a single day. Plan to take at least 2 days, so you'll need to park the Rover in an out of the way location, like your storage area. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Pedram Posted August 29, 2012 Report Share Posted August 29, 2012 Yeah my thoughts exactly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DiscoChef Posted August 29, 2012 Report Share Posted August 29, 2012 I might be able to lend a hand, depending on date chosen. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GraemeWare Posted August 29, 2012 Report Share Posted August 29, 2012 This job, especially for the first time, will probably take more than a single day. Plan to take at least 2 days.... The time is in the cleaning of the components. With a full (and clean) dip-tank parts washer, and two people (one to wash, one to wrench), provided you know what you're doing and don't do valve stem oil seals, then you're looking at a full 4 hours going full speed .... For info., two D2s that I've done recently, working on my own, having to stop and do other things then carry on later, clean everything myself, took 21 man hours (this was the "polish it until it shines" version, and learning the V8 D2 special issues) and then 11-12 hours man hours for the next one (totally cleaning everything, but not surgical clean). The cleaning is at least 1/2 the time. With the right tools and a little less 'worry', a day is easily possible. Graeme Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Pedram Posted August 29, 2012 Report Share Posted August 29, 2012 Actually I am going to save a lot of time. I'm ordering the heads from John G. They are machined and clean. Almost new. I have to wait till Thursday to talk to him. But as soon as I get them I'm ready for everything. Graeme do you know a part number for the ARP head studs? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GraemeWare Posted August 29, 2012 Report Share Posted August 29, 2012 Actually I am going to save a lot of time. I'm ordering the heads from John G. They are machined and clean. Almost new. I have to wait till Thursday to talk to him. But as soon as I get them I'm ready for everything. Graeme do you know a part number for the ARP head studs? 124-4003 is what this box sitting on my desk says. Don't go direct to ARP, they will be more expensive as they do it by adding the parts together to make the kit. That kit has the 'extra' studs for the earlier motors (just leave them if you don't need them, or use them as spare exhaust studs). There was a place in Needles that both Dan and I used, but I think they are out of them now. I think Summit has them though. Regards, Graeme Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Pedram Posted August 29, 2012 Report Share Posted August 29, 2012 Is this it? http:// http://m.summitracing.com/parts/arp-124-4003/media Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomOwen Posted August 30, 2012 Report Share Posted August 30, 2012 Subscribing to watch for date. Happy to attend, wrench, watch and learn... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GraemeWare Posted August 30, 2012 Report Share Posted August 30, 2012 Is this it? http:// http://m.summitracing.com/parts/arp-124-4003/media Yes, sir. Ignore the year range ... Graeme Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benny Posted August 30, 2012 Report Share Posted August 30, 2012 let me know if i can help for as long as Sunday and Monday i can or maybe i will learn something from it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Pedram Posted August 30, 2012 Report Share Posted August 30, 2012 Okay ARP studs are shipping out today. I'm trying to get just the head gaskets from Atlantic British but they only offer the set with the OEM bolts as well. Which I don't need. I might just go to another site. Anyone know more on this? Looking for my application 95 disco 3.9L. 5speed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Disco2Guy Posted August 30, 2012 Report Share Posted August 30, 2012 Try RoversNorth, or British Parts of Utah. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benny Posted August 31, 2012 Report Share Posted August 31, 2012 Try Dave in Berkley his phone #510-548-8748 he has parts for land rovers and his price is reasonable. I buy my parts from him and if he cannot get that day the following day he will. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Pedram Posted August 31, 2012 Report Share Posted August 31, 2012 Brenton and Benny.... Thanks. I'm looking into it. I just got these.... http://i591.photobucket.com/albums/ss353/PedramB33/Disco%20Head/IMG_20120830_174829.jpg It took one day... at no extra charge. I'm 1/3 there. I need the heads from John Gadd and then my gaskets. I'm going to spend some time tomorrow finding the rest. I put a deposit on the heads just now. So I need to know when they ship here and give you guys a time frame. Thanks for helping out and giving referrals. I actually want to do a decent write up. So I'm going to tear into the heads slowly for pictures and documentation. But that should be the first time someone did this for a forum. I never see the details. I want to be the first. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Pedram Posted August 31, 2012 Report Share Posted August 31, 2012 These are what John tells me I'm getting. Well not these exact ones but close. Shinny!!!:cool: http://i591.photobucket.com/albums/ss353/PedramB33/Disco%20Head/P1010001.jpg http://i591.photobucket.com/albums/ss353/PedramB33/Disco%20Head/P1010058.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Pedram Posted September 7, 2012 Report Share Posted September 7, 2012 So I have this so far. Waiting on heads still. Those are being shipped out tomorrow. I have a little down time. http://i591.photobucket.com/albums/ss353/PedramB33/Disco%20Head/IMG_20120906_220221.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Pedram Posted September 7, 2012 Report Share Posted September 7, 2012 Where do I get torque specs on and sequence on ARP studs. Graeme??? And what do I need to know before and after?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GraemeWare Posted September 8, 2012 Report Share Posted September 8, 2012 Where do I get torque specs on and sequence on ARP studs. Graeme??? And what do I need to know before and after?? Pedram, Let me check this, but from memory, ARP says 80lbft and the book says 82lbft for studs 1-10 and there are varying opinions on the 11-14 (if you have them). Those are often cited as 40lbft, but I prefer 20 as they are doing nothing (and I don't want them 'helping' the others). Torquing order is center to outside in a criss-cross pattern, 'officially' advancing about 10lbs at a time. I prefer to do 5 at a time and just keep pulling it down evenly.I am surprised your head gasket didn't come with a little diagram in the packet (I can find one to scan if you need it). I hope you have the ARP assembly lube, but if not a good moly grease can be used (or at a push, engine oil, but there is a lot of validated evidence to show that the lube makes the torquing more even). When doing the studs, make sure you back them out of the head by 1/2 turn before putting the head on, and make sure the stud doesn't turn when you put the nut on (and are torquing it). Make absolutely certain the the hole is totally dry (no water down there) before you start. A small even smear of the lube is what is required on everything, not a ton. Personally, I actually back the stud out a complete turn, having got all the nuts down to 'pinch point', but that isn't the accepted way of doing it. Remember that the fine thread is on the nut side, so it is unlikely that the studs will move (if everything is clean). If you have to use tools to get the studs in or the nuts on (to pinch point) then you probably need to chase the threads first. Remember that with studs you can re-torque after running (but I normally don't). If you let me know your engine number I may have some other gems of info for you. Oh, and make sure that the block surface and heads are clean and DEGREASED before putting on the gasket. Regards, Graeme Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Pedram Posted September 9, 2012 Report Share Posted September 9, 2012 It looks like the heads are going to arrive soon. I'm thinking this Tuesday. So maybe Wednesday will be the day I pull the heads off. Anyone want to join? I'm going to see exactly when the heads arrive but in the mean time I'm going to keep an eye out. That would be sweet if I get them Tuesday. I might have a running truck this weekend. !!!! Yippy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Pedram Posted September 9, 2012 Report Share Posted September 9, 2012 Pedram, Let me check this, but from memory, ARP says 80lbft and the book says 82lbft for studs 1-10 and there are varying opinions on the 11-14 (if you have them). Those are often cited as 40lbft, but I prefer 20 as they are doing nothing (and I don't want them 'helping' the others). Torquing order is center to outside in a criss-cross pattern, 'officially' advancing about 10lbs at a time. I prefer to do 5 at a time and just keep pulling it down evenly.I am surprised your head gasket didn't come with a little diagram in the packet (I can find one to scan if you need it). I hope you have the ARP assembly lube, but if not a good moly grease can be used (or at a push, engine oil, but there is a lot of validated evidence to show that the lube makes the torquing more even). When doing the studs, make sure you back them out of the head by 1/2 turn before putting the head on, and make sure the stud doesn't turn when you put the nut on (and are torquing it). Make absolutely certain the the hole is totally dry (no water down there) before you start. A small even smear of the lube is what is required on everything, not a ton. Personally, I actually back the stud out a complete turn, having got all the nuts down to 'pinch point', but that isn't the accepted way of doing it. Remember that the fine thread is on the nut side, so it is unlikely that the studs will move (if everything is clean). If you have to use tools to get the studs in or the nuts on (to pinch point) then you probably need to chase the threads first. Remember that with studs you can re-torque after running (but I normally don't). If you let me know your engine number I may have some other gems of info for you. Oh, and make sure that the block surface and heads are clean and DEGREASED before putting on the gasket. Regards, Graeme Can I use brake cleaner and blow out holes in the motor with my CO2 tank? I think that would be a good way to get all the fluids out and keep things dry. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GraemeWare Posted September 9, 2012 Report Share Posted September 9, 2012 Can I use brake cleaner and blow out holes in the motor with my CO2 tank? I think that would be a good way to get all the fluids out and keep things dry. Yes, and yes. Also in your other post you were waiting for the heads. Unless you're still driving it, why not pull the old heads and do the clean-up now? I suggest using little plastic zip-lock lunch bags, and label them with a sharpie, to hold the bolts and other fasteners as they come out (otherwise you sit there wondering what went where afterwards). I've done it with and without .... and will always use those bags now. Graeme Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Pedram Posted September 9, 2012 Report Share Posted September 9, 2012 How many bags did you use? I guess I can. I just wanted to make sure I have everything in my hands before digging into it and finding out I'm missing parts. And on the other hand it would be nice to get something done faster. Okay If anyone is free to come down and video or watch I'm down. I want to document the work for the write up I wanted to make. So that might require a guy to watch and record. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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